Dometic RV Fridge Check Light

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dplococo

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Joined
Jul 8, 2018
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A brand new Dometic refrigerator in our new (2018) rig quits after about 30 minutes on AC.  It appears to run fine on LP.  We've checked fuses and they are all good.  We're level.  It fires up just fine but stops working while hooked up to shore power. 

We've been reading up on faulty control boards or diminished juice from house battery. 

Any thoughts? 

Pam and Dave
 
Did you check the fuse located at the rear of the fridge?? It is skillfully hidden in the black box mounted on the rear of the fridge and is accessible through the outside vent door. It is usually designated F7, be careful it carries 120V. (5A, I seem to remember).
 
If the fridge works for 30 minutes on 120vac, it can't be that AC power fuse. And apparently can be re-started again later.

This begs the question of how it is determined that the fridge is "not working" in just 30 minutes.  Is there a fault condition (and if so, what?), or does it simply seem to be warming up (and 30 minutes isn't much time for that).  The topic title mentions a check light, but can it be cleared and restarted?  How do you get it going again after it stops working?  Please explain all this in more detail and maybe we can help.

 
If the fridge works for 30 minutes on 120vac, it can't be that AC power fuse.
Click to expand...

Why not? The fuse could have easily blown after 30 minutes of operation for any number of reasons!! It is not in play when on propane and it will force the fridge onto propane mode if blown.  I do not see in the description that the fridge was able to restart in electric mode. But I agree, a better description of the problem is probably required.
 
Here's more detail.  The refrigerator turns off (no power to the fridge) after some period of time when on auto (LP/AC) and plugged in to shore power. 

I would think it if it lost power (unplugged from shore power, blown fuse) for whatever reason, it would switch to LP but the refrigerator simply turns off. 

On LP only, it works fine.

We did switch shore power to another 20 amp outlet, thinking the first outlet might have had too much draw.  Refrigerator stayed on for almost 24 hours, then lost power again. 

And thanks to those who responded.  We are just in love with our new rig and want to be sure all systems are working correctly. 

Pam

Yes, 20 amp from our house.  I realize this is a 30 amp rig, but we're running just the refrigerator and an occasional indoor light.  We've never had issues while hooked up to our house 20 amp while we pack up for a trip, etc.  Plus it's only the refrigerator that loses power, not the lighted microwave, thermostat, etc. which are plugged in but not being used. 

The 5 amp fuse behind the refrigerator was checked and appears to be good.  When the check light comes on, it can be reset immediately.  I'm just wondering why the check light comes on in the first place.  And, if on auto, I would think the refrigerator would switch to LP when it loses electric. 

 
Why not? The fuse could have easily blown after 30 minutes of operation for any number of reasons!!
Click to expand...

My bad!  Upon re-reading, I see that he did NOT actually say it could be re-started in 120v mode, so I my comment was premature and possibly wrong.
 
I was going to say it can not be a fuse because from the Original post I get the feeling that if he turns it off and on it does it again and again

And I'm going to stand by that now that I think of it.

The reason.. IF the fuse was blown (The 120 volt fuse) it would not switch to AC. it would stay on GAS.

And if another fuse was toast. It would not work period. Or it would go immed to fault.
 
After lots of research and following your leads, we are assuming it is a bad circuit board.  The rig is under warranty, so I'm having someone come to my home to repair our refrigerator, even though it looks as though it is something we could likely solve. 

Thanks for all your helpful suggestions.

Pam and Dave
Newmar Bay Star Sport 2702
 
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