Insulating around perimeter during winter

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ericsky

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Nov 7, 2018
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I've mostly decided that for the cost to use the technique someone mentioned in the following thread, using 'Foil faced polyisocyanurate foam sheathing' from my local home improvement chain Menards on my 33' fleetwood Southwind.  My question is which thickness between the .5"-2" in 1/4" increments?  I'll be inside a dirt floor pole building and plan to cut the 4' x 8' panels to fit the 16" height from ground to lower edge of basement storage doors, front/rear bumpers and wheel openings.  Then I'll use 2-3 low and safe heat sources like trouble lights with incandescent bulbs placed around underneath with the panels foil side in.  I'll attach the panels with either packing tape or preferably velcro to remove them when I need to drive out for propane or the neighbors for water.  After returning from a trip end of Nov., I'll be here during Dec. and then return for a week to 10 days a couple times through March.  Of course I'll empty water while gone.  Thought, ideas, experiences are welcome.  Thanks!

http://www.rvforum.net/SMFy_forum/index.php?topic=74769.0
 
Forgot to mention that my building has electric, and the propane furnace does crank out. 
 
Welcome to the Forum!

Since this insulation is for outside, I would get the thickest foam that will fit the space.  Around the tires, 2 inches may be too thick.  Incandescent bulbs are a good heat source for what you want.
If the pole barn is "full of holes", ignore this.  If the building is fairly air tight, make sure to allow some air flow.  You do not want CO from the furnace, expelled outside the MH into the pole barn being trapped there, and coming in the camper.
Where will you be staying?  Which state?
 
I'm north of Mpls/St Paul 45 miles.  My building is 48' x 80' x 15' side walls.  It has a screened portion surrounding the top of the sidewalls about 6", gaps under the 2 12' x 12' overheads where they would meet the ground, and several openings the critters dig for access around the perimeter.  So it's pretty well ventilated.

Can you please elaborate why the 2" thick panels cut to fit the wheel wells may be too thick?  And what watt incandescent bulbs you recommend?

Thanks for the advise!
 
How about a couple of heat lamps. Just make sure they're not anywhere near combustible materials.

https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Hours-Medium-Light-Industrial/dp/B00RU96YPO/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1541714339&sr=8-9&keywords=heat+lamp+bulb+for+chickens
 
Glad to hear good ventilation!

Heat lamps tend to be directional - they heat what they are aimed at, and not necessarily the air.  I would start with a couple 100 watt bulbs, suspended off the ground. 
To check temps, set a  glass of water on a scrap of insulation (insulate from the ground)  under the MH.  If the water freezes solid, need more lights!  This is more reliable than a thermometer, because just because the temp dropped to 25℉ for a few hours does not mean everything froze up.  Just because it is 35℉ now does not mean all is well.  It takes time for water to freeze and for ice to melt.  Use a water container NOT made of glass!

I assume the insulation will go up behind the lower edge of the MH.  There may or may not be enough room to place a 2" panel in front (outside) of the tire and behind the lower edge of the MH.

I love your Velcro idea!!
 
I discovered Home Depot had them cheapest and just picked up their last 5 for $18.53 a piece for the single-sided foil-faced 4'x8' 2".  Now some measuring and magic-marking lines and some skill saw cutting. 

Thanks for all the timely feedback since temps are quickly dropping here.  The water freeze test tip is a good one.  My wheels are inset enough to accommodate the well opening.  Now the 'fun' part, and definitely measure twice, cut once.  But I need to think through the Velco thing first.  Since storage space in my large building doesn't require me to access basement storage bins, I'm imagining running velcro along the lower edge of all bin bottom edges and to the inside of the panels.

I wonder if it would be worth considering placing the 'snake' type sandbag tubes 4"-5" diameter just outside where the panels contact the ground?
 
It will take very little Velcro to hold the panels in place - maybe a couple inches near each corner.

Snake sandbags will certainly fill the gaps between the insulation and the floor!  With a dirt floor, I'm sure it is not perfectly flat and level  ::)

The foam also cuts nicely with a hand saw or big kitchen knife.  The pros use a hot knife and melt their way through.  The hand saw cuts several inches per stroke.
 
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