Where To Find STRUCTURE/FRAME plans To Floor On 2005 TRAVEL TRAILER

I have a 2006 Gulf Stream  Stream Lite Series M-19RBH

and I want to really secure the floor how do I find plans or how they constructed the framework below the subfloor inside the travel trailer.
I am gutting the complete insides and would like to really secure up the floor enough to hold an ATV inside.
Any help would greatly be appreciated.

You won't find that kind of info anywhere and certainly not from Gulfstream. You can try looking underneath after removing any sheeting or other covering under there.

If you are gutting, will you not expose the sub structure, making the frame location obvious?

How about a stud finder?  They usually work on a change in density, so they will see frame members under the sub floor.  Just make sure it did not locate a pipe!

My limited research shows that this unit is NOT a toy hauler, How do you plan to get an ATV inside?  Is it a 4 wheeler? 

You could always throw down some 1/2 marine plywood over the whole existing floor.

My guess is that the floor is most likely a structural foam panel. Two pieces of 1/8'' plywood laminated to each side of the foam with a floor joist  every 3 to 4 ft. The over all thickness around 2''.  You'll soon find out.

Tom

Thank you for all your imput, I'm going to redo the complete back wall, it was damaged pretty bad.
To make it easier I am going to make the new back door swing up and out I can make it light weight and then a ramp would be put on the back bumper and ATV driven into the camper.
They way 700 lbs each so 2 of them will be 1400 lbs.
I was thinking of doing the half inch marine plywood I would have to take the weight into consideration.
this whole project is going to be about pulling stuff out and weighing it and marking it in the book or when it's completely emptied out taking it to the local dump and getting it weighed.
It has two  3500 lb axles and as it is now it weighs 3200 lb
If I could strip it of about 500 pounds weight.
And then figure out what the half inch marine plywood weighs.
I will have an idea of what we Are talkin about but it should be no problem as it is two 3500 pound axles
GVW should be like 5500 maybe more so I figured I would have somewhere around a total combined paleo weight of less than 2200 lb
With those numbers I think I should be totally safe
When I mean gut it i mean the fridge is coming out toilet sink stove walls refrigerator I said that already.
Grill
It will basically be like a enclosed trailer with Windows
My big question is I have two air vents going to the top of the RV one is for I think clean water the other one is for dirty water.
I want to cut them and cap them at the floor.
Maybe down the road I would use the dirty water tank the black tank for storage of sewage
I would only have to open that cap upon draining the dirty black water
So the black water system could breathe.
The clean water shouldn't have a problem because she never empty it all at once or do I have it wrong and the gray water is with the other pipe is for okay so that's what the two pipes that run to the roof of four one is for the dirty black water and one is for the grey water .
Am I correct in that assumption ?

Both the fresh and waste water tanks require venting to allow water to flow in or out.  If you plan to cap off the black & gray tanks and not use them, obviously no vent is needed. You cannot, though, cap off the fresh tank vent if you expect to use it as a water supply for the pump.  It doesn't need a big vent and doesn't need to go to the roof, but some venting is necessary or you won't be able to move more than a couple gallons in or out.  A simple water hose (1/2" I.D.) will do the venting nicely and can be routed out of the way.  It only has to go a couple feet above the top of the tank.  The only "gotcha" to worry about is that the vent can become an overflow if you forget while filling the tank.  Yeah, I know, you would never make such a dumb mistake, but everybody does sooner or later. Make sure the open end of the vent hose is somewhere that water won't damage, when & if it happens.

If you are using fresh water, presumably you will have gray waste too. Again, that tank needs some sort of venting. 1.5" flex hose to someplace convenient. However, gray waste usually stinks a lot more than most people expect, so venting below the roof level can be obnoxious.

My concern is weight DISTRIBUTION.  Will this be an empty cargo trailer with windows?  Will the ATV weight be distributed across the axles?  You do not want 1400# of ATV behind the axles and no significant weight in front of the axles.  This will give you very low or negative tongue wt, which is a disaster waiting to happen.

No the first/front one will be slightly in front of the front Axel the second/back one will be slightly to the back of the back Axel and even some what a bit over the back Axel , there will always be positive Tung weight ALWAYS and furthermore I can fine tune the weight placement with other items going into the RV.
I Think I'm ok in that department .
I'm planning on down the road we using thethe brown water tank and the black water tank but at this point in time I will not be using them does anyone see a problem if I cut the pipe down from the roof and cap it off at the floors surface.
They are not full they will not be used I will just be capping them off solidly airtight as well.
if I was to use them in the future when I go to drain it I would have to open up those caps to let the air flow freely inside when emptying.
Does that sound correct?

if your gutting the old floor ?, then you will see the floor joist when you rip up the old decking. if it was me ? ( and I know its not ), you better put down 3/4 plywood instead of 1/2. atvs weight an average of at least 600 pounds ? ( most 450 or bigger cc's ) ( and I know this, because this is my hobby-restoring atvs ). 1/2 plywood will buckle over time. if you decide to use 1/2 anyway ?, then you better beef up the floor joist !. and of course, all this adds more weight. as for the tanks ?, I see no reason why you can't cap them off, but ! what if you REALLY need that toilet later down the road ?..hmmmm..lol.

I'd be careful about that "sealed tight". If you actually attain an air tight seal, then a change in elevation of only a few thousand feet wil blow up the tank!

Ernie

Ernie n Tara said:

I'd be careful about that "sealed tight". If you actually attain an air tight seal, then a change in elevation of only a few thousand feet wil blow up the tank!

Ernie

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good thinking !!. not only will elevation do that ?, but heat as well. wouldn't that be a mess !..lol.

That is a problem.
Thank you so much
Would it be possible from under the floor maybe there's a little bit of space before the tank and I can 90-degree it out towards the side of the RV.
Not being too familiar with RVs how much smell is generated from these vents I mean they would be on the top of the unit so eventually you would think wind could carry it down behind the RV or maybe I should just think about pulling the two tanks completely out?

I really would like to keep the tanks for future use so I've been thinking about it what do you guys all think about if between the tank and where it comes through the bottom of the floor if I cap that just below the cap I could put like a little purge valve just to valve into the pipe going vertical from the dirty water tank or end or the black water tank and put a little valve that water won't get in but air will come out

ATVSLEEPER said:

I really would like to keep the tanks for future use so I've been thinking about it what do you guys all think about if between the tank and where it comes through the bottom of the floor if I cap that just below the cap I could put like a little purge valve just to valve into the pipe going vertical from the dirty water tank or end or the black water tank and put a little valve that water won't get in but air will come out

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Is there a reason you can't rinse the tank out, and not worry about it?

Ok
At this point
There's a lot on rear roof damage about 2" in from the rear back wall I'm going to take the rear back wall completely off and create a wall that's light and open up from hinges on the back wall, so the question is should I build a support beam first the pull the back wall down ?
Then repair the rear roof

I would certainly support the roof!  The back wall is certainly a support structure!  It may not need to be 4X4 verticals holding up a 4X8 beam, but certainly some support is needed.