Another water heater issue for you to solve.

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RedandSilver

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I have a Suburban water heater model ASEDV-10SR.

In the past (last year) I could take a 10 minute shower without turn off the water and have hot water
though out the shower.

Now I'm lucky to get 15-20 seconds of hot water even for hand washing, and a shower is almost out of the question
even turning off the water for a minute and then turning it back on I only get a few seconds of warm water - not enough to
even rinse off the soap, as the water turns ice cold very quickly.

The A Rod was replaced this last summer (2018) and has had little use.

One more thing is when I turn on only hot water - it comes on maybe 90% of the pressure (stream) of the cold side.
As the water warms up the stream looses pressure and is more like 35% of the cold side. It's pretty hot at that time but only
for a few seconds before it cools off drastically.

Any ideas what's wrong or how to fix it?
 
Most likely a clogged check valve at the heater exit or entry. You get what hot water is in the lines plus a little, but the hot water cannot flow from the tank fast enough to meet the demand, so cold water backfills in the mixing faucet. That also explains the reduced flow rate.  Check valves in the heater plumbing get clogged easily if using hard (high mineral content) water for any length of time.  If you had faucets that did NOT deliver mixed hot & cold through one outlet, the hot would simply slow down to a trickle.

If I had to bet, it would be the check valve in the hot water outlet of the tank.
 
10-20 seconds.. Suspects are

the bypass valves.. If you have a 3 valve system is the CENTER valve closed?

THe "Dog Shower" (Outside shower) Did you  cut off flow at the head and leave the mixing valves open?

Beyond that I can't help.
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
If I had to bet, it would be the check valve in the hot water outlet of the tank.
Click to expand...

Can you tell me how to access the check value - or at least where it's located?
Is it located outside and upstream of the carpet covered box that surrounds the water heater?
Or does the water heater have to be removed?
 
John From Detroit said:
10-20 seconds.. Suspects are

the bypass valves.. If you have a 3 valve system is the CENTER valve closed?

THe "Dog Shower" (Outside shower) Did you  cut off flow at the head and leave the mixing valves open?

Beyond that I can't help.
Click to expand...

I only see two hoses going into the water heater - which go to the low point drains.

The outside shower valves are closed and there is no head on the hose - it's open.
 
The bypass system is located on the back side of the WH. You should have Cold water input and Hot water output. Your bypass/check valve will be plumped in at this point. It will depend on how the plumbing was done to incorporate the plumbing. If you can get to the back of the WH. Get a picture to up load and folks will be better able to direct you.

Good luck
 
You bypass valves are in the wrong position. Have you ever winterized you water system? The bypass valves are on the inside of the rig on the WH. 1, 2 or three valves depending on your setup. Pictures please. Your model # does not sound like a Suburban but I'm no expert.
 
The model ASEDV-10SR. appears to be an American Standard but may be a re-badged Suburban 10 gallon unit. The check valve is usually screwed right into the output fitting (top fitting) on the back of the heater itself and the piping is connected to that.
 
RedandSilver said:
Can you tell me how to access the check value - or at least where it's located?
Is it located outside and upstream of the carpet covered box that surrounds the water heater?
Or does the water heater have to be removed?
Click to expand...

The check valve. if it exists. is on the OUTLET of the water heater.. That's inside the RV (Look at the water heater from the back)

IF it is the problem though you get no hot water flow. if the water flows normally, Just not hot. it is not the problem or it does not exist (I dont't have one on my 3-valve bypass system).
 
Alfa38User said:
The model ASEDV-10SR. appears to be an American Standard but may be a re-badged Suburban 10 gallon unit. The check valve is usually screwed right into the output fitting (top fitting) on the back of the heater itself and the piping is connected to that.
Click to expand...

Yes - my bad - it IS an American Standard unit.

I removed the side panel around the heater and stuck a camera back there.  I don't see a check valve of any type.

I get water flow out of the faucet and then it warms up but quickly turns cool again.
I have tried using electric and propane at the same time and still only get a few seconds of warm before it cools off.
this happens on all faucets.

I believe my valves are in the right position - however did the inside part of the valve turn with the handle?
That's the next thing to check.
Then if that doesn't change anything, I will empty the tank and flush it out just in case there is something in front of
the exit port.
After that I don't know what to do.

IF anyone has any ideas I'm open. 
 
Here is a picture of a 2 valve system. The valve handles must be inline with the pipe going into the WH to work. No check valve shown. The handles show the water travel of the valve. 90 degrees to the pipe would be the off position. In that case the water would just loop past the WH and not enter or exit.




 

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Outside  Shower valves are turned on and the showerhead shut off complete the bypass
 
Not sure what I'm reading here. OP stated the outside shower valves are OFF and the shower head is not on the hose. At least that's how I read it.
 
Redandsilver, on my valves as you pointed out sometimes on the valve panel the valve doesn't work correctly , because as I push on the knobs it separates a little so I have to make sure I reach behind the panel and push in and they work correctly.
I know I will have to replace them eventually but they work fine. If I have a valve like the water heater bypass doesn't work, I reach behind the panel to ensure the rotating piece of the valve is flushed .
Maybe something to look at. Could be water heater bypass working intermittently.
 
cavie said:
Here is a picture of a 2 valve system. The valve handles must be inline with the pipe going into the WH to work. No check valve shown. The handles show the water travel of the valve. 90 degrees to the pipe would be the off position. In that case the water would just loop past the WH and not enter or exit.
Click to expand...

This picture shows a ONE valve bypass system and it would have a check valve right at the tank and the top pipe connects to it.
 
you are correct sir. The pic was labeled 2 valves and I assumed the top valve was on the other side. I need to be more observant.

Here is a correct version.
 

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The inside shower can also cause the problem if the primary valves are open and the shower head valve is turned off. Most inside shower heads have a "dribble" valve, but others have a positive shutoff like our Camco shower head.
 
Depending on how much\often hard water has been in the heater, I'm guessing a lot, you might try flushing the heater. Turn it off, pull the drain and try spraying water into it and see if scale comes out.
 
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