Strange Fresh Water Problem !#@!!

Hi All

I have previously used both my fresh water supply options without any problems - for several weeks.  That is, hooked up to city water, and from my fresh water tank with water pump working.  I recently traveled with about 1/3 tank of fresh water and used it for 3 days/nights without problem.  Wednesday, I hooked up to city water at the campground here in Rapid City, SD, at Americas Mailbox, where I'm staying while doing the domicile state thing, and visiting Black Hills.  I came back Friday evening after being gone for 6-7 hours, and my fresh water fill port was leaking water all over the place.  I opened the plug, and nothing actually seems to flow out, but it's like it's leaking around the housing, down the rig, and onto the ground.  I turned off the city water supply, and the leaking stopped.  That's the first strange thing.  Second strange thing is that the fresh water tank monitor now shows it FULL, even though I should have less than 20 gallons in the tank (80 gal capacity).

There is no switch I'm aware of that allows the fresh water tank to fill from the city supply input port.

I've left the city supply turned off, and have been using the fresh water tank/water pump without incident, but I don't understand HOW the city supply filled my fresh water tank!!!  Oh, and yes, I do have things hooked up to the correct fill ports.  There is a water pressure reducer on the city supply spigot.  Pretty sure things here work as they should as the Americas Mailbox owners live on-site in a Class A (at least currently).

What is this newbie missing here?  Anybody know what's going on? 
Many thanks
Linda

My last class A had a valve that switched the incoming water between the faucets and the holding tanks. Maybe you accidentally flipped the switch.

There's a check valve on your water pump that may be leaking by. That's one of those things that happens sometimes. Usually, a disassembly and cleaning will fix the problem.

Odds are you do have a valve somewhere may be called "QUICK FILL"..

And as the 2nd respondant said the water pump.

Side note: I have seen parks with low pressure. HIGH LIke 120 pSI HIGH pressure and over chlorinated water.

In all 3 cases the solution is to fill the on board tank and use the pump.. IN fact that is how I'm doing it full time now.

You might also review this topic, which discusses a similar problem.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,117772.msg1067289/topicseen.html#new

I have had that happened several times, always when my water pump was dying.  And it always happens when I am gone for the day or overnight.  Several times neighbors have had to turn the city water off to stop the flood.  And I have on my 6th water pump in a little over 6 years, believe it or not, so I am an expert at failing water pumps.  (My system has been checked several times and no one can find the problem, but I am certain there is an air leak somewhere in my water system.)  And I do use a pressure regulator, by the way.

What is probably happening is that there is a small or large hole in the water pump diaphram or somewhere alongside the diaphram that is allowing water to pass through when the city water is turned on.  Replacing the water pump immediately solved the problem.

My other problem is that if I do not use my water pump for several days because I am hooked up to city water, it loses its prime and be very, very hard to get working again, so I also almost entirely use my water tanks instead of hooking up to city water.

Probably a bad check valve in the water pump

Jack L

A typical flow diagram for a TT is  Fresh tank --> Pump  -->  Check Valve  -->  TEE  -->  camper
                                                  Shore water supply  --> Check Valve  -->  /^^  (to TEE)

The water flows only one direction due to the check valves, and the CV keeps water from leaking out of the other system.
If the CV on the pump output was leaking, you get exactly what you described.  Shore water flows to the TEE and goes BOTH directions.
Secondary CV can be added.  They usually are hose thread items, so you may need a couple fittings to connect into the pump lines.  Good news is CV and fittings are cheap, compared to a pump.

The pump CV is usually built into the pump head on the output side.

Thank you all for the helpful replies.  I woulda been back sooner but I spent the day playing at Custer State Park in the Black Hills, SD.  Gorgeous place.  Abundant wildlife, scarce people, outstanding weather, just the way I like it.  But, before I left I checked my owner's manual, and there is no switch for a quick fill scenario.  The pump is under the counter, behind a set of drawers, and I don't see anything leaking - as far as I can that is.  But, I can;t figure out how to remove the drawers to get complete access to the pump.  Can't find any release clip on the sliders.  I'll have to call the dealer/manuf tomorrow to find out how to access the pump completely.  I think the check valve is the most likely answer.  But, air leak ?? maybe also.

