Atwood Hot Water Heater Drain Plug

I know this topic has been brought up before and I have looked at the posts and tried the suggestions with not good results.

I have a 2013 Winnebago Sunstar 35F with an Atwood Hot water Heater. I have not been able to get the drain plug to stop leaking. The leak is not a drip but a small stream squirting out between the plug and the drain hole wall. This stream is not always at the same point so I don't think it is a defect in the drain threads. I have replaced the drain plug multiple times. I have used teflon tape and pipe dope. I get the same results.  Yesterday I used about 8 -10 wraps of teflon tape as was suggested in one post. I did use the same plug, maybe a mistake, but it doesn't seem to matter as I have replaced the plug in the past. This morning I have a small arch of water coming out of the drain. The leak takes a few hours to appear.

I have been using the Camco nylon drain plugs. They do not seem to be tapered. They easily screw into the head of the drain plug. I do not really tighten down on the plug for fear of damaging it, but it is well seated.

I have not tried to clean the threads with a tap yet. I have to get a tap. I plan to go to camping world to see if they have an Atwood plug or something different from the camco plugs. I also plan to get a tap.

Am I using the wrong plug?
Should the plug be tapered?
Should I be using a different sealant? I've read that none should be required.

For some history, we have had the motorhome since November of 2016. We started full timing in June of this year so the water heater is on all the time now. The leak is not immediate. It takes time. I also wonder if the water has to be hot. This water heater seems to heat the water very hot. Not sure the temperature, but it will burn you. Could it be a temperature/pressure thing? The pressure seems to be reasonable and I replaced the pressure regulator a few weeks ago (July).

Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

Try a CPVC plug from the hardware store. If that doesn't work, you may have to get a tap and chase the threads. I don't use any tape at all on mine, and have used the same plug about a dozen times this past year with no leakage.

The plug should ben tapered. 1/2" pipe plug thread. Do not use a metal one. Use a plastic one or the one that goat said to try. If you do chase the threads, do not overdue it. You don't want to remove any metal.
I use the plastic plug and never use any type of sealant. After putting it in 5 or 6 times, I have to replace it. It screws in too far for me. Are you using a socket on the plug or a open ended wrench. I would only use a socket. You may not be installing it tight enough.

I would recommend using only genuine Atwood plugs (Atwood (91857 1/2" Drain Plug Kit, (Pack of 2)))--Camco ones are thinner and seem to deteriorate/break more.  I use some Teflon tape on mine and a socket wrench to install/remove.  If you ever do break off a plug, this handy gadget makes it easy to remove the broken neck: Orbit Sprinkler System 1/2-Inch & 3/4-Inch Plastic Pipe Nipple Extractor 26076

cbeierl said:

I would recommend using only genuine Atwood plugs (Atwood (91857 1/2" Drain Plug Kit, (Pack of 2)))--Camco ones are thinner and seem to deteriorate/break more.  I use some Teflon tape on mine and a socket wrench to install/remove.  If you ever do break off a plug, this handy gadget makes it easy to remove the broken neck: Orbit Sprinkler System 1/2-Inch & 3/4-Inch Plastic Pipe Nipple Extractor 26076

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Or if it's plastic, you can drive a wide screwdriver blade into the plastic and back it out.

First are you using a NYLON Plug or a metal one?  (Atwood insists on nylon)

Possiblity is someone cut a nylon plug that borke out and damaged the threads.

What I did.. I have a plastic nipple (Same plastic as they used to hook it up to the PEX on the inside of the RV) and a brass quarter turn valve. I was able to get it to seal nicely  but if the threads are damaged this may not work... Locktite pipe seal might work. or some other sealant.

Just no metal to metal contact on this drain.. at least no metal to the tank (Brass to brass in the valve is OK, or plastic to plastic as those are bigger valves which is better)

Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions. I spent the day looking for plugs and a tap. I couldn't find a tap (Lowes was sold out and by that time I had had enough frustration). Camping world only had the camco plugs. I went to ACE and found a nylon plug. I could not find a CPVC plug at Lowes, Home Depot or ACE.

John, I have always used the Camco nylon plugs. I had read previous posts on the metal to metal problem and that the nylon plugs are used as a safety thing.

When I got back:
First, per Rene's comment I tried to tighten the plug that I installed yesterday. I hadn't really felt that it was as tight as it should be, but it didn't seem like it was going to take much more. In less than a turn it broke. I installed the plug from ACE. It was tapered and tightened up before the shoulder on the plug contacted the neck of the drain on the hot water heater. I did use a couple of turns of teflon tape on it. So far the water is hot and I do not have a leak.

