First TT & TV

I'm on a very limited budget. After spending a great deal of time researching, especially on this great forum, I purchased a 24 ft. 1996 Coachman Catalina Lite TT. It has a reputation as a well made product. And, more important, the owner has taking good care of it. Everything works on it. However, on this old of a TT, I know that the air, refrig, etc. can break down at any time. Fortunately, I can do most any needed repairs/maintenance as they arise. I did a very close inspection before making an offer. Lots of good info on this forum, Youtube, etc. on how to do this.

While, as often rightly noted on this forum, it is wise to pick the TT before getting the TV, I did the opposite. I bought a low mileage Durango first and then, based on advice on this forum, looked for a TT within the towing capacity of the TV. I also upgraded the TV first by installing rear load leveling shocks (Monroe) and front high capacity shocks (Monroe Reflex). I also installed a much better trailer hitch (etrailer class III with 9,000 lbs. top towing capacity with load leveling hitch). Finally, I purchased new truck tires with 2205 lbs. max payload per tire. I also did an oil change, transmission service, and coolant service. The Durango has a rated maximum towing capacity of 5850 lbs. However, the improved shocks, receiver hitch, and tires probably added a higher margin of safe towing, not that I ever plan to find out.

The TT has a dry weight of 3554 lbs., a max payload of 1,263, for a gross max weight of 4817 lbs. The hitch weight is 420 lbs. The owner included a brand name load leveling hitch which does not include an anti-sway system. The owner said he never had a sway problem, but he never drove over 60 mph. Smart guy. The TT also has 4 new tires and an electric brake system.

I hadn't yet installed the TV electric hookups because I didn't know what hookup the TT would have. I towed it about 120 miles to my storage area. I won't tow it again until I install the correct TV electric hookups. I also plan to get a trailer brake controller in the TV cabin.

About the first towing experience. The Durango V8 has plenty of hp and torque to comfortably tow the TT. The engine temperature did rise a bit going up hills which I expected, but was not excessive. The Durango has both an auxiliary oil and transmission cooler. I drove very cautiously. The owner lived in a rural area and I had to tow it over narrow, bumpy, rural paved roads for about 10 miles and mostly multi-lane secondary roads for the rest of the 120 miles. The TT tracked very well. I could feel the extra weight especially going over bumps, but those load leveling shocks made a huge difference. I was pleasantly surprised at how well the Durango brakes performed since the TT brakes were not operational. But, I still started braking well ahead of time. I was planning to install high performance brake discs and rotors, but now, don't think it is necessary.

If anyone wants to criticize me for towing without electric hookups, feel free. However, I felt that since I planned to drive very cautiously including braking well ahead of time, and take secondary roads (non-Interstate), it was not an excessive risk just to get it home.  Also, I had called my insurance carrier and got immediate coverage on the trailer.

After towing the TT for 120 miles, my first impression is that I chose a length and weight TT with a good margin of safety for my TV. However, I'm not sure if an anti-sway system is necessary. I plan to follow the previous owner's policy of not driving over 60 mph. I also don't plan to tow it on a windy day. And, I'll use the TT brake controller (to be installed) to straighten out any possible sway and in case of problems going down steep hills. I'd welcome any thoughts on this plan by veteran RVers.

Just a note that the previous owner used a special long lasting butyl tape for the seams instead of caulking. Looks a little ugly, but I like the concept of not having to re-caulk the seams every 2 or 3 years. He also recently repacked the TT wheel bearing.

If anyone is interested, I paid $4,000 for the TV and $3,800 for the TT. But, of course I spent considerable on the new receiver hitch, tires, shocks, ball insert, maintenance, etc. And, I'll spend more for the brake controller, wiring harness, etc. I'm also ordering an aftermarket rear view camera to make it easier to line up to the trailer hitch. At 420 lbs. you've got to be lined up perfect to hitch it up. Finally, the TT has only one battery which the owner advised won't last very long. I've got to figure out how to add more battery or batteries for dry camping. But, in the end, I think I'll have less than $9,500 invested in the TT & TV. Also, the TV is my daily driver. So, I'll have ongoing added costs of fuel for the TV, but still cheaper than having 2 vehicles. Again, I do all the maintenance, installation and repairs which saves big bucks on labor costs.

Here's a pic of the TT. The file was too big to include in my original post. Notice the tape on the roof and end seams. Like I said, kinda ugly, but effective.

That trailer certainly doesn't look it age. Wish I could say the same!

Good luck on your future adventures.

