Our coach is ready to travel (1st Timers)quick Question

We are very excited to get on the road. I have a couple weeks of prep left and a test run next weekend.
As I was doing an inspection I learned the coach batteries do not charge when driving. Only if the generator is on or the rig is plugged in.
Is this common?
Also has anyone used the Waze app to travel. My stereo (Kenwood) has wazeon it and I tried it on the way home it worked good. Let me know about cars parked on the shoulder ahead, traffic, gas stations ect..it seemed more intuitive than google maps.
Also the air bags are inflated to 55psi and I cant find the specs on my coach, does that sound about right?
I am sure I will have many posts over  the next few weeks, so that is it for now.

It sounds like you have a problem with your battery isolator, this is usually a relay device mounted under the hood, they come in a variety of styles.  There are the transitional relay devices (cost $45 or so), there are also the bi-directional relays or BIRD's as well as diode style isolators with no relay.  though it is rare to find the diode type in coaches built in the last 10-12 years as they are more expensive than the relay types with minimal advantages.

p.s. if you search Amazon you will find many different styles, though note they must be sized for your alternator.  If you have a 150 amp alternator, you need at least a 150 amp isolator, etc.  I don't know which chassis you have, Ford or Workhorse, but I can tell you the 8.1L Workhorse chassis coaches came from the factory with a 145 amp alternator, not sure about Fords though.  Also higher output alternators are available on the aftermarket.

I see no reason the WAZE app wil not work. I use Google Maps coupled with some other resources like on-line advice  (Google sometimes does strange things) and paper maps. Of course I've been reading paper maps since long before Google.

Waze a useful application of crowd-sourced data. However, you should never blindly follow any GPS. Be especially wary of any suggested routes which deviate from the one that you've pre-planned.

Issac it is a workhorse. So i will do some research. i cant believe the shop didn't pick up on this.

Just called the shop they say it could be a fuse is this possible?

I love my Waze app. I echo what HappyWanderer said about blindly following a GPS. Don't ask me how I know!@$#! Plan out your route with a paper map, then use Waze to help you find the turns and keep you updated on road hazards. If she suggests an alternate route to avoid traffic, stop and check it on a map or have your navigator check before deviating from your planned route. If I am driving a car, I don't worry so much about routing, but it is no fund to be up a blind alley with toad in tow! (see comment above  :-\ )

CJAG said:

Just called the shop they say it could be a fuse is this possible?

Click to expand...

Of course, but.... it takes a good diagnostic to determine the real cause, something many RV shops are not good at. They often like to throw parts at it and hope it goes away.

Highly unlikely it is a fuse, but not impossible.  That sort of reply is just a tech advisor trying to sound knowledgeable and not a real diagnosis. he idea is to get you to bring it in to the shop in the hope it is something simple rather than a pricey repair.  However, there is no fuse dedicated to that function and usually noe that have any effect on it.


Basically your coach electrical system is supposed to engage a solenoid (relay) any the engine is running to connect both battery systems so that the alternator can charge the house batteries as well as the chassis battery. It's the same solenoid used to provide the Aux (aka Emergency) start feature (button on dashboard), si chances are that isn't functional either.

UGG welcome to RV life. I guess I will have to figure this out without the RV shop? Any advice?

How do you know it is not charging the coach batteries?  What test did you perform?  I have the exact same RV (Coachman 36FWS) and it charges both the house and the chassis batteries from the alternator.  I have installed the trimetric battery monitor system with optional wire for the chassis battery.  When the engine is running the the alternator provides 14.4v to both batteries.

First time ever I can go and look at my RV and help out and I'm no where near it.  Sorry.  This is the first fall trip to Texas without the RV, it stayed behind in Florida. I will be back in early January to the RV.  I can try to answer any other questions you might have.  We have done trips as long as 9 months and short as 2 weeks in this RV.

Seems like you should be able to trace the cable from the alternator back to the batteries.  Off hand without being able to look, I think it goes to the bay above the batteries where the slide/levelers reservoir is?  There are connections there (one on forward wall and one on aft wall) then from there goes to the batteries, can't remember which is which.  Those just might be the fuses from the batteries to the levelers and the slide motor, sorry can't be of more help.

By the way when plugged into shore power the converter charges both batteries also.

I have been using 50 psi also in the airbags and seems to work well, see my earlier post on replacing the front air bags, fridge, and stereo.  I also did an inverter install under the front steps, added an outlet above the bathroom sink, replaced both TVs, all the overhead lights with LED, and upgraded the battery bay.  You will quickly find out the the batteries sitting directly behind the passenger wheel and wide open at the bottom creates a huge mess in there.  Be sure to install the slide stoppers while traveling.

Without knowing the exact type and model of battery isolator your coach uses or where exactly it is located it is hard to give much specific advice.  Having said that the idea that it is a fuse causing this issue is a very long shot,  either the guy really knows what he is talking about and your specific coach uses a battery isolator with a problematic fuse, or he is just spewing nonsense to get you to bring it in.

I purchased a small device that would charge the coach batteries by connecting to the chassis battery. Forget the name of it but Gary probably will know. This solved my problem of the coach batteries not charging while driving.


Bill