General camper questions

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
1

1930

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Posts
335
Im really excited on my camper, I know I am going to enjoy it. I have some general easy to answer questions I will post here. Thanks

1- Why is this thing in my camper behind the fridge. Im not familiar so much with its use https://postimg.cc/gwffjD5S



I found my converter last night https://postimg.cc/CBk9q8pF  https://postimg.cc/kRCzF57W 

2 - Is its only role to convert 120 to 12 volt and to also charge my batteries?

3 - Why is thing thing https://postimg.cc/MccCz4sf in floor. I believe a steel post goes in it to support a table but I already have a support for my table https://postimg.cc/pm1NbxBt


4 - This https://postimg.cc/Z9B6jFRh is how my door stays open now, just push it on the metal pin, I dont believe that is the way its supposed to work.

I believe this https://postimg.cc/jWpP1wwn is the original latch system.

Can someone tell me what that first pin is supposed to be there for and if the correct ( whatever is missing ) part is still avail too hold the door open?

Id like the correct original style parts if possible
 
1930 said:
Im really excited on my camper, I know I am going to enjoy it. I have some general easy to answer questions I will post here. Thanks

1- Why is this thing in my camper behind the fridge. Im not familiar so much with its use https://postimg.cc/gwffjD5S
An inverter takes 12-volt DC power from your RV batteries and electronically changes it to 120-volt AC.


I found my converter last night https://postimg.cc/CBk9q8pF  https://postimg.cc/kRCzF57W 

2 - Is its only role to convert 120 to 12 volt and to also charge my batteries? Yes

3 - Why is thing thing https://postimg.cc/MccCz4sf in floor. I believe a steel post goes in it to support a table but I already have a support for my table https://postimg.cc/pm1NbxBt
Old Table support, take it out if you wish, plug the holes with caulk


4 - This https://postimg.cc/Z9B6jFRh is how my door stays open now, just push it on the metal pin, I dont believe that is the way its supposed to work.
Hard to say

I believe this https://postimg.cc/jWpP1wwn is the original latch system.
That is the old bottom latch for a role out awning.  The support posts connected to it.

Can someone tell me what that first pin is supposed to be there for and if the correct ( whatever is missing ) part is still avail too hold the door open?
Mine has a latch system, similiar to this https://www.makariosrv.com/entry-door-holder-white-6-e235/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=41477300408&gclid=CjwKCAjwsfreBRB9EiwAikSUHbNMcZLUKvRMKh4_4PlmeaYpAPMxy4v-mZcAtV7jBS1c0I7CyeDAuhoCP8kQAvD_BwE

Id like the correct original style parts if possible, good luck with that  :)
Click to expand...
 
Either one of those door latches was common on trailers back in the day. Some still use them.

The pin type simply friction-fits into a rubber socket. You push the door until the ball on the in snaps into the socket and pull the door to free it.

Here's an example:
https://www.etrailer.com/Enclosed-Trailer-Parts/Polar-Hardware/PLR64-66.html

The pins come in various lengths and the sockets can be rebuilt with new rubber if you have the old one.
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Enclosed_Trailer_Parts-pc-Door_Holder.aspx
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
Either one of those door latches was common on trailers back in the day. Some still use them.

The pin type simply friction-fits into a rubber socket. You push the door until the ball on the in snaps into the socket and pull the door to free it.

Here's an example:
https://www.etrailer.com/Enclosed-Trailer-Parts/Polar-Hardware/PLR64-66.html

The pins come in various lengths and the sockets can be rebuilt with new rubber if you have the old one.
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Enclosed_Trailer_Parts-pc-Door_Holder.aspx
Click to expand...

Thanks, Ill look for signs of the old socket, either way Ill order a new deal. Cheap enough and prob guaranteed not to rust for 6 days
 
I would be wary of that cheap inverter behind the refrigerator, I suspect it was installed to allow the residential style refrigerator to operate while in transit off of the batteries, which is a valid option if you are going to be on the road for 5-8 hours between stops with electricity so as to keep the ice cream from melting.  Just be aware that inverters suck down a lot of power and will quickly drain a typical RV deep cycle battery (a few hours).

Also that appears to be a cheap no name import inverter, which may be a fire hazard, over the years I have seen more than one of those cheap inverters fail in a thermally spectacular fashion.
 
Isaac-1 said:
I would be wary of that cheap inverter behind the refrigerator, I suspect it was installed to allow the residential style refrigerator to operate while in transit off of the batteries, which is a valid option if you are going to be on the road for 5-8 hours between stops with electricity so as to keep the ice cream from melting.  Just be aware that inverters suck down a lot of power and will quickly drain a typical RV deep cycle battery (a few hours).

Also that appears to be a cheap no name import inverter, which may be a fire hazard, over the years I have seen more than one of those cheap inverters fail in a thermally spectacular fashion.
Click to expand...

Stupid question but wouldnt I need one if I plan on playing a radio or watching a TV with no generator or hook-up?

I understand this one is a cheap P.O.S and I wont use it
 
Yes inverters are good to have, just be aware they can suck down your batteries quickly and that quality matters.  Preferably get a pure sine wave model from a reputable company.  Also bigger is not always better as the bigger the inverter the more power it draws at idle.
 
While the Vector Maxx is a low-priced inverter, I would not consider it an inherent fire danger. Modern electronics have made inverters relatively inexpensive and the designs are commonplace in text books and college courses, so cheap isn't necessarily bad.

Here's a similar looking Maxx inverter:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LO6-cE7Q7b4

https://invertersrus.com/product/vector-vec053d/
 
That converter looks like it may deserve an upgrade.. However before I actually recommend it I suggest if you have flooded wet cell batteries you check them often. if you have a sealed battery put a volt meter on it. if you see the voltage going to say 14 volts.. You need to upgrade the converter. Progressive Dynamics 9200 (if the converter is a stand alone) 4600 if it's part of the power distribution panel.

Refrigerators:  I did not see one but they come in 2.x types.  One is residential. these run on 120 volts and work just like the one in your residence (House) the other is an RV "Absorption Cooling Unit" type. these run on usually Propane or Electric (Mine is on propane just now) and on electric some run on 12 volt or 120 volt (DO NOT USE THE  12 volt option) some ... Well Some older models may work entierly off propane.. MOst now days use 12 volts for control. though not for cooling.

Basically just turn 'em on 24 hours before you fill 'em up.

Since you seen now.. Two books. Pick one. they have much the same information

The RV owner's handbook
The RV book
ONE (I forget which) is a woodalls/good sam publication you can find at Camping World. Most better RV dealers will have one or the other.. Some of the info in them is better than my Owner's manuals. NONE is worse.. All is "Generic" less you get lucky as I did and he used the same model ____ I had to demonstrate.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 981 (members: 30, guests: 951)

Forum statistics

Threads
131,929
Posts
1,387,697
Members
137,678
Latest member
David W.
Back
Top Bottom