in tank fuel pump

we are getting ready to take a 1500 mile trip back east and the in tank fuel pump is bothering me. I have no reason to suspect it is near to failing but it could be as old as the coach which is a 1989. The rig has 70K miles which isn't a lot but, the age again makes me wonder. I checked the ac delco one and its less than 70 dollars at one of the chain auto part store, which is reasonable. It looks like an all day job for sure and the filler neck is leaking so, that might be enough reason to drop the tank, I really don't want to. What are you folks experiences with this age and mileage of your coaches? 

I have been driving for over 50 years and have had two failures. Honestly, I think you are worrying needlessly, yes it can happen but the odds are in your favor. As you suggest dropping the tank is not a fun job and is normally not necessary to repair the filler neck.

If it ain't broke don't fix it!! 

For peace of mind you may want to buy the pump and take it with you.

Have you ever pulled a gas tank and replaced a pump?  I think you'd be creating more problems than you'd solve.

Arch Hoagland said:

If it ain't broke don't fix it!! 

For peace of mind you may want to buy the pump and take it with you.

Have you ever pulled a gas tank and replaced a pump?  I think you'd be creating more problems than you'd solve.

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yes, I have dropped tanks and replaced pumps in 18 gallon car tanks, not so bad, never a 70 gallon tank. If I did take one with, replacing it on the road would be impossible I believe

Deano2002 said:

the in tank fuel pump is bothering me

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What's it doing that bothers you?  Sometimes Most of the time 'starving' issues are fuel filter related??

Deano2002 said:

yes, I have dropped tanks and replaced pumps in 18 gallon car tanks, not so bad, never a 70 gallon tank. If I did take one with, replacing it on the road would be impossible I believe

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And with a full tank. I wouldn't buy a pump.

I am on an 1989 chassis and never worried. 
Never thought about it.
Certainly I would not do the job "on the road"  and most likely I would pay to get it done if it HAPPENED to fail on the road

Deano2002 said:

yes, I have dropped tanks and replaced pumps in 18 gallon car tanks, not so bad, never a 70 gallon tank. If I did take one with, replacing it on the road would be impossible I believe

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With a 70 gallon tank you need a few special tools

A Transmission jack (or 2) and some lumber.

spencerpj said:

What's it doing that bothers you?  Sometimes Most of the time 'starving' issues are fuel filter related??

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Its doing nothing strange, just the 29 year old thing, I guess

If you have 5 gallon jugs or a way to hold the fuel you can remove the fuel line and adapt a hose to it. Then jump the pump relay. I'd be concerned about the tank straps and rust and also getting the lock collar off without it being damaged or rusted bad. Be prepared to be held up on parts or need to take the tank in to a place that repairs them. We used to take them to a radiator shop.

Everyone is different but there is no way in the world I would go anywhere with a 30 year old pump. Pump, hoses, belts, water pump, belt idlers and even deteriorated radiator can strand you. If the engine is solid and has good oil pressure it isn't likely to blow, it's usually something like overheating that takes it out.

As I said everyone is different but I consider it an insurance policy. I have never bought road side assistance and in 48 years have only had a few flats and one distributor that failed on a 1999 4.3 Chevy on a Sunday afternoon in the winter. I just had that one towed to the dealer.

I remember I also had a Cherokee break an plastic radiator end cap near the top hose. The coolant was low enough that the crack stopped weeping. A  party store had crazy glue and starting fluid so I cleaned it then used crazy glue. With it being warm it sucked right into the crack and sealed it. It got me home and parked it and as it heat soaked it popped it again.

darsben said:

I am on an 1989 chassis and never worried. 
Never thought about it.
Certainly I would not do the job "on the road"  and most likely I would pay to get it done if it HAPPENED to fail on the road

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I wouldn't do it on the road either, paying for that probably would be 2K

John From Detroit said:

With a 70 gallon tank you need a few special tools

A Transmission jack and some lumber.

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have lots of lumber, I wondered about a trans jack, seen plenty of youtube videos using floor jacks though. One fellow made a nice wood platform on a floor jack to lower it down

Rene T said:

And with a full tank. I wouldn't buy a pump.

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tank has minimum fuel in it now

Deano2002 said:

have lots of lumber, I wondered about a trans jack, seen plenty of youtube videos using floor jacks though. One fellow made a nice wood platform on a floor jack to lower it down

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You might be able to use a pair of ratchet straps to lower and raise the tank.  That is how I installed a 50 gallon Titan tank.

Deano2002 said:

Its doing nothing strange, just the 29 year old thing, I guess

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Drive it and enjoy.  If you worry about everything, you'll enjoy nothing.  I understand your concerns, I ride a 1983 motorcycle, at times out of state.  Make sure hoses and belts, rubber stuff are in good shape.  You don't want to see inside that old gas tank anyway, try and keep it at 1/4 tank and above.  I ran a 1983 Class C to almost every State Park in Indiana with the kids 15 years ago, never an issue, (except brakes).  Now knowing what I know, I should have replaced the tires.

tires, hoses, belts, fan clutch and, waterpump are nearly new, maybe 2 years. The radiator was re-cored also

I think you may have a Chevy engine. If so, Chevy would be TBI ( throttle body injection) with about a 13 psi pump. In my experience these pumps give plenty of notice when they are failing versus a high pressure pump that may just quit. I once drove drove a 1990 TBI vehicle ( not daily driver) for two years with failing pump. Finally got tired of waiting for pump to cool down and restart or beating on tank with rubber hammer to get it going and replaced pump. 
  Also, on Chevy TBI of that vintage, the fuel pump relay can mimic a failing pump. I would change the relay as PM. Less than $20.

jubileee said:

I think you may have a Chevy engine. If so, Chevy would be TBI ( throttle body injection) with about a 13 psi pump. In my experience these pumps give plenty of notice when they are failing versus a high pressure pump that may just quit. I once drove drove a 1990 TBI vehicle ( not daily driver) for two years with failing pump. Finally got tired of waiting for pump to cool down and restart or beating on tank with rubber hammer to get it going and replaced pump. 
  Also, on Chevy TBI of that vintage, the fuel pump relay can mimic a failing pump. I would change the relay as PM. Less than $20.

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I have a quadrajet 4 barrel carb, no fuel injection

Deano2002 said:

I have a quadrajet 4 barrel carb, no fuel injection

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I?m surprised. All Chevy truck engines were tbi by 1987. Don?t know why you would be worried about an in tank fuel pump with a carburetor. Just bolt a correct pressure fuel pump on the frame rail or somewhere as close to the fuel tank as possible. If the in tank quits, turn on the external.

jubileee said:

I?m surprised. All Chevy truck engines were tbi by 1987. Don?t know why you would be worried about an in tank fuel pump with a carburetor. Just bolt a correct pressure fuel pump on the frame rail or somewhere as close to the fuel tank as possible. If the in tank quits, turn on the external.

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Jubileee nailed it. An external in line fuel pump will suck right through an in tank pump.

I converted many old Chevys from TBI to carburetor back in my stock car racing days. 4 to 7 psi max is all you need for a carb.