Here's a pic of the TV. Notice how the TV is raised in the rear giving it a raked appearance. That's due to the newly installed rear load leveling shocks. They are longer than the stock shocks and have a coil spring surrounding the body of the shock which raises the rear higher than the front. The 420 lb. tongue dropped the rear of the TV down to level with the front.

HappyWanderer said:

That trailer certainly doesn't look it age. Wish I could say the same!

Good luck on your future adventures.

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Same here!!! ha, ha!

I couldn't find any significant rust. Got all wet and dirty trying to crawling underneath with a flash light to check for frame rust only to find it's all enclosed underneath. But, I guess that's a positive.

I figure if I get a few years use out of it, the amortized cost is insignificant. But, I have seen some well built 1980's TT's still being used and giving the owners lots of pleasure.

Sounds like a smart way in how you were able to get setup for under 10k...
Good luck in your travels

Sounds like you did your homework!

Towing without brakes was unwise, but water under the bridge now.  Get a Prodigy TBC per many recommendations here.

The hitch wt sounds a bit low, unless it is published data.  I suggest getting the rig weighed and make SURE the hitch wt is at least 10% of the loaded trailer weight.  That really helps eliminate sway.

If the water temps consistently run high, you may look at replacing the radiator with a larger one.

ENJOY THE GREAT OUTDOORS!!

IBTripping said:

Here's a pic of the TV. Notice how the TV is raised in the rear giving it a raked appearance. That's due to the newly installed rear load leveling shocks. They are longer than the stock shocks and have a coil spring surrounding the body of the shock which raises the rear higher than the front. The 420 lb. tongue dropped the rear of the TV down to level with the front.

Click to expand...

The tow vehicle riding level is not what you have to worry about.  Adding weight at the rear hitch location will subtract weight from the front tires even if the vehicle is level because the rear axle acts like a fulcrum on a teeter-totter.  Even though the vehicle appears to be level, the front end is still lighter than it was without the trailer and this can cause control problems on slick surfaces.

420 lbs is the tongue weight of an empty trailer - it will go up as you add cargo into it.  Don't try to keep the hitch weight low as you add stuff into the trailer, insufficient hitch weight is the prime cause of sway and control problems.  Here's a short video demonstrating the issue:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jk9H5AB4lM

I suggest you invest in a weight distribution hitch.  The attitude of the tow vehicle should be the same with the trailer attached as without, so properly set up your Durango will ride tail-up unless you remove the overload springs and return the rear shock absorbers to the stock configuration.

As you tension the equalizing bars on the hitch they create a bridge across the hitch ball, pulling the hitch up while forcing the front of the vehicle down, transferring weight to the front end when the springs compress back to their normal ride height.  It also dampens the up and down pitching motion at the hitch, giving you a smoother ride.

If cost is a factor, Harbor Freight has their Haul Master brand equalizing hitch for $209.

https://www.harborfreight.com/10000-lbs-capacity-weight-distributing-hitch-61720.html

Congratulations for getting on the road at such a low price!  But don't skimp on safety items like the hitch and brake controller.

The TT came with a weight distribution hitch, but not an anti-sway system.  I'm sure the weight distribution hitch was a major factor in the comfortable tow home.

I ordered a 7 wire harness and a Prodigy P2 brake controller which just arrived. The previous owner told me he never had a sway problem, but never drove over 60 mph. I plan to do the same. I also don't plan to load up the TT to the max payload. Given the low weight of the trailer, how I set up the TV, and towing at a safe max speed, I don't think I'll have a significant sway problem. Also, if there's a stiff wind, I won't be towing that day. Plus, I do know that the brake controller can be used if a sway starts. While I'm on a tight budge, if I find that I'm wrong about the need for an anti-sway system, I'll immediately pull out the credit card and order one.

I've got a copy of the original brochure which has the weight specs. The published dry tongue weight is 420 lbs. but I realize it will be higher when loaded. The TT dry weight is 3,554 lbs. and max payload is 1,263 lbs. which makes a max gross weight of 4,817 lbs. So, if fully loaded, the tongue weight of 10-12% would be about 480 lbs. The trailer hitch I installed supports a max tongue weight of 600 lbs. with a weight distribution system, not that I ever want to test it. Also, I plan to follow the excellent advice from this forum to limit the amount in the water tank when towing.

This forum has been so helpful to me as I prepared to join the rv community.

We want you to be safe, too!  Your research has served you well.

One other comment is to get the rig weighed when loaded and ready to go camping.  You need 3 weights:
1.  Entire rig weight (GCW)
2.  Truck only with TT attached  (GVW of truck)
3.  Truck only without TT

Wt 2 minus wt 3 = tongue wt.
Wt 1 minus wt 3 = TT GVW

With this, you will know EXACTLY where you stand!

