Converting RV fridge for residential use

Hi, I figured this would be the place to ask. I work in an automotive warehouse so I get an employee discount on RV products. So, my question is this. Would I be able to buy an RV fridge for my house? I tried to look online for any information but all I could see was converting a residential fridge for an RV, not the other way around. Does anyone know?

I think you will find that a residential Fridge is much less expensive than a RV Fridge as well as larger and has a housing that works better.

Some years ago our truck shop had a salvaged RV fridge running on AC in the employees lounge using a small 12-volt gel cell battery and trickle charger for the controls. It worked ok, but certainly not something we would have bought for the purpose. It eventually died and was replaced with a residential fridge.

Sure. Back in the day, many homes had absorption fridges and there are 50 year old Servel absorption fridges still running today.

All you need is a 12v power supply (the fridge circuit board requires 12v power, probably less than 5A max, and a 120v outlet to plug it in. No LP gas required unless you want to use LP instead of electric (and that requires venting and fire safety concerns is indoors).  You might want to make some sort of cabinet for it and insulate around the sides, but that is optional and mostly cosmetic.

Frankly, though, you can probably get a compressor-type fridge cheaper and it will use less electric power besides.  You can buy small compressor fridges for $80-$150,  medium size (7-10 cu ft) "apartment" fridges for$200-$300, and larger ones from $300 up.  And buy them from a variety of sources with no special  discounts for those prices.

Ok .. how to convert an RV Fridge to residential use and the reason you might or might not.

First build a cabinet for it or slip it into an existing cabinet the proper size.  This is all woodwork.
YOu might wish to build a pedestal for it to sit on (Put a drawer under it)  Make sure it has proper ventilation  both top and bottom.    Make sure you can access the back side as well.

Suggestion put a door with vents behind it so you can simply go outside. unlock the door (No knob just a pin tumbler lock) and work on it if needed.

You need a 12 volt system. I'd suggest a Group 24 MARINE/deep cycle. with a SMALL  3 stage converter (20 amps max) Or even a solar charger.. I would suggest adding a few 12 volt lights about the house as "power fail lighting" as well. Use LED's  (I actually had this in my house when I had one)

That's about it.. Optional feed propane to the thing for power fail cooling (The advantage)

The disadvantage... COST.. The RV fridge draws about 350 watts when run on A/C.. a like size compressor unit 100 or 100 and change (more starting) or in some cases as low as 40.

Option 2: Dometic and Norcold both make Compressor driven units for RV's that are in the 40 watt range.. Now those.. I like  Instructions are the same save for the propane. Use a bigger 12 volt battery if worried about power fail (Like a pair of GC-2) if not worried about pwoer fail I'm not sure if they need 12 volts. but if they do a small power supply (Say 50-10 amps) most electronics or Ham Radio shops have those very well regulated or a Progressive Dynamics 91xx (Smallest xx) add charge wizard IF you add battery.