Water Transfer Pump?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
Frank B

Frank B

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2005
Posts
1,582
Location
Calgary, Alberta
To extend our boondocking time, I just bought a 40 gal auxiliary water tank for the bed of the truck.  I need to move that 40 gal to the trailer.  I was hoping for a 110V immersion pump, but the fill access hole in the top of the auxiliary tank is only 4.5" wide.


It now appears that I can do 3 things:


1) Get a 110V diaphragm pump, like what is used for the coach itself.  Expensive at between $150 and $200


2) Get a cheap ($12 to $20) drill pump.


3) Park the truck uphill a bit (if possible), and siphon it.


#3 may work in some of the places we boondock, but maybe not all.


#2 may work if I can get a drill pump that will last.  Reports on them vary from lousy to usable.


Any suggestions?


I'll only have to do this every couple of weeks for a couple of months.


Thanks.


Frank.
 
If the tank outlet is higher than the RV fill port, you should be able to just let it drain on it's own. If the tank fill is higher, how about getting a very small compressor and pressurize the water tank maybe a couple of PSI, pushing the water out into the fill port.
 
Brilliant idea! I wish I had thought of that. :)


Close, but no cigar. :-(  Bottom of the auxiliary tank in the bed of the truck is 37 in. Fill hole on the side of the trailer is at 44 in. This would work if I parked the truck uphill somewhat.


Anyway, this helps me realize that siphoning may be a distinct possibility.  Though the fill hole is at 44 in, the tank itself is probably two feet below that. I could probably just run a garden hose, with the end cut off, in the fill hole and down towards the bottom of the tank. That should provide enough difference to just plain siphon.  It might take a while, but if it is doing it on its own, time I have in abundance.
 
Build a platform to put the tank on. Use 2" X 8" or 2" X 10".  That should put it above the fill port
 
When I setup my  boondocking tank I purchased the same water pump I had on the RV, thinking I could use it as a spare if I needed it
 
Back2PA said:
When I setup my  boondocking tank I purchased the same water pump I had on the RV, thinking I could use it as a spare if I needed it
Click to expand...


That is smart.


It won't be the least expensive option, and I will have to get DC power to the motor somehow, but few things will end a trip into the outback more quickly than a water pump in the coach that no longer functions.
 
Frank B said:
I will have to get DC power to the motor somehow,
Click to expand...

I created a long 12V "extension cord" from fairly heavy 2-conductor wire (10 gauge I think, maybe 12), attached a cigarette lighter plug on one end and the pump on the other end. I made the cord about 15 feet long. Later when I changed toads I switched things around a little and decided to use the coach batteries to run the pump. I replaced the cigarette lighter plug with battery post clips and just clipped it to the batteries. Also installed an inline switch.
 
You should be able to get a cheap RV style 1-2 gpm 12VDC powered water pump off amazon for under $35.

Perhaps something like https://smile.amazon.com/Seaflo-Diaphragm-Pressure-Caravan-Marine/dp/B00DLKT4OO/

Or for just a little more https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002P33KVQ/  (I carry one of these in my RV as an emergency spare)

 
I did some simple plumbing changes to the RV and now can draw water in thru the city water port using the onboard pump.  No need to buy a pump, wires or switches.

If you want to simply fill by gravity, put a tee in the line at the bottom of the tank and connect a hose there.  That way you won't have to elevate up to the fill port.
 
lynnmor said:
I did some simple plumbing changes to the RV and now can draw water in thru the city water port using the onboard pump.  No need to buy a pump, wires or switches.

If you want to simply fill by gravity, put a tee in the line at the bottom of the tank and connect a hose there.  That way you won't have to elevate up to the fill port.
Click to expand...


Okay, if I understand this correctly, the truck along with the auxiliary water tank will have to remain attached to the side of the trailer, correct?
 
Isaac-1 said:
You should be able to get a cheap RV style 1-2 gpm 12VDC powered water pump off amazon for under $35.

Perhaps something like https://smile.amazon.com/Seaflo-Diaphragm-Pressure-Caravan-Marine/dp/B00DLKT4OO/

Or for just a little more https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002P33KVQ/  (I carry one of these in my RV as an emergency spare)
Click to expand...


