Couple of stupid questions

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1930

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1- My TV https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supersonic-SC-2412-12-Volt-AC-DC-LED-24-1080p-Digital-HDTV-w-DVD-Player/382394067867?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649  came with 2 power cords.

One a cigarette lighter deal and two a regular power cord like we see in conventional homes.

I dont have a cig lighter in my RV anywhere near my Hugh Hefner penthouse deluxe master bedroom but I do have a standard outlet. Can I just plug it into my standard outlet and assume it uses the same amount of juice from the battery?

I would assume so I guess.

2- My direct spark water heater, https://www.ebay.com/itm/ATWOOD-G6A-8E-RV-Water-Heater-6-Gal-LP-Gas-96121-With-White-Door-FREE-SHIP/112775859801?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 are these adjustable as far as temp?

I dont like super hot showers, Ive always turned down the water heaters in my homes, also is it safe to assume that they turn themselves off when getting to whatever temp I set it for.......I ask cause there is an on/off switch I have had to mount, maybe I need to turn it on/off?

More stupid questions to follow, please stay tuned. Thanks

Already thought of another, I prob misunderstood but I thought I was told on here no sealer required on propane line connections?

Google has a different opinion. Not sure why the confusion, some say do it, others say not necessary?
 
Ive got another: I have a converter that takes shore power and turns it into 12 volt, it also keeps my battery charged at the front of my camper

Ive got 120 outlets in my camper and Ive got an inverter that takes 12 volt ( from the battery ) ( no shore power avail ) and turns it into 120.

My inverter was laying behind my fridge with 2 12 volt wires attached to it, nothing else, how could that power the 120 outlets inside my camper laying there like that?

Also Ive since removed my inverter cause of work Im doing and I am plugged into my home electric and I do have 120 power still avail, I know its there cause I am using power tools.

What do I not understand?

EDIT: So maybe Im am wrong in assuming that all power from an outside source goes into my camper and thru the converter first?

A VERY basic understanding how camper electric would be great if someone here has the time.
 
1-
The ebay TV doesn't come with the 12 volt cord, just mentions compatibility, so you should be able to run it off 110 outlet. It won't run on battery unless you have an inverter from 12 volt to 110 that is at least 48 watts (size of TV).

For instance, amazon has them from $22 and up

2-
You can set the hot water to whatever. Most folks keep them super hot so the small tank lasts a long time. ;)

The on/off switch is so you can turn it off when need be. Say you are running off solar and not plugged in, so you could leave the hot water off and not drain the batteries or solar. You will need to turn it on 20-30 minutes before your shower so it has time to come up to temperature. In most cases you can just leave it on 24/7.

I used to visit friends and plug my 30 amp RV into their 110 outlet with an adapter. I would then turn off everything I didn't need so as to minimize electrical usage. The first thing to turn off was the 400 watt electric heater. I could shower at their house anyhow.  8)

The on/off switch is just a nice option they include with the hot water kit.

TV mounting...

I recently acquired a TV and used a unique mount to install it. The mount I chose is articulating, so I can aim the TV at the sitting area, or the sofa,  or dining, or kitchen. When I am through watching it, I can swing it out of the way completely. Super convenient. I feel spoiled!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHVPDDY
 
1930 said:
1- My TV https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supersonic-SC-2412-12-Volt-AC-DC-LED-24-1080p-Digital-HDTV-w-DVD-Player/382394067867?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649  came with 2 power cords.

2- My direct spark water heater, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supersonic-SC-2412-12-Volt-AC-DC-LED-24-1080p-Digital-HDTV-w-DVD-Player/382394067867?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 are these adjustable as far as temp?
Click to expand...

Both links you provided are for the TV. The power cord probably has a block in the line. This block converts 110 volt AC to 12 Volt DC to operate the TV. Just plug that cord into a regular 110 Volt AC outlet. Save the cigarette lighter cord in case you ever need to plug the TV into 12 Volt DC.

You talked about propane fittings. If the fitting you're talking about is a flared fitting, there is no need for sealant on the threads. The flare (being soft copper) is what seals not the threads. Did I answer your question on that?

