Electrical problems

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bobdog

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Oct 2, 2018
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4
I've had a 2007 Coleman Fleetwood Cobalt pop-up camper for about 6 months now.  I've put in new batteries and everything worked great for 3 trips.  On the fourth trip, there was no electrical in the camper (lights, heater, outlets) and then my batteries went dead (gas alarm went off).  So, I've always kept my batteries charged. although my charger never stops flashing which would indicate that the battery is full.  I've replaced all fuses and I replaced the switch under the sink that activates all electrical when you set the camper up.  I've checked all connections and looked for wire damage.  While I did find a mouse nest under one battery lid, there is no indication of any damage.  Thanks for any help.
 
The first step is to gather some facts.  Do you have a voltmeter so you can check voltage at the battery, both when connected to shore power (120v) and not? A fully charged 12v battery should show 12.6v with no charging active. With the charger operating, it should be 13.3v or more, possibly as high as 14.4v.

If its a flooded cell  battery with removable caps, have you checked the level of the electrolyte in the cells?  Add distilled water if low.
 
Gary,

Thanks.  I'll get a volt meter.  I don't think there are removable caps, but I'll double check.
 
The symptoms suggest no charging, but without data it is just guesswork.  A $5 digital VOM for Harbor Freight is all you need to get some measurements, Don't need much accuracy.

Does the camper have its own charger (when plugged to shore pwoer)? If not, or no shore power, how do you keep the battery charged?
 
YOu said on the last trip all power (120 and 12) was lost. When you loose 120. the converter or other device that charges the batteries.. DOES NOT.. So your problem seems to be on the 120 volt side of life.

Now. Suspect list
General power fail
Park power fail
Park outlet fail
park breaker trip/fail
Main breakers in RV
Screws loose (usually the main breaker in the RV)
I might add if you have a detachable power cord "Screws" exist in plugs. outlets and inlets.  and YES. I once had a Marinco outlet (The round one that plugged into the owner's brand new 1st time out 5er) fall off in my hand.. ALL the screws were loose.

I'd have loved to be a fly on the wall when he got back to the dealer about it.....
 
Thanks Gary and John.  First, there are no caps on the battery for filling.  Also, I've never hooked up to shore power.  I've always run off my two 12 volt batteries.  I don't know of any charger in the pop-up trailer.  I only charge at my house before leaving on a trip.  I just tested the batteries and one had 1.48 (charged for 2 days a few days ago) and one had 5.1 (charging now for a few days but unplugged during the test).  I don't have much confidence in my charger although it's only about 6 months old and was recommended by the auto store guy.  The charger has never registered full at any time, which is indicated by solid lights rather than flashing.  I attached a pic of the charger for what that's worth.  John, I'll check your list as soon as I have time.  I still want to suspect the mouse that made the nest in my battery case, as the timing coincided with my problems.  While he chewed on the plastic of the battery, there is no evidence of any wire damage...and I think his carcass might still be there if he bit into a wire.  I may just take the batteries to a local auto shop for a full charge, just so I'm starting with a full battery and can see if they are being drained by something.
 

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I'm slow getting back to this, but the problem was merely that the batteries were beyond recharging.  Even though I could charge them and they would register some voltage, I took them for a charge at Walmart and they said both batteries were toast.  It's my first camper and I'm just getting used to the fact that these batteries drain quickly and I will have to charge them every few weeks.  On the bright side, the batteries were less than a year old and Auto Zone replaced them free of charge.
 
If you repeatedly discharge them below around the 50% level their useful life will be drastically shortened, e.g. maybe just a year. Especially true if the battery is a standard automotive engine start battery or even a hybrid marine/RV deep cycle. Special purpose deep cycles hold much better, e.g. golf car batteries. So do AGM's.
 
NO caps means they are "Maintenance free" and odds are very good they are MARINE/deep cycle.

What is the difference between MARINE/deep cycle and DEEP CYCLE?  Depth of discharge

IF you have a 100 amp hour MARINE/Deep Cycle (Say Group 27 or 29 both are in that range) you can safely use about 1/4 of that before rapid aging sets in. That's 25 amp; hours. possible a bit less

But if you have a DEEP CYCLE battery.. you can use half.

