Hot Water Heater Question

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Janet_brandon

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Hi. We have a hot water heater problem. We have a Suburban 6 gallon, in a 2 year old TT, living in it FT. Within the last month or so, I noticed that after about 3 minutes, the shower runs cold. I used to be able to take at least a 6-7 minute shower. We changed the anode rod (it was full of calcium deposits) and the heating element (120 v, 1500 w). Used all the right parts and pieces and did everything correctly. That didn?t change anything with the shower. Today I turned on the propane to the water heater 15 minutes before my shower, electric was still on. I had the longest shower I had in a long time and no loss of hot water. Any ideas what the problem might be?
 
I'm assuming your asking why is working today? As opposed to the 3 minute showers you been having.

It could be a lot of variables.

Do you always run the electric and gas heat when taking a shower?

Could outside temperatures have any effects on your cold water temperatures? (reheating water as you use it and mixing extra cold water will take more hot water)

If you have a outside shower....Make sure it's turned off at the faucets. The shutoff at the shower head can cause hot & cold water to mix...Making you think your running out of hot water.
 
Check the resistance of the heating element per the manual.  Or just replace it for the heck of it.  Under $20 at most hardware stores.
 
8Muddypaws said:
Check the resistance of the heating element per the manual.  Or just replace it for the heck of it.  Under $20 at most hardware stores.
Click to expand...

The OP already did that. One other thing, if I remember correctly, the electric side and the propane side have separate thermostats. The propane side may be working correctly and the electric side not working correctly. They are accessable under the black rubber cover. If I remember correctly, the propane is on the left, and electric is on the right.
 
kdbgoat said:
The OP already did that. One other thing, if I remember correctly, the electric side and the propane side have separate thermostats. The propane side may be working correctly and the electric side not working correctly. They are accessable under the black rubber cover. If I remember correctly, the propane is on the left, and electric is on the right.
Click to expand...

Yes they do have separate T Stats. Although the one on the left is 110 Volt and the one on the right is 12 volt. I just got done working on one. It ended up being a bad 110 volt toggle switch and the wires at the junction box were burnt.
 
I have to ask, Why do you need a "HOT" water heater.  If the water is "hot" you don't need to heat it.  :)

If you just have a "Water Heater", then it heats whatever temperature water you have available.

Sorry, just attempting a little humor.
 
Janet_brandon said:
I had the longest shower I had in a long time and no loss of hot water. Any ideas what the problem might be?
Click to expand...
Janet_brandon
Why is a long shower with no loss of hot water a "problem"?
 
The electric side thermostat or high limit switch sounds like the problem to me unless as Rene mentioned, there's a wiring issue. The thermostat and high limit switch are a single unit, so determining which is at fault isn't necessary. Amazon lists most of the Suburban stats, but you'll need your model number to determine which one is correct for your unit.


https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=suburbn+water+heater+thermostat
 
AStravelers said:
I have to ask, Why do you need a "HOT" water heater.  If the water is "hot" you don't need to heat it.  :)

If you just have a "Water Heater", then it heats whatever temperature water you have available.

Sorry, just attempting a little humor.
Click to expand...

Amen! That always drives me crazy. Especially when I catch myself saying it, lol.
 
melbr00ks said:
Amen! That always drives me crazy. Especially when I catch myself saying it, lol.
Click to expand...

After the initial warm up to 120 degrees, my water heater kicks back on at ~110 degrees. I'd call that heating already hot water hotter, making it a true "hot water heater" at that point... ;)
 
The electric 1500 watt element is only delivers about 5000 btu's. The gas burner is 12,000 btu's. The gas will provide a faster recovery and will heat the water faster as it is being used. Another thing to consider is the temp of the water entering the water heater.
 
The gas & elect water heaters I have had, allowed both the elect element and gas to be on at the same time.  It not only heats the water faster, but should also keep the hot water flowing for longer.
 
AStravelers said:
The gas & elect water heaters I have had, allowed both the elect element and gas to be on at the same time.  It not only heats the water faster, but should also keep the hot water flowing for longer.
Click to expand...

Every time I?ve tried that the thermal fuse on our Atwood water heater blows and then we have no hot water until I fix it.  I carry spares.
 
8Muddypaws said:
Every time I?ve tried that the thermal fuse on our Atwood water heater blows and then we have no hot water until I fix it.  I carry spares.
Click to expand...

Do you position the thermal fuse as far away from the tank as the leads permit? The thermal is there as protection from an LP flare up at the adjustable air gate in case the burner assembly is plugged, so it should be spaced out from the terminals.
 
6 gallon water heater is never going to give you much hot water.  If you insist on long showers your only choice is run both.
 
8Muddypaws said:
Check the resistance of the heating element per the manual.  Or just replace it for the heck of it.  Under $20 at most hardware stores.
Click to expand...

Read OP's post #1. He already replaced it. Every thing is working. He just wants to know why, ;)
 
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