Fifth wheel hitch recomendations

Try this web site

https://www.curtmfg.com/

Sun2Retire said:

From the video I've seen it looks to me like the Anderson's claim to fame is the gooseneck to fifth wheel conversion - is this the only style hitch they make? They make mention of a "rail" system, no idea what that is (is it the same as PUCK?).

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When they talk about the rail system, they use the same rails you would use on the conventional hitch. With the hitch removed, the rails are still bolted to the bed of the truck.

Rene T said:

When they talk about the rail system, they use the same rails you would use on the conventional hitch. With the hitch removed, the rails are still bolted to the bed of the truck.

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I think I've seen this. The floor's not absolutely flat but is essentially completely usable, correct? If I brought a truck into a fifth wheel hitch shop and asked for a hitch, is this likely the system they would install? And if yes, that puts us back in the 100# weight range of the removable portion of the hitch, correct?

Sun2Retire said:

I think I've seen this. The floor's not absolutely flat but is essentially completely usable, correct? If I brought a truck into a fifth wheel hitch shop and asked for a hitch, is this likely the system they would install? And if yes, that puts us back in the 100# weight range of the removable portion of the hitch, correct?

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Yes the bed is still usable. In fact, I purchased  a truck camper a few years ago and I had to cut some 5/4 boards to put on the bed to bring  the surface where the camper sat even with the top of the rails.
I think the 100# may be a little low. I use a come-a-long in my garage to get my Reese hitch out of the bed. I leave it suspended by the come-a-long until I need it again. There's no way I could ever think about removing mine by hand and I can break it down into 2 pieces.

Rene T said:

There's no way I could ever think about removing mine by hand and I can break it down into 2 pieces.

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As a fulltimer won't be a garage or come-a-long option so that's not good. The point of the rail is to allow easier removal, and it looks like some fore/aft adjustment?

Sun2Retire said:

As a fulltimer won't be a garage or come-a-long option so that's not good. The point of the rail is to allow easier removal, and it looks like some fore/aft adjustment?

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The rails run across the bed not lenght wise

Rene T said:

Yes the bed is still usable. In fact, I purchased  a truck camper a few years ago and I had to cut some 5/4 boards to put on the bed to bring  the surface where the camper sat even with the top of the rails.
I think the 100# may be a little low. I use a come-a-long in my garage to get my Reese hitch out of the bed. I leave it suspended by the come-a-long until I need it again. There's no way I could ever think about removing mine by hand and I can break it down into 2 pieces.

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  I understand exactly what you mean about lifting the hitch. 10 years ago, I could lift (not easily) my 20 K Reese in one piece.... in/out of the truck. Fast-forward and now, taken apart, it’s a bit heavy!

steveblonde said:

The rails run across the bed not lenght wise

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I meant left/right adjustment  :

History lesson.

For years, all FW hitches were attached to the bed with a pair of rails, secured to the bed of the truck.The rails are now pretty well standardized, meaning most hitches will work with most rails.  For a newer truck with the puck system, the rails attach to the pucks, which means they are more easily removed.  Fords with puck / gooseneck go back further than 2014.  Not sure how far.

Most conventional FW hitch weigh 200 # or more.  Most come apart into more easily maneuvered pieces.  Plus the weight of the rails.  They come in basic configurations, plus many upgrades including side to side movement, rubber dampers, air bags, different jaw configurations, etc.

Early gooseneck adapters were basically pipes that attached to the king pin and the gooseneck ball.  They placed way too much torque on the pin, causing issues.  Today, there are 3 gooseneck options I am aware of that attach to the ball, but do not torque the pin.  They are the Andersen Ultimate, that uses the pyramid base and a ball connection; the B&W Companion, which is a conventional style hitch, secured to the truck with the gooseneck ball, and a new system from Reese.  I am not too familiar with the Reese system past knowing it exists.

Hope this helps.

grashley said:

Hope this helps.

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Helps a lot, thx.

Won't be able to use them as by decision time I won't be in AZ, but there's a very reputable hitch shop about a mile from where I am. They do tow bars, FW hitches, custom welding, you name it. Think I'll wander down and have a chat one of these days

    Preacher,  Spot-on....you nailed it!    Especially, concerning the ?older? gooseneck adapters!

Revisiting this topic following discussions of Anderson issues in a different topic.
Who currently makes the lightest "standard" FW hitch (i.e., not a gooseneck conversion of any type like the Anderson or PullRite)?

Scott, when I was shopping back in 2015/2016, I seem to remember that http://www.etrailer.com had a lot of specs listed for every hitch including weights. This might be a good way to see a lot of them all at once and compare weights (and other features). Don't forget to add in the weight of the rail kit, too.

Joezeppy said:

Scott, when I was shopping back in 2015/2016, I seem to remember that http://www.etrailer.com had a lot of specs listed for every hitch including weights. This might be a good way to see a lot of them all at once and compare weights (and other features). Don't forget to add in the weight of the rail kit, too.

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Thx

I bought a slightly used Reese 15k slider for a great deal, $100.
It comes apart in two pieces. Total weight of both pieces is 120 pounds. I've lifted it in and out of the bed as a single unit, then remember that it comes apart. Doh!
Etrailer was a great resource to find a suitable hitch and then compare the options, including weight.