What supplies do i need for this project

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Hi,

I was curious how many boards i need for this project and other stuff i might need.  I have some 1/2 inch plywood already, about 3/4 of the 4x8 sheet left over.  And i have tons of nails  and screws.    How many boards do i need.  I am 300lbs so i need it to be really strong.  I plan on screwing it to my wood patio and also using some 1x2 as trim around the bottom to help secure it as well.f

So i figure 2 1x2x8ft and i dont know how many 2x12x8ft  ill need.    Looks like the factory rv steps are about 26 inches wide so i guess these will be about the same, or maybe i better go 30 just to have some extra space.
 
I am not sure what your project is.

Sound like it might be steps or a landing.

Did you forget to include a picture or description of the project?
 
LOL yep i sure did wow, sorry about that... oops

here ya go..

 

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If you are going to use 2 X 12's for the actual steps you can get 3 steps out of each 96 inch, (8 foot) piece.
You will need two for 6 steps.

You will need two for the sides that will be cut and maybe three if you want a  center support for really strong steps, (probably not needed).

So you will need 4 or 5 of the 2 X 12s.

The riser or kick plates can be 1 X 4 based on your drawing.  They may have a gap at the bottom but that will still work.
Again for 30 inch wide steps you will get 3 risers out of a 1 X 4 x 96.  So you need two of them.

I would get 5 of the 2 X 12 X 8 feet and 2 of the 1 X 4 X 8 feet plus the trim for the bottom.

Harbor Freight sells stick on rubber sections with a grip surface that you might want to consider to prevent falls.

I would use deck screws and predrill the holes so the wood does not split.

You might want to consider hand rails also,

Are you going to use the plywood for the box underneath the steps?  If so then you might use slightly taller risers to fill the gap and waterproof the box.

That is what I get from a quick look at it.

That advice is worth exactly what it cost you,,,Good Luck
 
Thank you so much, ill make a list and check it twice.... harbor freight is more than 35 miles from me so ill have to find some rubber someplace closer..  :)
 
Dave,

You are going to have either 2 or 3 extra pieces of 2 X 12 depending on if  you put in a center support.

They will be about 3 1/2 feet long and are what is left from the supports.

Rip each one long ways and you will have 3  boards (2 X 4 each)

Make sure that your supports are flush with the edge of the steps and use one of these at the top step and one at the bottom.  Predrill and screw these to both the support and the steps for your handrail vertical pieces.  Cut the tops first to match the angle of your steps.  The third 2 X 4 will make your railing,  Bevel the bottom if you wish.  You might even use a lag screw or two on the uprights to make it sturdy,

If you did choose to have a center support then you can have three upright supports for each side of the railing.

Just an afterthought since you will have the wood anyway.

You do not want to break a hip or anything on your new stairs.

Edit:  Another afterthought.

I would drill two holes thru the vertical railing support and the main step support for each of them.  Then use 6 inch long bolts, washers, and nuts to make the railing completely wobble free.  You can tighten the bolts from the inside and it will stay tighter than lag screws.
 
If it was me, I would take a measurement from the bottom of the door to the patio, then divide that number by 4 or 5 to see if you come up with something around 6-1/2" or 7". Then I would eliminate the top riser. This will allow you to use less material and the distance of the bottom riser face will not be as far away from the RV. There's no need to have a top step even with the RV floor or even close. 
You show a total rise of 26" but if you add up all the risers, (include the bottom riser) it's closer to 32".

You should also make the bottom riser the same height as all the other steps so there isn't a tripping hazard.  When stepping from that step to the next, the brain will think it's the same height and you'll trip.
 
I am glad that we got some input from a really smart fellow, Mr Rainy.

As a rule I do not design steps or stairs.  I am a ramp guy.  Handicap ramps that you can push a stretcher up with a patient on it.

Here are a couple of pictures of my last ramp and deck.

Mr Rainy was there just before this was built in South Carolina.

We probably should get Mr Rainy to inspect your steps when done so that we can put his picture on the Internet again.

I know....Payback is a ..........
 

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HueyPilotVN said:
We probably should get Mr Rainy to inspect your steps when done so that we can put his picture on the Internet again.

I know....Payback is a ..........
Click to expand...

Bill, as nice as you are, I can't believe your're wanting to subject all the members here to that torture again! ;D 8) Haha
 
Hi,

Yes it would be more distance between the ground and the bottom of the door but i built a patio so i have to go from the top of the patio to the door.  See Pics..

The patio is made from used pallets locked together, then covered with plywood, then carpet.  The best pallet is under the current stairs and is about 48x48, its almost new and is very strong.  It should handle the weight of the new steps with no issues. 

