Replacing a Sealand toilet

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Shasta Bob

Shasta Bob

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Joined
Apr 14, 2017
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Location
Central Point, OR.
is there any suggestions on this subject I have never replaced cone in a rv. should I buy a taller one or replace with stock one. what is the time frame of the job any or ideas. ?
 
Taller or shorter is a matter of personal preference.  As far as replacing it with a different model, all bolt to the same toilet flange as a house toilet ... two nuts at the base, usually accessible from the sides, disconnect the water feed and the toilet lifts out.

Then it's just a matter of verifying the new toilet will fit in the space of the old one (some have longer bowls, etc.) and that the water line will reach the new toilet's inlet or extending it as needed - the water feeds aren't all in the same place.
 
Check that the bolts are in the same position as the old one on the new one. Otherwise the piping may change so be prepared to cope with that if necessary. This is also a good time to add a valve if it doesn't have one.

Ernie
 
I don't know how a valve is needed in an RV when you can shut off the pump or water hose and accomplish the same thing.  I've replaced several and its no big deal. Check the new base seal for correct fit when installing.>>>Dan
 
Utclmjmpr said:
I don't know how a valve is needed in an RV when you can shut off the pump or water hose and accomplish the same thing.  I've replaced several and its no big deal. Check the new base seal for correct fit when installing.>>>Dan
Click to expand...

It allows mother to continue using the water while you're out finding parts.
 
I recently replaced our toilet.

Pick the height / color / bowl YOU want.  Just make sure it will fit.  Measure from the wall to the toilet bolts and compare to the spec sheet on the new one - rarely an issue.  The Thetford and Domenic sites show many different models.  Foot flush or button hand flush.  Plastic or ceramic bowls.  Different styles.  Different flush mechanisms.  Different prices from around $100 to WOW.
If you have a door that swings past the existing bowl, make sure the door will clear the new bowl.  This really only applies if going to an elongated bowl AND a door swings close to the current bowl.
My inlet location changed, so I added an angle shut off valve and a flex hose for my connection.
*** NOTE ***  RV toilets take a standard household SINK CONNECTION, NOT a toilet connection.
The flange bolt size is not standard.  Either use the old flange bolts AND NUTS or replace the flange bolts with those included with the toilet and new nuts.
It took me half an hour to pull the old one and install the new one.
 
As mentioned above check CAREFULLY the bolt locations on the flange. Not all use the same pattern. I had to modify the flange, which was fixed in place in my trailer, to accommodate the new toilet when going from a Thetford to a Dometic model. I also had difficulty locating the correct flexible water pipe needed on the toilet valve end. That is probably what grashley is referring to above.
 
Alfa38User said:
As mentioned above check CAREFULLY the bolt locations on the flange. Not all use the same pattern. I had to modify the flange, which was fixed in place in my trailer, to accommodate the new toilet when going from a Thetford to a Dometic model. I also had difficulty locating the correct flexible water pipe needed on the toilet valve end. That is probably what grashley is referring to above.
Click to expand...
Stu, you are the one (I think) who guided me to the right toilet valve end, and you are right.  The flex line for a SINK for perfectly.
 
Glad I was able to help. I did not realize it was a sink fitting when I could not find what I needed at all the big box or hardware stores. I finally got one at a knowledgeable RV dealer who became upset with me for buying the replacement toilet on line. My wife sweet-talked him into helping!!

This is valuable information for anyone installing the Dometic version of a toilet at least.
 
Shasta Bob said:
is there any suggestions on this subject I have never replaced cone in a rv. should I buy a taller one or replace with stock one. what is the time frame of the job any or ideas. ?
Click to expand...
Shasta Bob
Why are you replacing a Sealand toilet?
 
have you cleaned and lubed your seal? if not that might be all it takes
for about $20.00 and a 1/2 hour ( one short beer) you can install a new seal
 
Shasta Bob said:
the bowl will not hold any water, for a long period water over a hour period will drain out.
Click to expand...

Try this. Shut the water off to the RV. Then open the toilet valve and using a green skotchbrite pad, clean the under side of the rubber seal.  Put a light coat of Vaseline or plumbers grease on the gasket. See if that works.
 
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