2-6 volt battery question

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CJAG

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 18, 2018
Posts
108
Location
Hendersonville, TN
I have recently got 2 new 6 volt batteries that were installed by a shop. With my generator on house batteries and my reading is 6.7 volts max out put I tested it with the neg on one battery and the pos on another battery. I am not sure if they hooked it back up correct because this is a new coach for me. Below is a picture. My question is the Two leads on the right from the coach go to house battery bank. How can  i only get 6.7 volt reading. It should say 13.x or something shouldn't it?
Also it appears my chassis battery doesn't charge these batteries.
Any suggestions for this rookie would be helpful.
 

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The terminals for golf cart batteries must be wired in series.  Sounds like the shop wired them in parallel.

One batteries terminal is positive and it is wired to the other batteries negative terminal.  The two remaining terminals are then used to connect to your camper's power system.  Very easy.

I have 3 pairs of golf cart batteries in my RV and will never go back to 12 volt systems!
 
You should be getting 12+ volt at the 2 white arrows. If not then something is wrong.

Can you see the top of the batteries to check the connections.
 

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It appears correct, but I can not see the terminal labels.

Coach frame / ground connects to battery 1 NEG. (Left Front??)  Connect Bat 1 POS to Bat 2 NEG. (center jumper wire)  Connect bat 2 POS to coach red wires.  (Right Rear??)  This agrees with other descriptions above.

If you measure voltage between the left front terminal in your pic to the right rear terminal, you should get the expected 12.6 V.
 
On many entry level and medium level gas motorhomes the engine (chassis) alternator does not charge the house batteries.
 
Proper hookup of 2 six volt

"Ground"(chassis)== -{6v}+==-{6v+}=== and on to devices. 12 volts at this point.

Legend == is wire or cable  It appears those are properly connected but I'd need a shot from a higher angle to be sure.

12 volt hook up is

-{12v}+
-{12v}+
-{12v}+
-{12v}+
(however many you wish to parallel.


It is possible you have not yet charged the batteries and they are just that low. Doubtful but possible.
 
[Thread Hijack]

Anyone have any idea of a part number or source for the battery hold-down hardware in this photo?  I'm looking for a 2-battery anchor like that.  Your basic google search only reveals golf cart and car battery stuff which really isn't what I'm looking for.  I could custom make them but would rather click than weld.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Mark_K5LXP said:
[Thread Hijack]

Anyone have any idea of a part number or source for the battery hold-down hardware in this photo?  I'm looking for a 2-battery anchor like that.  Your basic google search only reveals golf cart and car battery stuff which really isn't what I'm looking for.  I could custom make them but would rather click than weld.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

Until you called it out I didn't notice.....But that center only bracket appears to me to be inadequate for the job. It may keep the batteries from sliding in ideal conditions. But on rough roads or a sharp stop could easily dislodge them from the hold down. But in all fairness it's not the best picture of the hold down....I may not have a clue
 
AStravelers said:
On many entry level and medium level gas motorhomes the engine (chassis) alternator does not charge the house batteries.

Not true from the great majority of threads on this subject unless there is a problem.

BUT... the reverse is absolutely correct, in many RV's the HOUSE battery charger (converter) does not charge the engine battery when the RV is plugged in.

As an alternative in the latter case, an after market  trickle charge unit can be installed. (The name of a popular one escapes me at the moment...arg...)
 
Batteries are structurally pretty stiff, so I think if you can keep the batteries from sliding on the bottom, a single top support would adequately restrain them in any on-road application.  Even on my motorcycle the battery is retained from just one top edge.  What I'm really looking for are the Fleetwood handle bracket supports but I haven't found an economical source for them.  Guessing anything sourced as a "repair part" will be spendy no matter what so I need to either pay up or spend an afternoon in the shop.

Mark B
Albuquerque, NM
 

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On many entry level and medium level gas motorhomes the engine (chassis) alternator does not charge the house batteries.
I think you may have confused that with a lack of charging of the chassis battery by the house system converter/charger.  That's fairly common.  However, every Class A, B & C coach I've ever encountered charged the house battery(s) from the engine alternator.
 
Al, you have a problem. Your Sightseer engine alternator should charge the house batteries while you drive. I had a 2006 Sightseer  and the house batteries did get charged by the alternator. There is a solenoid that connects the house and chassis batteries when the engine is running.  It's the same solenoid that connects them when you press the emergency start button on the dash.  On my Sightseer that switch was labeled "MOM"    . Many people have had troubles with that solenoid.
 
Take it back to the shop and have them correct it, from the picture it appears that the batteries are connected in parallel. AND have the verify that the chassis ground lead is connected to the battery negative post!
 
These batteries are wired in series.

The interconnecting 6" red wire in the center connects the - to the + on the other 6v battery.  The negative from the house is in the front left and the (2) positives wires are on the back right of the 6v batteries.  Exactly like the attachment.  This unit (I have exact same one) has a side post chassis battery, and have different ends then the house battery.

MercerLake:  I am not a fan of the taping scheme used.  All the wires are black (to save the manufacturer money)  Green is a terrible choice for tape color on a positive wire, and is very misleading and fraught with potential to be wired incorrectly.  This is taped per the wiring schematic from the factory.  Why not brown?  That color wasn't used.  If anything the heavy red taped one goes to the wrong battery.



 

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Mark_K5LXP said:
Batteries are structurally pretty stiff, so I think if you can keep the batteries from sliding on the bottom, a single top support would adequately restrain them in any on-road application.  Even on my motorcycle the battery is retained from just one top edge.  What I'm really looking for are the Fleetwood handle bracket supports but I haven't found an economical source for them.  Guessing anything sourced as a "repair part" will be spendy no matter what so I need to either pay up or spend an afternoon in the shop.

Mark B
Albuquerque, NM

I'd just replace that with a piece of flat metal, maybe put a block of wood in the center if you want to keep the batteries from touching the all-thread pole.
 
wmtired said:
I have 3 pairs of golf cart batteries in my RV and will never go back to 12 volt systems!
Have a Revcon with no house batteries.  In the decision process.  Could you clarify for a non-electrician newbie?
 
Bobtop46 said:
These batteries are wired in series.

The interconnecting 6" red wire in the center connects the - to the + on the other 6v battery.  The negative from the house is in the front left and the (2) positives wires are on the back right of the 6v batteries.  Exactly like the attachment.  This unit (I have exact same one) has a side post chassis battery, and have different ends then the house battery.

MercerLake:  I am not a fan of the taping scheme used.  All the wires are black (to save the manufacturer money)  Green is a terrible choice for tape color on a positive wire, and is very misleading and fraught with potential to be wired incorrectly.  This is taped per the wiring schematic from the factory.  Why not brown?  That color wasn't used.  If anything the heavy red taped one goes to the wrong battery.

 

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