Andersen Hitch Issue - Has Anybody Had This Happen ?

So I am new to the forum, if this topic has been covered I apologize.

So I have a 2015 Ford F250 with a Reese under the bed rail kit.  I tow a Puma Fifth Wheel Model 351 THSS.  I have the Andersen Ultmate Gooseneck Mount Fifth Wheel Hitch. 

I pulled my camper this weekend for the first time with this vehicle.  When I got to my campsite and unhooked the camper I went through all my recently installed hard ware.  I really dodged a bullet.  I found the Reese Gooseneck ball pulled from the receiver!!  Some how the ball bearings had slipped out their holes.  Has anyone ever heard of this?  Does anyone else tow with this set up?

I left my camper sitting in storage until I can resolve this.

I contacted Reese and Al (the tech on the phone) said this will happen with the upward pre-load placed on the ball with the Anderson Hitch.  While this may be their claim I see all sorts of videos on youtube where people are using puck style balls with the Andersen. 

I contacted Andersen and they said they had never heard of this issue, was not aware of Reese's stance, and would research it.  They were supposed to get back to me, but I have yet to hear from them.

I know the ball bearings were seated when I installed the Andersen as I torqued the unit's top bolt to 60 ft lbs.  It would have never tightened down to the bed if the ball bearings were not seated.

I have inspected the ball and when the top key is "locked in" the ball bearings cannot be compressed.  I am leery of using this system again until I find a smoking gun.  I also fear something inside the ball had to mechanically yield to all the ball to come out.  The receiving portion of the under the bed gooseneck looks immaculate. 

I did re-couple the camper and raised my landing gear in attempts to replicate the problem.  Everything stayed intact.  Grant you this does not compare to the dynamic "bouncing" nature that occurs whens actually towing.

Any insight or comments would be appreciated. 

Thank you.

I?m not familiar with the Reese you have, but I do have an Anderson. This sounds like maybe an issue with your Reese. How does that system work? Does the Ball typically just pull out?

I have a turnover ball system. I have a pin that gets unpatched to remove the ball.

I am trying to attach pics...not sure if it worked.  There are two ball bearings that cog in to holes in the receive.  There is a key in the top of the ball that engages the ball bearings.

I have a 2013 F350 with the factory gooseneck ball.  I use the Andersen Ultimate hitch.

I am a bit confused by the  "under bed rail kit"  .  I do not use the rails.  I attach to the ball.

My ball mounts in a hole with the key on top of the ball.  I have no idea where any bearings may be located in the ball.

I install the ball and the key drops into place. I mount the Andersen, which attaches to the ball and pulls up on the ball as part of the installation, as you noted.  I have never had any issues at all.  I love the hitch!

Your picture problem is likely the file size is too large.  I have an Apple and use Resize Lite.  It is a free app that works very well to resize picture files so they can be attached here.

Good Luck finding a resolution!

My truck did not come with a hitch set up.  The under the bed rail kit is an aftermarket kit made by Reese.  Your truck probably came from Ford with an under the bed rail kit.  Your gooseneck ball should have 2 ball bearings on each side of the ball shank.

I will check in to the resizing app.

Do you know if your ball is a Curtis or Reese?

I have a Curt ball, and I always wonder if the proper set of bumps and vibrations could actually pull up the lever on the gooseball and let it loose.

Here are some pics of my set up

@ Senator after having this happen it sure makes you want a pin style ball versus the ball bearing.

I will also add, I have never towed with a hitch as smooth as the Andersen.  It was impressive.  Very smooth Light weight yet tough.  Easy to hook up.  I just bought it.  I am not sure it can be returned.  I don't want to go back to a traditional fifth wheel but I might have to.

eddytimeddy said:

@ Senator after having this happen it sure makes you want a pin style ball versus the ball bearing.

Click to expand...

I have thought about a piece of duct tape on the lever, but so far I have not done it.  I should do it next time.

Senator said:

I have a Curt ball, and I always wonder if the proper set of bumps and vibrations could actually pull up the lever on the gooseball and let it loose.

Click to expand...

So, I kind of thought the same thing. Here?s something to try. Next time you?ve got the Anderson installed and torqued down, try pulling the lever yourself. I did, and it wouldn?t even budge. The vertical force the Anderson must put on it is enough to keep it from coming undone. Try for yourself, your mileage may vary.

ip076 said:

So, I kind of thought the same thing. Here?s something to try. Next time you?ve got the Anderson installed and torqued down, try pulling the lever yourself. I did, and it wouldn?t even budge. The vertical force the Anderson must put on it is enough to keep it from coming undone. Try for yourself, your mileage may vary.

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I could be wrong here, but I dont think your suggestion is possible on a Reese or Curt.  You cannot get to the lever on on a curt or reese as after the Andersen is installed as the release lever is on top of the ball and the Andersen blocks access.  This method would work work with a Pin style ball such as a B and W.

ip076 said:

So, I kind of thought the same thing. Here?s something to try. Next time you?ve got the Anderson installed and torqued down, try pulling the lever yourself. I did, and it wouldn?t even budge. The vertical force the Anderson must put on it is enough to keep it from coming undone. Try for yourself, your mileage may vary.

Click to expand...

See attched, the release key is on top.

eddytimeddy said:

I could be wrong here, but I dont think your suggestion is possible on a Reese or Curt.  You cannot get to the lever on on a curt or reese as after the Andersen is installed as the release lever is on top of the ball and the Andersen blocks access.  This method would work work with a Pin style ball such as a B and W.

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You cannot access the lever when it is hooked up.  I need to hookup today, so maybe I will just try and see if manually pulling on it makes it difficult.  I think it's near impossible for the lever to lift and turn, but I have thought about it.

The Andersen exerts a fair amount of upward pull on the ball. Sounds like that upward pull is actually overpowering the ball's internal mechanism and allowing the ball bearings to squeeze inward. Depending on how the internal mechanism is set up, I wonder if it's possible for the ball bearings to push inward causing the release lever to push up as well?

For you guys with the Anderson hitch, have you ever manually inserted the ball in the socket and see how much in and out movement there is even with the Anderson lever mechanism locked?  If there is movement, maybe there is clearance above his key and there is enough pressure against the balls which opens the key allowing the balls to compress.

Never thought about it...I just checked and the tube is hollow all the way up so there's probably 3" or so above the ball.

Joe, so you're saying that the top of the ball doesn't touch anything if I read you correctly. If that's the case, sounds like the key is now moving up the about 5/8" because there is all kinds of space then the balls retract.
The standard hitch for a ball is a actual cup so the key could not open. Where's they pressure pulling up with pressure on the balls, the balls may be raising the key which would normally be captured by a solid cup.

Typically, this ball wouldn't see these type of forces only front to back and the balls do very little other than keeping the shank of the ball in the sleeve.

Thanks for the pix.  I have the same ball.  I took "ball bearings" as small balls used for rotational forces. 

You may have a faulty ball. It should not release while under load.  As I said, I have not had that problem, and your 60 lb-ft of torque is clearly NOT excessive.

grashley said:

Thanks for the pix.  I have the same ball.  I took "ball bearings" as small balls used for rotational forces. 

You may have a faulty ball. It should not release while under load.  As I said, I have not had that problem, and your 60 lb-ft of torque is clearly NOT excessive.

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Gordon you use the words "under load".  The load on that style ball typically is horizontal and not vertical.  Using that ball while towing a gooseneck trailer wouldn't see any vertical load I don't think. Maybe a call to the manufacturer of the ball and ask them what amount of vertical lift that ball was designed to take.