Procedure for recharging/starting Motorhome after a year sitting.

We have a Fleetwood Discovery 2009. It had to sit for a year in storage and I'm sure all the batteries are dead even though we turned off the Main and Aux switches and turned off the "main highway".

What would be the correct procedure to get the motorhome up and running again? Put a charger on the main/chassis batteries and try to start? Jump it with a car? Charge the main batteries, start the generator to charge the house and maintain the main batteries to use them both to start the engine (we have an AUX start switch)?

Thank you.

First there are two DIFFERENT types of batteries (Out of 3 possible types) for a motor home

The chassis battery is likely a STARTING battery  I would charge using a charger in the 10-20 amp range  YOu may need to use a "Dumb charger" for like a an hour then switch to a "Smart" charger

I use a 2/20/70 amp Deltran Battery tender.. 70 is for jump starting cars.

IT will auto switch from 20 to 2 when batteried are full

The starting battery may have been seriously damaged if it is very dead.. So.. You may need to replace it.

The house batteries. Same charger.. But you may not have to replace. .The odds of recovery though not as high are better.. That is they are 6Volt deep cycle pairs (two in series giving 12 volt) If they are MARINE/Deep cycle the odds are not nearly as good.

That's a diesel right? If it is, I don't think you'll be able to jump start it from a car. First take the chassis  batteries out of the coach and check that the plates in the cells are covered by electrolyte. Don't fill the cells, just cover the plates. Then put a charger on each battery and charge it for 48 hours. Then take the batteries to an auto parts store and have them tested.  If the batteries pass, put them in the coach and see if you can start it.

Oh before you try starting it, check all the fluids.

John From Detroit said:

First there are two DIFFERENT types of batteries (Out of 3 possible types) for a motor home

The chassis battery is likely a STARTING battery  I would charge using a charger in the 10-20 amp range  YOu may need to use a "Dumb charger" for like a an hour then switch to a "Smart" charger

I use a 2/20/70 amp Deltran Battery tender.. 70 is for jump starting cars.

IT will auto switch from 20 to 2 when batteried are full

The starting battery may have been seriously damaged if it is very dead.. So.. You may need to replace it.

The house batteries. Same charger.. But you may not have to replace. .The odds of recovery though not as high are better.. That is they are 6Volt deep cycle pairs (two in series giving 12 volt) If they are MARINE/Deep cycle the odds are not nearly as good.

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Thank you for this. FYI, there are two chassis batteries, 6volt wired in series. Do I need to charge each one separately or can I put the charger cables on one and it will charge both?

thank you

rrfpacker said:

Thank you for this. FYI, there are two chassis batteries, 6volt wired in series. Do I need to charge each one separately or can I put the charger cables on one and it will charge both?

thank you

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If you have a charger that can be set for 6v it's preferable to charge separately in case one has an issue such as a shorted cell which could affect the charging of the good battery. That said, you can charge both at once by leaving them connected in series, then connecting the charger to the free post of each battery, setting the charger for 12v.

Are these the original batteries?  If so, or if the starting batteries are more than a few years old, I'd just plan on replacing them.
On the plus side, a pair of 6 volt batteries are a lot easier to get in and out than a single large 12 volt battery.

Or you may be pleasantly surprised since you turned off the disconnects.  The batteries will certainly be down some but they may not be completely discharged.

I'd put a voltmeter on each set of batteries and and see if they show voltage.  Or look at the house and chassis voltmeters.  If they show voltage, a pair of jumper cables to a running car should let you start the generator so the converter can charge the house batteries.  Then you can use the Aux Start switch to get the main engine going.

If you decide to keep the batteries, I'd take the rig to an auto parts store or battery shop and let them load test them to see if they've lost capacity while sitting in storage.

I seriously doubt if the two 6v batteries are the chassis (engine start) batteries.  A diesel usually has two batteries to start the engine, but both would be large 12v cranking-type batteries.  The 6v batteries are usually GC2 (golf car) deep cycle batteries intended to power the house 12v system.

After a year, I would use an external charger to attempt charging the 12v chassis batteries. First, check the electrolyte level as ChasA suggests and add distilled (mineral free) water as needed).  Chances are, though, they are not worth trying to save, especially if they are already several years old.

Once you get the engine/chassis batteries charged (or replaced), start the engine and let it run 30-40 minutes. It should provide some charge to the house batteries, plus you should be able to start the generator. Check the electrolyte level in the house 6v batteries and add distilled water if needed.  With the genset running, the house converter/charger to begin charging the house batteries, but it will probably take 24 hours or more to reach full charge (if ever). If possible, drive the coach to someplace with a power outlet so you can plug in rather than using the genset for 24+ hours non-stop. A 145A or 20A household outlet should be enough for battery charging only .

rrfpacker said:

Thank you for this. FYI, there are two chassis batteries, 6volt wired in series. Do I need to charge each one separately or can I put the charger cables on one and it will charge both?

thank you

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Actually you have a single 12 volt chassis battery. Spilt into two halves for easier handling.