I was planning on leaving here Wed. morning, so hopefully I'll get it resolved before then.  I'm heading to Denver area on Fri or Sat, and if I need to, maybe I can cajole an Outdoors RV dealer to work me in.  Maybe they won't be swamped with service this time of year.  Meanwhile, the water flows fine and there is no outside flooding as long as city water is turned off.

Many thanks again for explaining the system, and the lead to other posts.  I'm learning.
Linda

But, I can;t figure out how to remove the drawers to get complete access to the pump.  Can't find any release clip on the sliders.

Click to expand...

Some just take a hard tug on both sides of the drawer when it is in the outermost position!! Most of mine are like that. (Don't pull of the front facing, it may just come off!!)

Alfa38User said:

Some just take a hard tug on both sides of the drawer when it is in the outermost position!! Most of mine are like that. (Don't pull of the front facing, it may just come off!!)

Click to expand...

Each glide on mine have a small plastic lever which needs to be depressed (up or down) and you need to hold them there then pull the drawer out of the glides. Sometimes they come out hard. You need to both at the same time.

Okay, I talked with the service dept. at dealer where I bought the RV, and they said the entire water pump needs replacing - the check valve is built into the unit so it's not replaceable.  It's under warranty, so I'll need to see a dealer in Denver as the closest place I'm gonna be.  They said if the dealer hassles me, to just call Outdoors RV and they'll take care of any resistance from the dealer.  The seal on the toilet needs replacing also - doesn't hold water, so I'll get that taken care of as well.  Also, I found out how to remove the drawers - there is a toothpick sized release on each side of the drawer and one has to go up and the other down to release.  They sure aren't noticeable!  Good to know for future reference.

So, thanks again.  I think all will be okay.  Now to get the logistics of Will and POA worked out while I'm here in Rapid City.  I'd sure like to be able to run up to Devils Tower while I'm in the neighborhood -- but business before pleasure!

Safe travels to all.
Linda

If the pump is any of the common Shurflo models, they certainly are repairable. The check valve is sold as a separate item for most models. But if it's in warranty and the dealer wants to replace the whole thing, let them. Just know that's usually not really needed later on if it happens on your dime.

NY_Dutch said:

If the pump is any of the common Shurflo models, they certainly are repairable. The check valve is sold as a separate item for most models. But if it's in warranty and the dealer wants to replace the whole thing, let them. Just know that's usually not really needed later on if it happens on your dime.

Click to expand...

And see if you can get the old pump. Keep it for a spare after you fix it. They may not give it to you because they may say it has to go back to the factory.

Good to know the ShurFlos can be repaired like that. I've used Aquajets for the last  16 years and they aren't repairable. On the other hand they don't ever seem to need repair either...

And the rest of the story . . .Denver Outdoors RV dealer was booking for late December.  That's not gonna work.  So I called the Service Dept. at the manufacturer who were incredibly  helpful.. They provided a dealer they had on a list (not ORV dealer), however, that one had an answering service and never returned my call.  Talked with manuf. again and he said just find someone and we'll work with them.  They can submit payment to us (ORV) or I can pay for it and get reimbursed from ORV.  They offered to ship me the pump if the repair dealer didn't have one. Gave me the part number to be sure.  First places I called in Denver area were booking for January 2019 (what's with the RV repair business? # @ % @!) but I found a nice shop where I'm gonna be near Loveland anyway (leaving South Dakota this Sat.).  I have an appt. on this Monday! 

So, this kinda reflects similar stories I've been reading for couple years here on the forum, and all and all I think it turned out pretty good with not too much hassle.  I'm booked at Flatiron Reservoir campground just west of Loveland for 5 days cause I was gonna visit old friends there anyway.  And if I have extra time, I'll run around the eastern foothills of the Rockies to see what kind of trouble I can get into.

Thanks again all.
Linda

I repaired my Shurflo by replacing the check valve. It was an easy fix. My pump was out of warranty but I emailed Shurflo about my problem and they offered to send my a repair kit at no cost.