Converter Issue

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grashley

grashley

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2015
Posts
6,610
Location
Western Kentucky
Last week, I pulled the truck forward and the 7 wire cord caught between the bed and tail gate.  It stripped the hot 12V wire and shorted to the chassis through the box.  I got all of that fixed.  I thought.

As we were getting ready for our weekend trip, I started the fridge.  The next morning, I had a LO DC warning on the fridge.  Battery only measured 11.5V. ON SHORE POWER.  I connected my free standing battery charger until we left.  All was good on arrival at the camp ground, but a day later, fridge reports LO DC.  Plugged the charger back in.

Today before we left, with the charger connected, 13.4V.  Without charger, still on shore power, after retracting slides without separate charger, battery read 12.4V.

Clearly (I think) my converter is not working.  It is WFCO model WF9875.

Does this unit have internal fuses or is it ready to eat with eggs for breakfast?  It is accessible, but not easily.
 
I assume you checked the breaker for your converter/charger in your panel box to see if it was tripped?  :eek:
 
If it's not the circuit breaker, check the fuses on the end of the unit. They are right next to the 12 volt connectors.

http://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/9800-Operators-Manual.pdf
 
YOu had 13.4 and after unplugging and pulling in the slide 12.4

Neither of those are abnormal. though normally a 3-stage converter will hit 14 volts or more when you first plug in then taper off to 13.6 when the batteries are charged.

YOu need to monitor throughout the process.. If you have more than 13 volts the converter is working.

HOWEVER..... WFCO's do have a failure mode where they do nto go into BULK like they should.
 
first step is to check voltage output of converter while hooked to shore power.  should be around 13.4 volts (check this voltage at the converter not batteries).  If no volts then check big red fuses at converter.  If fuses are good and no voltage output of converter then probably need to replace.
 
Thank you for the replies.
Yes, I have reset the breaker.  No difference.
With the CAR battery charger, sitting in the basement, plugged into shore power there, and connected to the battery, the voltage was 13.4.  With the external charger disconnected, and just the converter connected, voltage was 12.4.

Access to the converter is either by removing the entire power panel (it is installed right behind it) or through a SMALL opening in the left side of the camper.  This access panel had 20 year old beanpoles in mind, not 65+ year old fat guys.  And it is about 4 or 5 feet back from the hatch.  My DW took photos of the top so I could determine model numbers.  I guess I will crawl in and check fuses.  I fear they will be on the back (panel) side rather than the easier to reach side.  If you never hear from me again, you will know I got stuck and my DW left me there  ;D  ::)
 
If the converter is mounted to the back of the Breaker/Fuse panel odds are the model is the SAME as the breaker /fuse panel  IE Parallex 7300.. the breaker, fuse and converter are all one assembly

THe replacement is a Progressive Dynamics 4600.. you pull the panel. then un-screw and disconnect the "Converter" part. be sure to protect the positive lead and do this with power (120 volt) off

Replace the Electronics with the 4600. re-connect and power on.

The Best converters made are the Progressive Dynamics wizard jobs. A few different models but all of 'em are equally in the "Best" ranking. 4600 9200, 9100 (With optional wizard. that's what I have) all equal for Flooded wet cells. THere are better ones for "Alternative" battery types but not for Flooded wet cells.  I'm on my 2nd 9180 (Still using the original wizard).
 
grashley said:
Access to the converter is either by removing the entire power panel (it is installed right behind it) or through a SMALL opening in the left side of the camper. 
Click to expand...

I had the same access issue. I was able to open a cabinet door right next to my entrance panel and I cut a fairly large hole in the back wall of the cabinet with a sharp box cutter. This allowed me to get to the converter and replace it. I then just made provisions to reinstalled the piece I cut out and made it portable for future access. I also tacked a piece of note paper on that access panel explaining what was behind the panel. This is just so the next owners know.
 
Great idea, Rene!!  There is a kitchen cabinet in that location.  The back of the cabinet is missing to expose the water heater.
 
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