The inverter behind the fridge was probably put in to power up just the fridge. You would need to unplug the fridge from the standard 110 Volt AC outlet behind the fridge and plug it in the the outlet on the inverter. Then the fridge would be running off the battery. All the other 110 Volt outlets would not be powered by the inverter.

The converter only powers up all the 12 volt devices in the RV and charges the battery. It may have it's own circuit breaker in your entrance panel or it may be plugged into a regular 110 Volt AC outlet. Shore power is wired directly to the entrance panel and from there it goes to all the 110 Volt AC outlets and the converter.

Try to post your questions separately and create a new post every time. It's so much easier to reply to one question at a time. 
 
Rene T said:
Both links you provided are for the TV. The power cord probably has a block in the line. This block converts 110 volt AC to 12 Volt DC to operate the TV. Just plug that cord into a regular 110 Volt AC outlet. Save the cigarette lighter cord in case you ever need to plug the TV into 12 Volt DC.

You talked about propane fittings. If the fitting you're talking about is a flared fitting, there is no need for sealant on the threads. The flare (being soft copper) is what seals not the threads. Did I answer your question on that?

The inverter behind the fridge was probably put in to power up just the fridge. You would need to unplug the fridge from the standard 110 Volt AC outlet behind the fridge and plug it in the the outlet on the inverter. Then the fridge would be running off the battery. All the other 110 Volt outlets would not be powered by the inverter.

The converter only powers up all the 12 volt devices in the RV and charges the battery. It may have it's own circuit breaker in your entrance panel or it may be plugged into a regular 110 Volt AC outlet. Shore power is wired directly to the entrance panel and from there it goes to all the 110 Volt AC outlets and the converter.

Try to post your questions separately and create a new post every time. It's so much easier to reply to one question at a time.
Click to expand...

I fixed the link and thanks for pointing that out.

Quote:  The power cord probably has a block in the line

I need to find out for sure, maybe I need to contact manuf.

Quote:  The flare (being soft copper) is what seals not the threads

I am the worst at grammar, I have no leg to stand on in pointing this out but I had to read and re- this statement before I figured it out.

What I understand now is  The flare (being soft copper) is what seals, not the threads

Ok so I got rid of that fridge and now have a Norcold propane unit, Im assuming I can hardwire this fridge into the 12 volt wires that are still there from the original fridge of the camper and just ditch the inverter for the time being altogether? Does that sound correct? Seems I have no use for it at this time?

Quote: Try to post your questions separately and create a new post every time. It's so much easier to reply to one question at a time.

It seems no matter how I post someone is telling me to do it a different way, it seems that way on all forums, people generally do not like the way I post, Ive tried to adapt to the online lifetstyle and other peoples ways of thinking and Ive never had any luck so Ive given up.

Im sorry of it bothers you, I do appreciate your responses, you a smart guy and Ive read alot of you old posts.
 
DearMissMermaid said:
1-
The ebay TV doesn't come with the 12 volt cord, just mentions compatibility, so you should be able to run it off 110 outlet. It won't run on battery unless you have an inverter from 12 volt to 110 that is at least 48 watts (size of TV).

For instance, amazon has them from $22 and up

2-
You can set the hot water to whatever. Most folks keep them super hot so the small tank lasts a long time. ;)

The on/off switch is so you can turn it off when need be. Say you are running off solar and not plugged in, so you could leave the hot water off and not drain the batteries or solar. You will need to turn it on 20-30 minutes before your shower so it has time to come up to temperature. In most cases you can just leave it on 24/7.

I used to visit friends and plug my 30 amp RV into their 110 outlet with an adapter. I would then turn off everything I didn't need so as to minimize electrical usage. The first thing to turn off was the 400 watt electric heater. I could shower at their house anyhow.  8)

The on/off switch is just a nice option they include with the hot water kit.

TV mounting...

I recently acquired a TV and used a unique mount to install it. The mount I chose is articulating, so I can aim the TV at the sitting area, or the sofa,  or dining, or kitchen. When I am through watching it, I can swing it out of the way completely. Super convenient. I feel spoiled!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHVPDDY
Click to expand...
Admittedly Im not very bright, it sounds like you are saying that I need an inverter to run this TV?
 