Now the total run i have limits not only because of the awning but also because i dont want to block off that whole side of my patio so i think 4 or 5 feet max for the whole step run is all i want to go.  This would still give me half of the patio at end to remain active.

I could also put a support under the trailer along the back edge of the patio to help support the stairs in some way, so that would be an option as well.  I do have 3 bags of left over concrete from another project.

The issue with the current steps is that they are too steep and with my bad back its just hard for me pull myself up inside the trailer.  Also going down the steps i have nearly fallen as well. 

It is exactly 26 1/2 inchese from the top of the patio to the bottom tip of the door support latch hanging down at the bottom of the door.  Add another 1 inch to the round edge at the bottom of the door.

I need to restretch that carpet as well pretty soon.

 

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Rene T said:
If it was me, I would take a measurement from the bottom of the door to the patio, then divide that number by 4 or 5 to see if you come up with something around 6-1/2" or 7". Then I would eliminate the top riser. This will allow you to use less material and the distance of the bottom riser face will not be as far away from the RV. There's no need to have a top step even with the RV floor or even close. 
You show a total rise of 26" but if you add up all the risers, (include the bottom riser) it's closer to 32".

You should also make the bottom riser the same height as all the other steps so there isn't a tripping hazard.  When stepping from that step to the next, the brain will think it's the same height and you'll trip.
Click to expand...

I was thinking along the same lines as Rene.

Definitely don't want that 2 inch tripper at the top...
and definitely don't want that odd height last step at the bottom
neither of those comply with any sort of building code that I'm aware of.... & I know from first hand experience that these things can really trip folks more than you might imagine.

As far as I know, the maximum riser height is something like 7 or 8 inches....can be anything less but they all need to be the same
and treads need to be at least 10 inches or so wide
 
oh, the other thing about that short bottom step is when coming down.... people will expect it to be the same drop as the rest.  I've torqued my back a few times coming down when the bottom is larger than the rest, and sorta trip when it's short and hit the ground too early.
 
Go to Home Depot and purchase a stringer for 3 steps and another one for 4 steps. Take them home and see which one works best for you. You don't need a step right under the door. Just make that a regular step up.  Just return the one you don't need and buy 2 others the same amount of steps.  You may be able to get away with 4 steps instead of 5 like you've drawn and that will give you more room on your patio.

Found this online:

The general rule (in the US) is 7-11 (a 7 inch rise and 11 inch run). More exactly, no more than 7 3/4 inches for the riser (vertical) and a minimum of 10 inches for the tread (horizontal or step). You can find some more information here as well on other stair-related dimensions.

I just checked my RV steps and the rise is 9-1/2". Go figure. I guess the RV industry feels that people will not fall or trip.
 
Rene so that means with 3 stringers i must have one in the middle as well?  Even at just 30 inches wide?
 
durangod said:
Rene so that means with 3 stringers i must have one in the middle as well?  Even at just 30 inches wide?
Click to expand...

The best thing to do is put 2 boards down on top of 2 blocks spaced 30" apart (simulating treads)  then stand on them. If they feel stable enough for you, just go with two. If the boards flex quite a bit, go with 3. You have to decide that. Are you going with 5/4 pressure treated boards or composite decking for the treads?
 
I am in the process of building steps which can be assembled in minutes and taken apart in minutes with no screws. I am using composite deck boards for the treads. The treads will be 30" long but they are supported underneath.

http://www.doityourselfrv.com/simple-portable-rv-stairs/
 
OK Rene, good luck with your project as well.

I dont buy anything pressure treated other than some of the 2x4 i used for my shed, but that project is done.  This is because i paint everything so i dont need pressure treated. 

I will be painting the steps brown as i have some dark brown paint left over from another project.  I will prob use 2x10 or 1x10 for the treads.
 
just a couple of additional notes to add to the other good advice...

Avoid using 2x10, 2x12 for a step tread(s), instead use either 2x4 or 2x6 to achieve the desired tread depth.
The wider the lumber the more it will cup, and it will cup, no matter what it is covered in or treated with, using narrower boards reduces the amount of cupping and prevents the loosening or tearing of the hold-down screws and makes the steps feel more comfortable and secure.
I like to use the rule of thumb of no more than a 15" centre Oops, no more than 30" centres between stringers with a 2" thick step also no more than 4" extending over the sides of the stringers.
Also, if using metal (big box store) prefabbed stringers bolt the treads down, don't screw from underneath, screwing from underneath can allow unnoticed loosening of the treads.

Cheers,
Geoff

PS. Rene, please let me know how secure those steps feel once you have them done.
At first (and second) glance(s) the fact that the treads are not secured and only held in place by those little nubs makes me think of the tread flipping up if the user does not place the foot squarely fore & aft on the tread.
It may just be the look and once built it is probably a non-issue


 
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