What supplies do i need for this project

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Thanks Geoff,

So i figured it both ways, with precut stringers and without. 

With precut stringers the convenience is there but of course at a price.  Its $30 for 2 precut 4 step stringers and i also dont like the type of wood they use for those, its very grainy and course, rough brownish appearance, and it would not paint well at all.  Total cost would be about $80

With DIY stringers the cost is much less, about $49. 

1 ea 2x10x8 for stringers (both sides i can cut out of one board)  $9.60
2 ea 1x6x8 for risers (all risers can be cut from two boards)  $12.00
4 ea 2x6x8 for treads (ill have one full width board  and 1 trimmed board on each step)  I should be able to get lowes to rip the boards for me to proper width. $7ea = $28.00

total of $49.60

PS... my dad had a great idea.  When i get my 2x10x8 board, just scoot on over to where the precut stringers are and lay the stringer on my 2x10 and mark it out, that way i have the pattern.  Im sure Lowes wont care about me borrowing the pattern of their board..





 
Hey Guys,

Question for Durango, My question concerns the measurement of your diagram. I see you have a total run of 3.5 feet, which means your door will be 3.5 feet to first step from the ground. Have you considered where and how you will open your door?

 
Conquest2011 said:
Hey Guys,

Question for Durango, My question concerns the measurement of your diagram. I see you have a total run of 3.5 feet, which means your door will be 3.5 feet to first step from the ground. Have you considered where and how you will open your door?

Actually the 3.5 foot run would be the same if i laid a board flat on the deck against the edge of the RV and the board was length wize going out from the trailer.  So it would be something like this  ___RV___    ____board____    so that means that the last step will be 3.5 feet away from the RV, and the top step will be close to the doorway. 

There should be no issue opening the door as the door will not change.  The only concern i might have is that i am over 6ft tall and my head might come close or touch the awning as i use the stairs. Ill have to see how that goes. 
 
Gotcha Durango,
          Please consider that you have, and I believe a 30" wide door that will open 30" over your steps. Don't know if that will be an issue or not, something to consider.
 
Conquest2011 said:
Gotcha Durango,
          Please consider that you have, and I believe a 30" wide door that will open 30" over your steps. Don't know if that will be an issue or not, something to consider.

OK now i think i get what your saying, ill have to open the door standing on the deck beside the steps i guess or from the third step and then back down when the door swings open.
 
You like me, I will have a small teeny tinny little project and end up building the fricking Taj Mahal.

Here is a good website calculator I like to use. www.deck.com. Mess around with a little bit and see what you think.

Hell, Durango If we were closer, I'd come over we getter done. Good Luck with it and be careful.
 
durangod said:
Thanks Conquest2011 ill take pix during and after  :)

I may have already mentioned this but if it was me, I would eliminate the top step. Just step up into the RV from the 4th step. This would make to total run shorter by about 10".  If you did this, you'd need to adjust the rise so that each step height are equal.  You need to do that for the bottom step because the rise is 1" shorter than all the others.
 
Rene T said:
I may have already mentioned this but if it was me, I would eliminate the top step. Just step up into the RV from the 4th step. This would make to total run shorter by about 10".  If you did this, you'd need to adjust the rise so that each step height are equal.  You need to do that for the bottom step because the rise is 1" shorter than all the others.

I think if i did that it would make the steps too steep,  when i was at lowes i took a 3 step and 4 step stringer and set them against the rack as though they were installed.  The 3 step is not much different than i have now - too steep.  The 4 step should work perfectly and should be physically easier to get into the RV, i think lol

Ill try the 4 step in a semi built fashion, if i am wrong i can always go buy another board and cut the 3step. 
 
Sounds like a plan. Your 1st sketch showed 5 steps and now you're going with 4. That's pretty much what I was referring to by eliminating the top step. 
 
I bought something similar for the steps inside our motorhome. Buy online and you don't have to travel

https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Cal-Coin-Grip-Non-Slip-Rubber-Tread/dp/B00Y3OKFSQ/ref=asc_df_B00Y3OKFSQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167134437529&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10251673808507896275&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021614&hvtargid=pla-272982531550&psc=1


 
Well i might be in luck, the people across moved out of their leased lot and sold their rv as well.  However they left behind some really nice steps.  So ill ask the office if they are going to return and if i can get a message to them if i can have those steps.. If so its perfect...
 
Yep i had the office call them and they said take em....

So here is a pic of them, they need some work badly, new bolts, and probably new some new wood, ill save what i can. The handrail is about to fall off.  But at least i have the basic framework.  Alittle bit of paint and some TLC and ill show you a pic afterwords... :) 

 

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