WHat happens if you take a MARINE/deep cycle down to 50% Soc... Well the overall life of the battery (normally nearly a deacde) goes down. the farther down you take the State of charge The more damage is done. Take it low enough and it's toast.

I've had DEEP CYCLE recover from depth of charge so low lights inside the RV would not light and they lasted years beyond re-covery... (Total life 9 years. within "Specs")

I've replaces Starting batteries arfter one deep discharge (MARINE/deep cycle are primarlly starting. OH they may recover from one Opps or two. but I'd not use them as you are using them.

As I mentioned a Group 27/29 both round to 100 amp hours 20-25 usable

A pair of 6 volt GC-2 (Golf car) batteries. TRUE deep cycle.. 220 amp hours and 110 usable.

You keep them in series. check the fluid level every use.  Charge as you are now you get 4 times the power for the same price.. You will have to re-charge longer when at home.. If you need to add liquid DISTILLED WATER ONLY.  Best Batteries for RV use. Sam's or Costco have good prices but Wal*mart should come close

There is also a GC-`12  ALso deep cycle but 12 volt. Do not know the capacity off hand.
 
WalMart has 6v deep cycle batteries with 200AH, but very expensive.

Here are a couple of links to 6v 215AH golf cart batteries (true deep cycle).

Check out Batteries Plus Bulbs: https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sligc110
Check out Sam's Club: https://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-golf-car-battery-group-size-gc2/prod3590228.ip?xid=plp_product_1_1

Based on some great advice from forum members, these are the batteries I use for my TT. The 6v batteries are less expensive than 12v deep cycle for the same amount of AH. If you decided to use 6v, you'll need to make sure they are connected in a series. Easy to do. Info on this type connection can be found in the forum's library.
 
First thing I've done on all of my pasts 5 trailers is to replace the cheapo converter (usually a WCFO one) with a progressive dynamics intellicharger (3 stage charger) and mount it within 3 feet of my batteries.  Never had an issue with recharging my batteries.
 
wmtired said:
First thing I've done on all of my pasts 5 trailers is to replace the cheapo converter (usually a WCFO one) with a progressive dynamics intellicharger (3 stage charger) and mount it within 3 feet of my batteries.  Never had an issue with recharging my batteries.

Totally agree. That will also be my next purchase (1996 converter is an antique). But, as I winterized, I connected a 3 stage charger to the batteries for winter storage.
 
bobdog said:
Thanks Gary and John.  First, there are no caps on the battery for filling.  Also, I've never hooked up to shore power.  I've always run off my two 12 volt batteries.  I don't know of any charger in the pop-up trailer.  I only charge at my house before leaving on a trip.  I just tested the batteries and one had 1.48 (charged for 2 days a few days ago) and one had 5.1 (charging now for a few days but unplugged during the test).  I don't have much confidence in my charger although it's only about 6 months old and was recommended by the auto store guy.  The charger has never registered full at any time, which is indicated by solid lights rather than flashing.  I attached a pic of the charger for what that's worth.  John, I'll check your list as soon as I have time.  I still want to suspect the mouse that made the nest in my battery case, as the timing coincided with my problems.  While he chewed on the plastic of the battery, there is no evidence of any wire damage...and I think his carcass might still be there if he bit into a wire.  I may just take the batteries to a local auto shop for a full charge, just so I'm starting with a full battery and can see if they are being drained by something.

Just a question....Is that the only battery charger your using to charge the battery. It only supplies 1 amp to charge the battery. That seems a little low in my opinion.
 
Gizmo100 said:
Just a question....Is that the only battery charger your using to charge the battery. It only supplies 1 amp to charge the battery. That seems a little low in my opinion.

This is what I purchased to maintain my RV batteries, but there are a lot of other similar inexpensive options: https://www.etrailer.com/Battery_Chargers/NOCO/329-G750.html

I like this type chargers because they include a desulfator which is very important in maintaining the life of a battery.
 
IBTripping said:
This is what I purchased to maintain my RV batteries, but there are a lot of other similar inexpensive options: https://www.etrailer.com/Battery_Chargers/NOCO/329-G750.html

I like this type chargers because they include a desulfator which is very important in maintaining the life of a battery.

It sounds like that is the only charger that the guy has to charge the batteries. I not sure a 1 amp charger could charge a connected battery. I would think that phantom power would off set most of that 1 amp..This sounds like a statement..But it's really a question.
 
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