Congrats on getting what sounds like a great buy on a great setup. And like I told my wife, Good Looks are temporary but its what's under the skin that matters. That's how I got beauty to marry the beast, lol. I'm getting ready to use Eternabond tape on all my roof and end cap seals the next 60 degree day we have on the brand new camper. Keeping it dry keeps it from rotting and I'd rather have a rot free camper than a pretty one with soft damp wood inside.

Only suggestions I will make is get something for sway control, even if it's just a friction bar. While the best intentions of never towing on a windy day or adverse conditions or on a highway where a semi might cause some sway issue as he goes past you are all well and good, sometimes things are not always in your control. Calm days turn into windy ones, roads are closed and alternate routes are necessary. As the saying goes, "stuff happens". I've been towing either horse trailers or campers for 30 years as my pleasure hobbies of camping with and without horses. I can't tell you how many white knuckle moments I had before I learned what caused sway issues. I also can't tell you how many times someone else's actions forced me to take evasive action that might have turned into a vicious sway event had I not had sway control on the trailer. I think it's even more important when the trailer is approaching the limits of the TV.  I currently have a 9000 lb trailer loaded on a truck rated at 13000 lbs. And I still run a friction bar.

Another saying goes "Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it."

Good Luck, whatever you decide.

Congrats on the new ride and camper. Looking forward to future posts about your travels!

grashley said:

We want you to be safe, too!  Your research has served you well.

One other comment is to get the rig weighed when loaded and ready to go camping.  You need 3 weights:
1.  Entire rig weight (GCW)
2.  Truck only with TT attached  (GVW of truck)
3.  Truck only without TT

Wt 2 minus wt 3 = tongue wt.
Wt 1 minus wt 3 = TT GVW

With this, you will know EXACTLY where you stand!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I've put the TT to bed for the winter. But, I plan to weigh when the weather improves which is usually about March in this part of the country.

CincyGus said:

Congrats on getting what sounds like a great buy on a great setup. And like I told my wife, Good Looks are temporary but its what's under the skin that matters. That's how I got beauty to marry the beast, lol. I'm getting ready to use Eternabond tape on all my roof and end cap seals the next 60 degree day we have on the brand new camper. Keeping it dry keeps it from rotting and I'd rather have a rot free camper than a pretty one with soft damp wood inside.

Only suggestions I will make is get something for sway control, even if it's just a friction bar. While the best intentions of never towing on a windy day or adverse conditions or on a highway where a semi might cause some sway issue as he goes past you are all well and good, sometimes things are not always in your control. Calm days turn into windy ones, roads are closed and alternate routes are necessary. As the saying goes, "stuff happens". I've been towing either horse trailers or campers for 30 years as my pleasure hobbies of camping with and without horses. I can't tell you how many white knuckle moments I had before I learned what caused sway issues. I also can't tell you how many times someone else's actions forced me to take evasive action that might have turned into a vicious sway event had I not had sway control on the trailer. I think it's even more important when the trailer is approaching the limits of the TV.  I currently have a 9000 lb trailer loaded on a truck rated at 13000 lbs. And I still run a friction bar.

Another saying goes "Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it."

Good Luck, whatever you decide.

Click to expand...

Just to prove how much of a novice I am, I didn't realize that I could get a sway bar separate from the weight distribution hitch that it already has. So, as you suggested, I researched and found that  friction sway control devices are very inexpensive. Thanks for the excellent suggestion.

I can't add much to this thread other than what has already been said ^^^ ?, but !!..I would like to also agree with the post that mentioned having a friction sway bar !. I know you said you don't plan on driving over 60 mph ?, but !, how can you for-see ahead of time when it will be windy or not ?, if you can figure this out before pulling your camper and being right ?, you better rush out and buy a lottery ticket !..lol. semi-trucks push a lot of wind when they drive buy, and the last thing you want to go through..is your camper swaying all over the road on that one trip !!. as well as running into a windy area ?, yeah..buy a friction sway bar !. does not matter if your TT is light, short, long..what ever ?..you do not want to go through a swaying camper...ever !!. I pull my 22ft TT with my '00 Silverado , 5.3, 1/2 with towing package, class IV hitch ( I think that is whats on it ? ) rated for up to 10k with a WD hitch. I use my WD, as well as my sway bar ( friction bar ) that came with the WD hitch, safety chains, emergency  brake release cable all hooked up before I even think about pulling out of my drive way. as for the electric brake controller ?..yes..install one !, better to be safe than sorry !, haven't you heard ( and I know this for a fact..been there..done that ) all wrecks happen right down the road from your house !..lol. anyway..safe travels .