Pat:
>To back up a little, I am proposing this system for a 30' C Mh. It looks like I need about 1k watts on the 12v side and 5k on the 120v side. A guestimate but I'm learning. Solarman has helped me with calcs and general info.<
1000 watts will give you ample if your usage is like ours. I can't use all our array generates.
>Elec space heaters on the solar? Probably not.<
Yeah, not practical. Heating takes lots of watts. Propane is a much better idea.
>We are planning to spend time in State Parks on the Nor. Ca, Ore, Wash coast May to Sept. to escape the desert heat of So. Nv. Hookups probably not the rule. Insolation table indicates 5.6 hours per day of good sun at the Portland Ore. latitude. <
A more likely limiting factor there may be tree cover and clouds.
>You settled on the 40v controller and panels. Why? How did you make that decision?<
It was based solely on the availability of less expensive residential panels that had much better performance than what I could get for the typical RV installation. Those panels are 72 cell instead of 36, and are therefore higher voltage. That dictated the controller.
>How many panels? I know you were willing to overkill the panels. Did you?<
Yes, but not as much as I thought. I no longer consider my install solar heavy. It is certainly adequate, but not, I think, overboard. One tends to get used to having almost limitless power, and when it is cloudy for a few days and I have to cut back, I don't like it.
I still bring along my Honda eu2000i generator, but haven't used it in close to 2 years now.
I bought six 205 watt panels because they would fit on my roof. I almost bought 7, but I would have had very little room to walk around them if I did that. I ended up with 1260 watts of panels. However, as they are flat mounted, their efficiency goes down. In bright sunlight near midday, I get about half of what they are rated for.
FWIW, the panels I have also use bypass diodes. If part of a panel gets shaded, it does not stop the rest of the panel from generating what it can. And, by using 40v panels, I don't have to put any panels in series to give the controller enough voltage to work with. Again, if one panel is shaded, it only takes that panel out of the equation as nothing else is connected in series with it.
>Battery bank?<
6 golf cart batteries. We have a high cargo carrying capacity on our Arctic Fox, so they are well within what the unit can carry, and combined weights of truck and trailer are well within what our 1 ton diesel is rated for.
>I'm now thinking 800 to 1000w in panels, a 60 or 80 controller , 6v batteries in series and parallel and a 2500 or 3k inverter.<
Those are figures that solarman is more qualified to comment on than I. However, I have found that our 80 amp controller is WAY overkill for what our panels can generate. The best I have been able to do is just over 50 amps in ideal conditions. A 60 amp would have been more than enough.
We use a 'cheapie' 2500 watt Sunforce inverter, and it does what we need. We just take turns using the microwave OR the toaster.
>If nothing else the overcab roof space may become useful.<
Indeed. I found that the cost of the panels is relatively small compared to the overall installation, which includes an expensive controller, and in my case, shipping. Whether I put up 4 panels or 6, the percentage change in total cost did not go up that much. I decided therefore to cover as much of the roof with panels as I could. I don't regret it one bit.
>My imaginary budget failed early on and I am currently hoping for the $3k range. <
That is about what my install cost me.