I guess I need to get on google and find out how an inverter is hooked up, I dont know still for sure if I need one for the TV, I guess Im gonna need one for sure if I plan to run anything 110 in the camper.

EDIT: I understand now, thanks
 
1930 said:
...it sounds like you are saying that I need an inverter to run this TV?
Click to expand...
When NOT plugged in to shore power, you need an inverter to run it using the regular household 120V AC power cord, because those house-style outlets won't have any power to them. When you ARE plugged in to shore power you don't need the inverter. But if you plug the other cord (lighter plug) into a 12V DC outlet you don't need an inverter in either case.

You can get a small inverter that plugs into one of the 12V outlets or you can permanently wire a larger inverter either to the entire rig or just to one or a few outlets. But the permanent wiring may be a headache, depending on the layout in your rig.
 
If you need to power the TV when off grid, the best way to do it is to add a 12DC lighter socket wired to your battery.  This would be more energy efficient than using the inverter to convert DC to AC, just to have the power brick on the cord convert the AC back to DC for the TV.

Perhaps something like this with a built in power switch that you could easily turn off to reduce parasitic losses when the tv is "off", but still drawing some power

https://smile.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-STORE-Automotive-Extension/dp/B00PXAN1DU
 
Ok to get 120 volts you need an inverter to get it back to 12 I assume it uses a power brick. both of these devices max out at around 90 percent sdo assume (for ease of math) that it needs 100 watts (Likely less) that means the brick will suck 110 watts and the inverter about 121 MINIMUM. Real life efficiency may be less than max effierncy espically at low loads.

YOU DO have lights and possibly slide out motors near the spot where you wish to mount the TV.  You may be able to "Tap" one of these lines (or more) and install a 20 amp rated 12 volt accesory outlet. GO FOR A 20 amp rated outlet even if you only use a 10 amp in-line fuse. DO FUSE IT.

I have 3 in my bedroom. Two hookd to the light one to the Slide supply

Plus oner in the half bath and one in the kitchen and one in the basement. thoser are all 20 amp 10ga feerd 20 amp fuse.  Two are in parallel. (Kitchen/basement) I can plug in a DC TV most anywhere :).
 
Regarding the TV stand:  Can you please share what you connected the TV stand to?  I was considering a pop-up TV stand in an expensive cabinet.  The stand you reference looks like a good, cheaper alternative.  I just don't know where I would put it.  I have a Class A (37') and am planning to use the area where the recliner currently sits.  I don't want the TV to block out window view unless we watch TV.  Thanks in advance.


DearMissMermaid said:
1-
The ebay TV doesn't come with the 12 volt cord, just mentions compatibility, so you should be able to run it off 110 outlet. It won't run on battery unless you have an inverter from 12 volt to 110 that is at least 48 watts (size of TV).

For instance, amazon has them from $22 and up

2-
You can set the hot water to whatever. Most folks keep them super hot so the small tank lasts a long time. ;)

The on/off switch is so you can turn it off when need be. Say you are running off solar and not plugged in, so you could leave the hot water off and not drain the batteries or solar. You will need to turn it on 20-30 minutes before your shower so it has time to come up to temperature. In most cases you can just leave it on 24/7.

I used to visit friends and plug my 30 amp RV into their 110 outlet with an adapter. I would then turn off everything I didn't need so as to minimize electrical usage. The first thing to turn off was the 400 watt electric heater. I could shower at their house anyhow.  8)

The on/off switch is just a nice option they include with the hot water kit.

TV mounting...

I recently acquired a TV and used a unique mount to install it. The mount I chose is articulating, so I can aim the TV at the sitting area, or the sofa,  or dining, or kitchen. When I am through watching it, I can swing it out of the way completely. Super convenient. I feel spoiled!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHVPDDY
Click to expand...
 
As said, since you have the included 12-volt power cord for the TV, adding a 12-volt outlet would be the simplest solution for both on and off grid operation.

Regarding the water heater, the Atwood G6A-8E has a fixed ~140 deg.F temperature setting. Temperature at the shower head and faucets is controlled by mixing in cold water in normal residential fashion.
 
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