Another water heater issue for you to solve.

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Here's a pic of the check valve.
You won't necessary be able to see it as it will be screwed into the WH and have the water line connected,

If you look at the end of the check valve in the picture you will see the insert that may be blocked causing all your problems. It's my understanding that you can either pull out the guts of the valve or drill though the fitting.

Of course this will destroy the valve but I really think this is your problem. This is assuming that your bypass valve is set up and working correctly.

You should also have a way to access the back of the WH....A fake panel or removing a drawer perhaps.

Best of luck and keep us posted
 

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Gizmo100 said:
If you look at the end of the check valve in the picture you will see the insert that may be blocked causing all your problems. It's my understanding that you can either pull out the guts of the valve or drill though the fitting.
Click to expand...

What happens is the check valve sticks shut and won't allow hot water to get through it. Just remove the valve and drive the internals out of it with a screwdriver and a hammer then put it back in with some sealant like teflon tape or pipe dope.  If you never need to winterize the system, you can just leave it that way.
 
Rene T said:
This picture shows a ONE valve bypass system and it would have a check valve right at the tank and the top pipe connects to it.
Click to expand...

it is a 2 valve system you can not see the handle on the 2nd valve cause it is behind the valve body.
 
John From Detroit said:
it is a 2 valve system you can not see the handle on the 2nd valve cause it is behind the valve body.
Click to expand...

It could be but I doubt it. If there was a valve there, they would have positioned it (I would think) so that it would be on the same side as the bottom valve and not between the piping and the tank which could make it a little difficult to operate. Also, take a look at the second picture. You can see a boss on the backside of the valve which supports the stem. The top fitting in the 1st picture doesn't have that boss. I think it's only a "T".
 
Old_Crow said:
John, the pic in post #12 is a one valve system, the pic in post #17 is the 2 valve setup.
Click to expand...
 

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OK here's the update.

In my manual it shows the 2 valve system.
It states that the CLOSED position is when both valve handles point to the cross section.
It states that for winterizing they should be in the open position which is with the handles pointing away
from the cross section.  But what is wrong - is that the handles CAN NOT be turned 180? like in the diagram.

They can be turned 90? only and can be turned towards the cross section of tubing, which they call the closed position.

I turned the cold water line to point to the cross section and got hot water flowing.
But I thought if it is OFF how will it fill the tank?
I now believe they are diverter valves and not shut off valves.

I now have them both pointing towards the cross section and now normal hot water flow again.

I still don't think there is a check valve - but if there is (and I just can't see it) it is not clogged as flow is normal again.

I took a 6-7 minute shower without turning off any water and it was hot enough the whole time. :))

Thanks to all for trying to help me figure this out. 
It just didn't seem right that the valves should be in what looked like an OFF position to work right - but that's
how it is.
 
They are in fact diverter valves and the only turn 90 degrees. All is correct with you system.
 
Thanks for the update...Glad you got it fixed...Those cold showers get old.
 
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