Overhead Electronics Cabinet - Heat

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PancakeBill

PancakeBill

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Joined
Apr 9, 2005
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Location
Benson , AZ.
The cabinet over the windshield area that typically will have a TV and / or the Sat receiver, the box of many buttons, DVD player etc.  Gets heat from roof and from electronics,  has anyone figured a way of reducing the heat up there?  I was considering an exhaust fan or something, but since pretty much all coaches have the same design, is it really an issue?  and. where would I send the heat? 

My next thing is to rid myself of the box of many buttons,  I have a DVD and a Sat box up there, both are HDMI output to the TV, the TV can switch between, we eliminated the bedroom TV so no need for a switch to that cable.  It is a Winnebago, so has the box with the inverter, the many button switch antenna amp switch and a speaker switch,  Don't really have a use for any of these items, so out it goes.

 
The first thing I'd check is the insulation (If any) between the rear of the cabinet and the fiberglass front cap.  When I removed the TV in my Damon Intruder motorhome, the enclosure had no rear wall and I could see the fiberglass front cap behind it.  The two storage cabinets on either side of the TV were only wooden boxes, also without insulation between them and the front cap.
 
That satellite box is a major heat producer, of course, and I think many of those overhead boxes aren't designed for that level of heat. On rare occasion I've had the DirecTV box shut down from heat, but opening the door relieves that after while.

There are two options I can think of for cooling: Leave the door open - I do this when the sun is shining on the coach from the front, and especially if the outside temp is high. Or add one or more small fans -- shouldn't take too much to provide excellent exhaust for cooling, assuming the cabinet isn't sealed too tightly for air to move through.

On the Ventana I usually open the door, but the Beaver had a fan in the box, with an exhaust vent in the side of the box. It helped, but still got hot in there sometimes, so an open door helped if needed.
 
I would keep the BOMB (Box of many buttons) It has one "Hidden" Function you may find you need. I no longer need that function but you may (It powers the pre-amp that is built into the OTA TV antenna.  Many think the wall plate (you do not have) is the pre-amp but it's not. it is the power supply and switch. the pre-amp is topside. inside the ANTENNA head).

Now I have two of those cabinets. One contains the DVD player. BOMB. House Radio. and some other junque (Forget what) I did nothing  but may someay update the door. more on that on the other side

That contained the Sat Receiver when I used Sat and man did that puppy put out the BTUs (Heat)

SO I drilled a series of 5: holes in the back. One in the side (Mounted a muffin fan. or computer fan over that with a "Disc" Thermostat I think 90 degrees) and then changed the "Glass" (Ok Tinted plastic) "Window" in the door for black anodized (You could also use black nylon) Screen. My local hardware made the screen insert for me..  I'll do the same on the other side.

I put a center "Rib" (vertical) in the middle of the wide screen. Do not know if needed but it rattled till I layed a bead of GOOP down it and stuck the screen to it. NYLON would not have rattled.

Now I have great ventilation in that box.
 
B=Not sure I need the BOMB, I have the OTA adapter for Dish, the roof antenna plugs into it.  I am considering the King antenna to replace, our batwing is original, works fine, except for crank which likes to hang and pop when lowering.  Not in itself a reason to replace, but a lower unit with clean connections would be nice.  Not going for the auto unit, we have SAT, so just filling in the locals.

My wall outlet has power going to it, you say it originates the BOMB?  Hmmm, have to look. 

There is a small hole in the side of cabinet, going into where the big TV was.  and that is vented forward to the windshield are forward.  I am thinking a muffin fan and thermostat. 

The Winnebago has a nice steel box these comoponents live in, I am thinking removing it, if I can find all the screws.  Or at least, redesign the front cover to house equipment. 
 
Here is the fan I got for our entertainment center
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009COAEUG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also got this controller
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NG9TSG4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The controller will control up to four fans if I remember right. Everything runs off USB so if there is a USB connector on the Dish receiver you can plug it in there. If no USB jack is available, it comes with a USB wall wart.
 
ON mine the box is wooden. you can still drill steel if it's not too thinck.

But if there is a door with a window to shoot I/R codes through (There should) replace the solid window with a screen.. I just took the plexaglass (I think) window to the hardware and took home a screen (Along with the plex) lots of air flow  THe holes in the back were optional.
 
Don, I was searching eBay earlier and that is what I came up with.  will order.  John, that might be a good idea too, will think about it.  Maybe find a good looking screen.
 
PancakeBill said:
I am considering the King antenna to replace, our batwing is original, works fine, except for crank which likes to hang and pop when lowering.  Not in itself a reason to replace, but a lower unit with clean connections would be nice.  Not going for the auto unit, we have SAT, so just filling in the locals.
Click to expand...
PancakeBill
I found that the Jack antenna by King Controls is nowhere near as good for OTA TV reception, (especially from long range/far away stations), as the now 22 year old Winegard batwing antenna on my '96 Coach.
 
mel s said:
PancakeBill
I found that the Jack antenna by King Controls is nowhere near as good for OTA TV reception, (especially from long range/far away stations), as the now 22 year old Winegard batwing antenna on my '96 Coach.
Click to expand...

I think you put this in the wrong topic, Mel...
 
I have Dish with a 211k receiver that is known to over heat and loose audio until it cools.  It also has a USB plug in the back of the receiver.  I bought a dual fan that are only connected by a single USB cable that I plug into the receiver.  I point one to blow air in and the other fan to blow air out of the cabinet. 

My next step is to change out the class front panels with punched tin with a design to use the fans with the doors closed.  I got the fans off eBay real cheap.

Works very well for my rig.
 
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