There is (Electrically and electronically) no difference between two six volt batteries in series and say a 4D 12 volt battery.. Both are 12 volts. Both about 220 amp hours.  Treat the pair as a single battery

Charge it as a single 12 volt battery
If one goes bad. Assume the other is as well and replace 'em both.

Just to be clear Gary had a typo that should be 15 amp household outlet not 145 amp


When charging a pair of 6 volt batteries wired in series with a 12 volt charger, the charger cables should be connected to the positive and negative sides of the pair, not to the positive and negatives of each individual battery.

So  positive 12v charger cable / + 6V Battery - / inter battery jumper cable / + 6V Battery - / negative charger cable 

I hope that makes sense

Also, if you are planning on taking the batteries out for any reason, take out your phone and take a couple of pictures from above the batteries of how they are wired. Might really help when putting the batteries back in. If you can, in the future have your coach plugged in, even if for a year or more. No harm in doing this, just have to check the fluid levels in the batteries. Or even invest in a solar panel for charging

Bill

billwild said:

Also, if you are planning on taking the batteries out for any reason, take out your phone and take a couple of pictures from above the batteries of how they are wired. Might really help when putting the batteries back in. If you can, in the future have your coach plugged in, even if for a year or more. No harm in doing this, just have to check the fluid levels in the batteries. Or even invest in a solar panel for charging

Bill

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That's been the problem, there isn't any way to plug the motorhome in while in storage. This year we couldn't even get there to start every couple of months, hence our dilemma. We are just trying to get it started so we can get it to a place to check out the batteries. I doubt I can get the batteries out even if I could disconnect, the storage unit is very narrow.

Thank you.

Isaac-1 said:

Just to be clear Gary had a typo that should be 15 amp household outlet not 145 amp


When charging a pair of 6 volt batteries wired in series with a 12 volt charger, the charger cables should be connected to the positive and negative sides of the pair, not to the positive and negatives of each individual battery.

So  positive 12v charger cable / + 6V Battery - / inter battery jumper cable / + 6V Battery - / negative charger cable 

I hope that makes sense

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I was wondering about this, too. Thank you.

Is it stored outdoors, perhaps somewhere that you could use a solar charger kit like this placed inside the windshield while parked facing south https://smile.amazon.com/DOKIO-Monocrystalline-Foldable-Charge-Controller/dp/B0748FYFSK

Isaac-1 said:

Is it stored outdoors, perhaps somewhere that you could use a solar charger kit like this placed inside the windshield while parked facing south https://smile.amazon.com/DOKIO-Monocrystalline-Foldable-Charge-Controller/dp/B0748FYFSK

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No, it's inside. And with no outlets. It's the worst of all possibilities and if we can't get there to start it once in a while like this year we are pretty much up a creek.

if you can check all the fluid levels do that than call a truck towing company they should have cables long enough to jump start the coach good luck

      We stored our RV outside behind our summer home, and did not use it for 3 years until we decided to sell it.  It would sit for 8 to 9 months, with temps down to zero F for several months.  Every year when we returned to the cottage, i would flip the emergency switch, and it started every time.  So, before you do anything, check the electrolyte levels, hold down the emergency start button, and give it a try, you may just be lucky enough for it to start.  However, the coach has 2 chassis 12 volts and 2 6 volt coach batteries.

Ed

rrfpacker, let us know how you make out with the coach. Interested minds would like to know.


Bill

billwild said:

rrfpacker, let us know how you make out with the coach. Interested minds would like to know.


Bill

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I will. Even now, three weeks later, we haven't been back to try.

I would do exactly as ED said. Top of the batteries if needed and try starting it. You've got nothing to loose.

Before starting it up, I'd remove the spark plugs and shoot a little motor oil into the cylinder. After that, I'd spin the engine with the plugs out. The movement of the piston and rings in the cylinder will spread the lubricant all over the pistons and cylinder wall. Then I'd replace the plugs (after cleaning) and start up. You'll get some blue oil smoke at first. Also, be sure you're starting it with FRESH gas, not gas that's been sitting for however long. When you pull up to store it for the winter, I'd get out there and eat up as much gas as I could before storing.

Another idea is pickling the engine if it's going to be sitting. There are a lot of published ways but the simplest way is to fill the enging up with oil. Not in the coolant pathways, but fill the crankcase until the cylinders are completely filled with oil. The oil will prevent corrosion of the crank, main and rod bearings, rings and cylinder walls. When you're ready to drive it again (or sell it), the engine won't display any troubles. This applies to ALL internal combustion engines, cars, trucks, aircraft, etc. I did my learning about this on an airplane. But it applies to the tiniest IC engine, to the biggest kerosene burning jet aircraft engine you can ever find, pickling is pickling. Pickle your engine over the winter.