Okay, that is interesting. I was thinking that 120 volts ac would be easier for me as I have copious amounts of solar, and a 2500 watt inverter. A standard extension cord is very easy to use. However, I remember now that I connected a heavy gauge socket across the battery bank some years ago for a single 18 volt solar panel that I used to charge the battery bank. Though I no longer use it since installing a major solar array on the roof, that cord is still there, and could probably be repurposed as a 12-volt DC source. Interesting indeed, as the 12 volt pumps that you linked me to are substantially less money than the 120 volt pumps that I had been looking at.
 
First, I would definitely go 12V and save the losses in using an inverter.  A simple cord to the pump with battery clips on the other end allows the pump to be powered from either RV or truck battery.  The pump could be a cheap one (disposable) or good quality.  Either one becomes an emergency replacement pump for the RV.

A simple hose from the tank to the RV fill,  plus a bit of air pressure is a very simple method as well.  5 or 10 psi will easily push the water to the camper fill port.  If you already have the compressor, this method is almost free!  It could also be used as an easy way to start the siphon.
 
grashley said:
First, I would definitely go 12V and save the losses in using an inverter.  A simple cord to the pump with battery clips on the other end allows the pump to be powered from either RV or truck battery.  The pump could be a cheap one (disposable) or good quality.  Either one becomes an emergency replacement pump for the RV.

A simple hose from the tank to the RV fill,  plus a bit of air pressure is a very simple method as well.  5 or 10 psi will easily push the water to the camper fill port.  If you already have the compressor, this method is almost free!  It could also be used as an easy way to start the siphon.
Click to expand...


For me, I am more or less awash with solar power, and the losses of an inverter are not of any real concern. The pump would run for only about 20 minutes maximum anyway. The 12 volt wiring is a bigger issue, although, as noted above, I could repurpose a cord that I used to use for charging the battery bank.


I was previously thinking that for me, it would be easier just to use an extension cord on the 120 volts ac. But, as you and others have noted, having a 12-volt pump would give me a spare that could be used for the coach if ever that failed. That is worth thinking about.


Unfortunately, I do not carry an air compressor with me, though that too would be feasible if I had a drain on the bottom of the auxillary tank. At present I don't, although I could have one installed.

I do very much appreciate all the suggestions given. They have given me food for thought.


Has anyone ever used a cheap drill pump for something like this?
 
Frank B said:
Okay, if I understand this correctly, the truck along with the auxiliary water tank will have to remain attached to the side of the trailer, correct?
Click to expand...

In either case, you have the choice of using the external tank or filling the onboard tank.
 
lynnmor said:
In either case, you have the choice of using the external tank or filling the onboard tank.
Click to expand...


OK, that sounds really good, but I cannot visualize how I could fill the onboard tank using the pump that is in the trailer. Can you explain that to me?
 
Hi Frank. FWIW, I put a 25 gallon auxiliary freshwater tank in the basement of our coach for the same reason - to extend boondocking time. I also installed a 12 volt Shurflo water pump to transfer the water from the aux tank to the main tank - a distance of about 15 feet. It only takes about five minutes to transfer all 25 gallons. I decided to go with a 12 volt pump, so I'd have a backup water pump available if the main pump ever failed in the middle of nowhere.

Kev
 
I pull from a 60 gallon bladder or 5 gallon jugs through the winterizing port. I also have a pressure tank and two GE filters so while plumbing it I installed a tee and ball valve that let's the pressure side of the pump dump into the large hose for the fresh fill port. I can fill the on board tank or just pull from the bladder in the back of the truck

I made up a hose that goes from winterizer port to garden hose.
 
Frank B said:
OK, that sounds really good, but I cannot visualize how I could fill the onboard tank using the pump that is in the trailer. Can you explain that to me?
Click to expand...

 

Attachments

  • Water Valves.jpg
    Water Valves.jpg
    29.9 KB · Views: 21
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 738 (members: 20, guests: 718)

Forum statistics

Threads
131,964
Posts
1,388,304
Members
137,716
Latest member
chewys79
Back
Top Bottom