Why do i use propane even when plugged in?

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Annapurna845

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Joined
Aug 21, 2018
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St Augustine Florida
Hi. I am kind of new to RV-ing. Right now i am plugged into A/C current. I am running the fridge and often, the air conditioner. Why does the propane still get used? Does the fridge use propane to cool even if you are plugged into AC? Also being i am plugged in should i turn off the switch that is on to run the fridge while i am on the road?
Thanks.
Dana
 
The make and model of the fridge would help.  Usually you set the control to AUTO and it will run on electric when available and switch to propane for driving and parked with no electric.  Keep in mind that you need a charged battery at all times that the fridge is in use.
 
If you are plugged into shore power and not paying for it by the kilowatt then it should be set to AC. If you are running the generator or paying for electricity you are usually better off running on propane.
 
I just had my propane tank filled. The jerk who filled it (long story), turned the propane valve off. The way i figured it out was the fridge kept having the "check" light lit. Checked the stove and no propane feed so checked the valve on the tank and it was off. So apparently the fridge needs propane. BTW its a Dometic. I have a 2016 Coachman Freelander 21QB. So I guess the fridge needs propane even if running on current.
Dana
 
I looked up specs for your RV and it says electric / propane. So I would take it to mean it can run on either one. Look on the front for a switch that says Auto/Electric/Gas.

https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2016-coachmen-freelander-class-c-floorplan-21qb-tr24637
 
Annapurna845 said:
So I guess the fridge needs propane even if running on current.

I don't believe that's true. I'm not familiar with the Dometic - it may be that you have it set to automatic and it's looking for propane, but I'm fairly certain you can set the fridge manually to AC and you will not get a check light.
 
The dometic fridge plugs in to a 120v outlet to run on shore power. If you turn the fridge and propane off, then start just the fridge on shore power, you'll probably hear a clicking, which is the burner trying to ignite, it will try 3 times, then the check light illuminates. If this is the case, I'd be willing to bet it's simply unplugged. There is also a fuse on the back of the fridge that could be the culprit, but that usually indicates a bad heating element.

I just went through this with my new trailer, trouble shot it for 3 days, and it was never plugged in. I'm not sure about the access on your RV, but on mine there was a vent underneath that I was able to reach up and plug it back in.

At any rate, finding the access and checking the plug is about the simplest of fixes.
 
The jerk who filled it (long story), turned the propane valve off.
He is supposed to do that when filling, for safety reasons.  Whether he turns it on again when finished is optional, but often they do not.  That safety procedure dates from the time when many RVs had manual pilot lights, but the tank fill jockeys don't have the time or training to know how every RV is equipped, so turning off the LP at the tank is SOP everywhere. Many states specifically require it in the fueling regulations.
 
Propane is used when on the road if you have the Fridge turned on
It may also be used by the water heater depending on make, model. and switch settings.

I accidently turned a knob on my stove yesterday. Found it and turned it back off.
 
SeilerBird said:
I looked up specs for your RV and it says electric / propane. So I would take it to mean it can run on either one. Look on the front for a switch that says Auto/Electric/Gas.

https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2016-coachmen-freelander-class-c-floorplan-21qb-tr24637

...and leave it on Auto or Electric. If you leave it on Auto it will detect whether or not you are plugged in and act appropriately (provided the propane is on). You might check in the back of the fridge (through the door outside) and verify that the fridge is plugged in (someone may have unplugged it).

Check there is power at that outlet by using either a meter or a 120V lamp fixture by plugging it in. If there is power and the fridge still defaults to gas operation, check the small glass fuse hidden skillfully away in the black box on the back of the fridge (F7-5 amp).
 
Not to throw a fly in the ointment, but what does your water heater run on? Mine is propane only. Maybe it's not the fridge?
 
Punomatic said:
Not to throw a fly in the ointment, but what does your water heater run on? Mine is propane only. Maybe it's not the fridge?

That's a real possibility.


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Based on your reports that the Check light comes on when the propane tank is shut off, it appears your fridge is indeed always going to propane (LP_ for cooling power.  It should not, unless you have forced it to LP gas mode. The default is Auto or AC (depends on the fridge make/model), but both of those will use 120v AC shore power if available.  If your fridge is set to one of those modes (controls on the front of fridge) and it still uses propane, then something is preventing the fridge from using 120v AC.  Could be it is simply unplugged, or a circuit breaker has tripped, or maybe the AC power fuse on its circuit board is blown. 

If the fridge is set to LP or Gas on its front control, then simply change the setting to Auto or AC.


Your water heater may also be using propane. Most water heaters have the ability to use either gas or 120v AC, depending on which you switch on.  You make the choice manually by turning on one of two switches to choose either gas or electric. 
 
Just a huge thanks for all the help here. So I figured out what the problem was thanks to your suggestions. The darn fridge wasn't plugged in!!!!! It is now happily running on AC current and the propane is shut off.

Thanks Again
Dana
 
Annapurna845 said:
Just a huge thanks for all the help here. So I figured out what the problem was thanks to your suggestions. The darn fridge wasn't plugged in!!!!! It is now happily running on AC current and the propane is shut off.

Thanks Again
Dana

Always start your diagnostics with the easy stuff. With electrical problems (no power) it?s most likely going to be either not plugged in, breaker tripped or blown fuse.
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
He is supposed to do that when filling, for safety reasons.  Whether he turns it on again when finished is optional, but often they do not.  That safety procedure dates from the time when many RVs had manual pilot lights, but the tank fill jockeys don't have the time or training to know how every RV is equipped, so turning off the LP at the tank is SOP everywhere. Many states specifically require it in the fueling regulations.

yep
and rules or not, if I were doing that job I would not presume I should turn it back on without being told or asking.  There could be some owner special repair thing going on....like a pilot light that gets lit manually and the safety device removed for some reason.  I can imagine scenarios where I might not have an opportunity or might not remember to ask....
 
blw2 said:
yep
and rules or not, if I were doing that job I would not presume I should turn it back on without being told or asking.  There could be some owner special repair thing going on....like a pilot light that gets lit manually and the safety device removed for some reason.  I can imagine scenarios where I might not have an opportunity or might not remember to ask....

Exactly.  The guy at my home town LP stop always asks me, even when he knows the answer.
 
I don't understand why the propane was shut off after the fridge was plugged in and working on electric.  Why would you want to defeat the automatic switch-over to propane if the electric power goes out?

That reminds me of "several" friends of mine who insist on defeating their automatic changeover propane regulators, by closing off one bottle because they want to know when the first bottle runs out...Huh???  I don't want to come back at the end of a long hot day out to find that my fridge has been off for many hours because I defeated the auto system.  When boondocking and using the furnace, I also wouldn't want to wake up cold because I defeated the auto changeover and the furnace quit due to no propane while I actually have a full bottle on board...or the furnace doesn't come on due to defeating the system when using the furnace as backup to electric heaters....or my oven quit in the middle of cooking something..etc,. etc.

I had a good laugh once when I heard a noise outside at around 3 AM.  I looked out the bedroom window to see my friend in the next campsite out in the freezing cold, partially dressed, opening the valve on his full bottle.  Then he had to cycle the furnace several times to get propane back up through the propane depleted line before the furnace would start.  I still razz him about that...and he still keeps one propane bottle turned off defeating the auto system.....???  I guess somehow it makes sense to them............But there is more.  When the regulator failed one friend, who always defeats the auto changeover function, paid the extra to buy another auto changeover regulator....Huh????  
 

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