Replacement fridge for a Norcold 1200?

My Norcold 1200 is not as deep as a standard fridge.  Does anyone know what brand or model will fit without partially blocking the bathroom door?  I am going to measure a counter depth model at Lowes, but was wondering what others have decided on.  I am wondering it maybe the space allotment for the outside access might give enough additional depth.

I used the 18 CF Frigidare that is now on sale at Lowes for under $500.

The door is reversable if you need to change it.

I does block my hallway but that is not a problem.

I think that's the same one I used to replace my 1200.

Many RVers have replaced the Norcold 1200 fridge with counter depth residential fridges.  The 24" depth box is entirely contained within the space occupied by the Norcold with only the doors and handles protruding into the room.

Counter depth fridges had always been specialty items with high prices until Samsung introduced the RF197 several years ago.  That's the fridge we have had for the past ~7 years.  Since then that model has been replaced by the RF18.  I recently became aware of the fact that GE has a 33" wide counter depth unit for a price slightly higher than the Samsung.

The Samsung fridges are slightly taller than the Norcold and that may or may not be an issue in your installation.  We were able to remove some small drawers below ours to get it to fit. I think the GE may be an inch or two shorter.

Joel (AKA docj)

I did this and have pics included.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,116280.msg1058138.html#msg1058138

If possible, choose a "counter depth" or "cabinet depth" (the terms are interchangeable) residential fridge. Those tend to be pricey, though. You still have to pay attention to height and space for the door to swing open and/or drawer to pull out. Some floor plans may have limited space in front of the fridge (e.g. a cabinet directly across from it).

Yes, you gain some 6-8 inches because the RV fridge has a wide space behind it. Depending on the fridge design you may be able to use nearly all of that space. As long as the new fridge does not have cooling fins on the back (most modern fridges do not), it can go quite close to the sidewall, maybe just an inch or so gap.  Modern fridges generally draw air underneath, then up the back and out over the top. You need to allow space for that, as well as venting for th air to enter/exit.

Alternatively, an apartment size top freezer model will usually fit and be inexpensive. I installed a GE 14.4 cu ft model and it only stuck out about 2" more than the Norcold.  If I had another 1" of space for the door to swing out, I could have used a 16 cu ft model.  However, the 14.4 was still 20% large than the old Norcold 1200 and much more effective as a fridge, not to mention frost-free!

The trick is to carefully measure your opening and door swing space and then compare to the fridge specs. Fridge makers provide very detailed dimensions on their websites, including door swing, sizes with and without handles, with or without the door, etc.  The "without door" size is critical in determining if the fridge can be brought through the RV door vs removing a window or windshield to get it inside.

Here's my writeup when I replaced our 1200. The new fridge was a little taller and more narrow so a little bit of cabinetry work was required.

And here is my series of reports on the conversion, posted on this site February, 2016. It's more of a running progress report than a concise write-up, but it has explanations and photos.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,91893.msg829660.html#msg829660

                We have a Norcold 1200 in our motor-home,  It stopped working, would not get cold. A friend told me he had the same problem with his, we pulled it out and turned it upside down for a couple of hours then turned it up right and left it for a few hours. Plugged it back in and it has been fine for the last 1.5 years. You can get a blockage in the evaporator circuit which will stop your fridge from working.

Gary RV_Wizard said:

If possible, choose a "counter depth" or "cabinet depth" (the terms are interchangeable) residential fridge.

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With all due respect, the Samsung RF18 is ~$1300 at AJMadison with free delivery.  IMO that's pretty typical for a French door fridge of that size.  The new counter depth GE is about $400 more but both are much less than the traditional premium price for counter-depth fridges.

We replaced our Norcold 1200 with a Samsung 19.4.  It sticks out just a bit more, but we do not care.  We love the increased storage.  We also installed a door lock from recubed solutions.  About $40.  We also had a problem with some things falling from the shelves into the space between the door and the shelf when traveling.  We solved this with Camco 34" double refrigerator bars which we install before leaving and remove when arriving. About $7.00 from Amazon.  This solved the falling object problem.  The only "complaint" I have it the ice maker.  It makes lots of ice, something my Norcold did not do.  The only problem is it gets too full and ice falls out the back into the lower compartment.  We solve this problem by turning the ice maker off when the tray gets full.  When traveling the unit runs just fine off the inverter or the generator. 

johnaye said:

We replaced our Norcold 1200 with a Samsung 19.4.  It sticks out just a bit more, but we do not care.  We love the increased storage.  We also installed a door lock from recubed solutions.  About $40.  We also had a problem with some things falling from the shelves into the space between the door and the shelf when traveling.  We solved this with Camco 34" double refrigerator bars which we install before leaving and remove when arriving. About $7.00 from Amazon.  This solved the falling object problem.  The only "complaint" I have it the ice maker.  It makes lots of ice, something my Norcold did not do.  The only problem is it gets too full and ice falls out the back into the lower compartment.  We solve this problem by turning the ice maker off when the tray gets full.  When traveling the unit runs just fine off the inverter or the generator.

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Thank You!  I was about to reinvent the wheel here.  I had not heard of recubed solutions, checked them out and ordered one right away.  ) ) )

Bobtop46 said:

Thank You!  I was about to reinvent the wheel here.  I had not heard of recubed solutions, checked them out and ordered one right away.  ) ) )

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I'm not sure why it's necessary to pay someone ~$40 for a latch, when a Velcro strap holds our fridge doors perfectly well.  As for the freezer drawer, an inexpensive angle bracket and a hitch pin provide more than sufficient strength to hold the drawer closed no matter how full it is.  (The attached photo shows two pins and brackets; I now realize only one is necessary.)  The pins go into the empty space in the front of the drawer; there literally is nothing there. 

Here is another simple and inexpensive strap for keeping the door closed.

I think I got it from Lowe's when I got the refer.

docj said:

I'm not sure why it's necessary to pay someone ~$40 for a latch, when a Velcro strap holds our fridge doors perfectly well.  As for the freezer drawer, an inexpensive angle bracket and a hitch pin provide more than sufficient strength to hold the drawer closed no matter how full it is.  (The attached photo shows two pins and brackets; I now realize only one is necessary.)  The pins go into the empty space in the front of the drawer; there literally is nothing there.

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Each to their own.  One thing that impressed me was we lost the lock piece.  Contacted recubed and offered to buy one.  They sent me one for free.  I am more comfortable with the lock than a velcro solution, but that is just me. ;D

I made a little twist latch out of a stainless steel threaded rod and a small piece of hardwood, used an existing threaded insert on the fridge frame that had a small bolt. I think I have about $2 invested.

The lock I made looks like this. I have 2 different length rods. One is used while traveling and the other one is longer and is used to hold the door open a little when we shut down the fridge.

Simple and effective - two good attributes Rene!  )

For those who aren't mechanically inclined, put an eye bolts in the wood surround on either side of the fridge and use a bungee cord between them when traveling. Easy to clip on/off and toss in a drawer when on the campsite.  The flat, adjustable length bungees are convenient for this, but any style of a suitable length does the job.

A bungee like this works nicely:
https://www.amazon.com/Keeper-06119-Adjustable-Flat-Bungee/dp/B0044FPNIG