My observations:
This is in my situation. I do not know if the PO or anyone else had messed with the drain on this hot water heater.
As cbeierl pointed out the camco plugs are thinner. I didn't measure the ACE plug before installing it, but I noticed a difference when I screwed it in. It seemed to be slightly larger in diameter, a schosh (sp). It definitely was tapered. The camco plugs are not tapered (I measured the best I could with a tape and my eyeball). The shoulder on the camco plug had hit the neck of the drain before I felt it was tight. The ACE plug tightened up when the shoulder was 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the drain neck.

If I don't come back with another post the problem is fixed. Thanks for your help. I was afraid I was missing something, but I have a much better feeling after using the plug from ACE.

Looking good. Thanks for getting back to us.

As an aside, the nylon plugs have little or no taper because the plug itself is soft enough that the metal threads can cut into it and also will compress it somewhat.  Iron or brass plugs are much harder material and need a more pronounced taper to achieve a tight fit.  As for CPVC plugs, they are somewhere in-between metal and nylon in hardness and usually have some taper.


I suspect the OP couldn't find a CPVC plug simply because he was looking in the wrong department, maybe the "RV" or "water heater" aisle.  CPVC 1/2" plugs are a standard plumbing fitting item and found in the regular plumbing dept in most any hardware, home or plumbing supply store..

First store I ask  and the plug they sold me (Well it was an adapter) did not work well
2nd store I got lucky and Saw it on the shelf. bought  two (different sizes) costing 59 and 69 cents. used the bigger 69 cent one on the water heater (the smaller one the valve would have hit the tank and not closed) used the 59 center a week later on another job. knew I'd need it.

Holy thread resurrection, Batman! My drain plug on my atwood 6gal water heater started leaking and search led me here. I guess OP had success since he never updated. I tried pulling the plug and teflon taping it, still got a drip. I will try a new plug tomorrow if I can find one. The plug is on the outside, IE exterior of camper, with a plate between outside and inside, but it's caulked, and the caulk seems to have given up, so some water is running under galley counter. I thought it was the dogs being sloppy with their water at first, moved the water bowl and dried things out, still wet.

melbr00ks said:

Holy thread resurrection, Batman! My drain plug on my atwood 6gal water heater started leaking and search led me her.e. I guess OP had success since he never updated. I tried pulling the plug and teflon taping it, still got a drip. I will try a new plug tomorrow if I can find one. The plug is on the outside, IE exterior of camper, with a plate between outside and inside, but it's caulked, and the caulk seems to have given up, so some water is running under galley counter. I thought it was the dogs being sloppy with their water at first, moved the water bowl and dried things out, still wet.

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Can you start another post with your issue?  It will save everyone from reading this one from the beginning. Thanks.
Just by reading what you said, it has me a little confused.  So on a new thread, we'll be able to answer any questions you may have and vice versa. Just reading what you said, you may have a different problem than the OP of this post.  You should not be getting water inside the RV from the drain plug.

Quick FYI. For cleaning the threads on the plug fitting on the WH, I use a battery terminal cleaning tool originally designed for the old post style battery terminals. The male round wire brush is a good fit for cleaning the threads on the female fitting. Beats having to use a tap.

Rene T said:

The plug should ben tapered. 1/2" pipe plug thread. Do not use a metal one. Use a plastic one or the one that goat said to try. If you do chase the threads, do not overdue it. You don't want to remove any metal.
I use the plastic plug and never use any type of sealant. After putting it in 5 or 6 times, I have to replace it. It screws in too far for me. Are you using a socket on the plug or a open ended wrench. I would only use a socket. You may not be installing it tight enough.

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I know this is an old thread.
I tried using a CPVC plug.
It was difficult to get it to seal.
After tightening it up to the sealing point,
after a few months it started dripping.
Any thoughts?
The previous Camco plug worked fine, until it fell apart.
Mike

Why struggle with it? Buy a package of the Atwood nylon plugs for $4.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Atwood-Drain-Plugs-p/80-8489.htm

Did you use teflon pipe on the CPVC plug?

Gary RV_Wizard said:

Why struggle with it? Buy a package of the Atwood nylon plugs for $4.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Atwood-Drain-Plugs-p/80-8489.htm

Did you use teflon pipe on the CPVC plug?

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And after you install one of the plugs, secure the second one inside the heater cover so you'll know exactly where it is the next time it's needed. If you store it someplace else, you'll never find again until you buy more. And yes, that's the voice of experience speaking...

Also, ONLY use a 6 point socket to install or remove it. If you use a 12 point socket or a crescent wrench, chances are you'll round off the points.