WINTERIZE

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grashley

grashley

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2015
Posts
6,610
Location
Western Kentucky
The time has come!  I will use the blow down method, and feel confident the folks here have given very good instructions.  I have one question I have not seen addressed.

The blow down method will clear all lines in the city water path, since that is where the air is introduced.  It does NOT flush the fresh water tank or the tubing to the pump, the pump or the tubing to the point the two systems join.  I am not concerned about the fresh water tank, but how do I winterize the pump?
 
grashley said:
The time has come!  I will use the blow down method, and feel confident the folks here have given very good instructions.  I have one question I have not seen addressed.
The blow down method will clear all lines in the city water path, since that is where the air is introduced.  It does NOT flush the fresh water tank or the tubing to the pump, the pump or the tubing to the point the two systems join.  I am not concerned about the fresh water tank, but how do I winterize the pump?
Click to expand...
grashley
To winterize my RV water pump I disconnect both the input waterline and the output waterline from the pump and then the run the pump for 30 seconds.
 
I had that same question a few years ago. I was told to just turn the pump on for 30 seconds or so while blowing out the system. It won't hurt the pump to run empty. I haven't had a problem doing it that way. Short of hooking an air line to the freshwater tank vent, there is no way to blow out the tank. There's no real need to blow the tank out anyway. Just open the drain and let it do it's thing. There won't be enough water left in there to cause any freeze damage.
 
kdbgoat said:
I had that same question a few years ago. I was told to just turn the pump on for 30 seconds or so while blowing out the system. It won't hurt the pump to run empty. I haven't had a problem doing it that way.
Click to expand...

That's what I use to do also. No need to break any  lines. Besides, It would be a real PITA for me to even get to the pump.
 
Well, call me OCD, but that pink stuff is way to cheap to not flip that little bypass and suck up a little into the pump and beyond.  Same kinda goes when you bypass the water heater and drain it, there is some water in the lines, just a bit, probably won't hurt, but seems Mr. Murphy follows me around  ???. 
I blow mine out, then suck a a tad of the pink stuff through the pump, and down down the drains / traps as well. 
 
SpencerPJ said:
Well, call me OCD, but that pink stuff is way to cheap to not flip that little bypass and suck up a little into the pump and beyond.  Same kinda goes when you bypass the water heater and drain it, there is some water in the lines, just a bit, probably won't hurt, but seems Mr. Murphy follows me around  ???. 
I blow mine out, then suck a a tad of the pink stuff through the pump, and down down the drains / traps as well.
Click to expand...

Mr Murphy and were on a first name basis a few years ago.  FYI, his first name is Edsel.

The light at the end of the tunnel is actually the headlamp of an oncoming train.
A Smith and Wesson beats four Aces.
Any tool dropped while working on your RV will roll to the geometric center, and remain there.
Edsel was an optimist.
 
grashley said:
The time has come!  I will use the blow down method, and feel confident the folks here have given very good instructions.  I have one question I have not seen addressed.

The blow down method will clear all lines in the city water path, since that is where the air is introduced.  It does NOT flush the fresh water tank or the tubing to the pump, the pump or the tubing to the point the two systems join.  I am not concerned about the fresh water tank, but how do I winterize the pump?
Click to expand...

If you don't blow it and use antireeze you won't won't have to worry about those things.
 
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