Road handling and stability

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Cuervo-  Just some more data/info ..... FWIW.

My coach is 31'9" with a 220" wheelbase, so my wheelbase-to-length ratio is almost 0.58 which is pretty good for a Class C.  I suspect your rig has similar dimensions.  The PO installed Helwigs front and rear + a Safe T Steer at the same time.  Said it made a world of difference in stability; but I have read on one of the forums that the Roadmaster anti-sway bars are definitely heavier (= stronger, I presume) so if I were contemplating such an installation, I would look hard at the Roadmasters ........just sayin'.

I got the OK from the Rush Ford Medium Duty Truck Center here to bring in my own Ingalls bushings and they agreed to install them and get me my 5 degrees of positive caster.  That has provided a bit more improvement in stability for me .... and yes, they had 1/4 degrees less on the left than the right when they finished.  I believe the guy called it "lead".... must be the same as "cross caster".

I am kinda "loaded out" now with after mkt stuff for stability (can't install a track bar due to the configuration under there with the OEM Firestone air bags.)  I do wish the Ford didn't have so much free play in the steering wheel, but I understand that is due to the design features of a recirculating ball steering box.  I have been told it will never drive like a rack and pinion set up; but I am quite satisfied now as it is (but I ain't never  been in 50 MPH crosswinds.)  The folks at "Redhead" will blueprint/fine tune the Ford steering box, but they don't have exchange units; one would have to drive to Washington state and give them a day to do the work on my OEM box.

Sure agree with "goat" on the tire pressure considerations.  Most all of us with the 30+ ft-type class C's are going to be close to the placard numbers (which are based on GAWRs I believe.)  I travel light and put tools and other dense stuff in the toad but by the time I add a few extra psi (for gage error, etc)  to my Bridgestone "load table" numbers (based on my CAT scale weights) I am pretty close to the placard numbers, so not a lot of help available there.  I'd wager your experience will be similar.

Be sure to post back when you are all mended up; and tell us what you did and how it worked.  Most of us are still learnin'... lol

Good luck with your recovery and your coach mods ............. and safe travels.

 
 
Thanks again for all the info. I ordered the adjustable bushings, couldn't find Ingalls, found some made by Specialty Products on Amazon. On their website they have a informative install video. I think if I make a neg .75 adjustment, it should give me + 5.5 on the left. Should I mess with a camber adjustment while I'm at it? Camber is -0.1 L and +0.1R
 
Cuervo1 said:
Thanks again for all the info. I ordered the adjustable bushings, couldn't find Ingalls, found some made by Specialty Products on Amazon. On their website they have a informative install video. I think if I make a neg .75 adjustment, it should give me + 5.5 on the left. Should I mess with a camber adjustment while I'm at it? Camber is -0.1 L and +0.1R

I may be all wet here, BUT:

IF you already have "Left+6.3 and Right+5.7"

THEN you already have adjustable bushings INSTALLED !!!!

EITHER THAT or your rig sits with a significant (noticeable) NOSE HIGH attitude ???
 
Cuervo1 said:
Thanks again for all the info. I ordered the adjustable bushings, couldn't find Ingalls, found some made by Specialty Products on Amazon. On their website they have a informative install video. I think if I make a neg .75 adjustment, it should give me + 5.5 on the left. Should I mess with a camber adjustment while I'm at it? Camber is -0.1 L and +0.1R

The chart I received from my Ford Truck Dealer has the camber specs at -0.8 to +1.3 ...... both R and L.  My E450 chassis is a 2006; yours is likely a 2009.  Probably the same spec values but a call to your Ford Truck dealer might be in order?

Best................ ed s
 
I bought this MH new in 2010 (2009 chassis).To my knowledge the first alignment was the one I had done in October, prior to our eventful trip to Elkhart Indiana. The MH  was in rental program for a few years and was maintained by the company tech. If he had an alignment done it was a piss poor one. It doesn't sit nose high. Do you think that I should try the adjustable bushing on the left?
Maybe I'll just wait till I'm back on my feet and go back to the alignment shop and fight with them. After all my camber is out too. The printout says limits are : -0.3 to +1.3 mine is -0.1 and +0.1
First I'm going to put on Hellwig bars, Bilstein shocks and Roadmaster stabilizer.
 
Cuervo1 said:
.... It doesn't sit nose high. ....

Then I think you already have adjustable bushings installed....because you current caster numbers are so high.
 
Can I reduce the Left setting with a new bushing or re - adjust the one that's installed if it is adjustable? Can you tell by looking at it if it is adjustable?
 
THree improvermerntys many make

Sway: this is side to side rocking like fans at a rock concert
SWAY bars exist on nearly all vehicles but may not be up to a motor home's neerds. UPGRADE sway bars can be added.

WAG: leaf spring suspension allows the body to move a bit side to side. Imagine the front moving one way while the rear moves the other. You think you are "Drifting" so you compensate. then they swap and again you compensate.. the result is you are wagging your tail doggy style and really tiring yoruself out. TRAC bars (Alsk known as panhard) stop this two of them stop it 100%. one may ber enough Usually the rear. in my case front.

Finally steering stabilizers. These do NOT change the handling so much as help you stay straight. Can also help if a tire blows.. Mine is the True-Ox Blue Center.  Safe-T-Steer makes one with an adjustable center point (From the driver's seat)  Those are my top picks
 
Cuervo1 said:
First I'm going to put on Hellwig bars, Bilstein shocks and Roadmaster stabilizer.

For the life of me, I can't figure out why people throw a bunch of money at something to try to fix an issue. Why not get the alignment correct first, then try it. If that doesn't work for you, then think about the three other items you are looking at. Decide what is the biggest issue in handling that you don't like, then choose one of those three things that will work best to get rid of that issue. Shocks won't do a thing for correcting excessive roll, but the sway bars will. Sway bars don't help much with wandering, but the stabilizer may. If you do everything at once, you won't have a clue what fixed what.
 
Point taken! This Motor home has 105k miles and it doesn't drive like it did when new.After browsing the forums; many have recommended these upgrades. I also have a huge service to get done, as well as other upgrades inside.
We thought about trading it in but since it's almost paid for,decided to dump some money in it and enjoy it again.
Just spending the kids inheritance.
 
John From Detroit said:
THree improvermerntys many make

Sway: this is side to side rocking like fans at a rock concert
SWAY bars exist on nearly all vehicles but may not be up to a motor home's neerds. UPGRADE sway bars can be added.

WAG: leaf spring suspension allows the body to move a bit side to side. Imagine the front moving one way while the rear moves the other. You think you are "Drifting" so you compensate. then they swap and again you compensate.. the result is you are wagging your tail doggy style and really tiring yoruself out. TRAC bars (Alsk known as panhard) stop this two of them stop it 100%. one may ber enough Usually the rear. in my case front.

Finally steering stabilizers. These do NOT change the handling so much as help you stay straight. Can also help if a tire blows.. Mine is the True-Ox Blue Center.  Safe-T-Steer makes one with an adjustable center point (From the driver's seat)  Those are my top picks

Thank you John. I: now have a much better understanding of those terms.  Also I was not aware Blue Ox makes a steering stabilizer.
Pat
 
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