Negotiating on a Used Class C

Neither my husband or I have ever had an RV before but are wanting to purchase a used class C. I?ve read different articles on negotiating but am still not sure where to start. I?ve looked at the NADA values and the one we are zeroing in on is priced at the top end. How do you determine what to offer? Also, do y?all have any recommendations on 3rd party inspectors in Dallas who are trustworthy?

Thanks!

Welcome to the forum,

I'm guessing your looking at RV dealers...
Try the RVtrader

https://www.rvtrader.com/Class-Cs/rvs-for-sale?type=Class%20C%7C198069&zip=75039&radius=150

Yes, I found one on RVtrader that we are seriously considering offering on. I was asking for tips on actual negotiating?

There is no good or simple answer to the pricing question. The market for RVs is nothing like automobiles; there are both regional and seasonal affects on pricing and condition is is a major factor.  A brand or model that is popular in your shopping area may well be priced at or above NADA's estimate.  Price is important, of course, but don't get too wrapped up seeking some arbitrary percentage of discount or NADA valuation.  It's much important that you are comfortable with your choice and the price you are paying.

You can always make a relatively low offer and see where it goes, and you can increase it if rejected.  Assume the seller is asking what he hopes he can get but that he will accept something less. Making an offer is the only way to find out how much.  That process is wearisome for many people, but it's the best way to find just how low the dealer will go.  Keep in mind that you are buying a house rather than a vehicle and negotiate accordingly.  Shop around and seek out comparable models and get prices on them, even if they aren't 100% what you want. 

As for inspectors, there is a national organization, the NRVIA,  that will help you find a local qualified inspector.
https://nrvia.org/locate/
There are also a couple of national companies that claim to have inspectors available everywhere. I have no experience with them, so judge for yourself:https://lemonsquad.com/used-car-inspections/rvhttps://premierrvinspections.com/

An alternative is to hire a mobile RV service person and have them check out the items you want. However, you need to work out with him/her in advance what will be checked and the degree or depth of it. For example, he could turn the fridge on and see if it appears to respond, or he could wait to verify that it actually get cold (take several hours).

Thanks Gary! Because I?m new to all of this, I?m afraid I?m not sure what a ?reasonable? offer would be considered? I?m looking at a 2016 Forest River Prism diesel Class C with about 21k miles on it, and it?s priced at $59k. NADA shows $52k-$63k. I?ve read that RVs are often priced way above value so what is a reasonable offer?

Condition is everything in a used RV, the price on a how ever many year old class C may be a bargain, or it may be a rip off as it may be in need of a trip to the junk yard.  Most RV's die from rot caused by water intrusion, this damage can be hard to spot, and is often far more extensive than it first appears, and cost far more than is economically viable to repair.

All above ideas and recommendations are perfect.

My motto is: Make an offer, you can never offer less, but you can offer more.

They want to sell it more than you want to buy it.  If not they want it more than you.

travelfamily said:

Thanks Gary! Because I?m new to all of this, I?m afraid I?m not sure what a ?reasonable? offer would be considered? I?m looking at a 2016 Forest River Prism diesel Class C with about 21k miles on it, and it?s priced at $59k. NADA shows $52k-$63k. I?ve read that RVs are often priced way above value so what is a reasonable offer?

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Forget reasonable, the dealer wants to get as much for a unit as the customer is willing to spend, while the customer should be seeking the lowest price to buy it for.  You say NADA gives a range of 52K to 63K if it were me, I would start my offer at no more than 50K.  If the dealer does not accept, you need to determine how high within the range you are willing to go and how much you want the particular rig to decide on a price you can accept.  Keep in mind a couple things the RV industry is showing signs of weakening, sales are down and since this is a used unit, they likely want it off their lot to make room for a new unit.  Another approach that may work if you are paying cash and not financing, is to right out a check for the amount you are willing to pay (hopefully on the low side), leave the Pay too blank and present it to the salesman, indicating this is what you are willing to pay and will either put their name in the Pay too or go elsewhere.

"Reasonable" doesn't really matter, for the reason Gizmo gave.  If the lowest possible price is important to you, don't worry whether the seller will like you or think you are a jerk. Make a lowball offer and then wait for his counter, going as many rounds as needed to reach a compromise.  If you want to shorten the process and reduce the personal stress, make a higher initial offer.  Or just pay the asking price.

So what's "lowball"?  Probably on the order of 25%-30% less than the asking price. What's more likely to be accepted quickly after some grumbling? Maybe 5%-10% under.  That's as close as I can get without doing comparison shopping in the local market. Even then, some dealers set high asking prices and hope to get a buyer who hasn't shopped around (RV are often an impulse-buy), while others may price much closer to what they are willing to accept.  High asking prices are also used to allow a dealer to give higher-appearing trade-in allowances and to advertise attractive-sounding sale prices.

I?m looking at a 2016 Forest River Prism diesel Class C with about 21k miles on it, and it?s priced at $59k. NADA shows $52k-$63k.

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I would call that mid-range pricing rather than high.  21k miles is moderately high for a 2016 RV - the average is about 6k miles/year.  However, late model Class C's are generally in high demand, so the dealer probably figures it can be sold readily.  And when I look around the internet, e.g. RVt.com and RVtrader.com, I see 2016 Prisms [with lower mileage] priced well above $59k.  My guess would be the dealer has not inflated his asking price much and won't sell for much less.  The question is, does your version of "reasonable" match his?

I?ve read that RVs are often priced way above value so what is a reasonable offer?

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You have to shop around to determine that. Take a look at some of these, for example:
https://www.rvtrader.com/PRISM-24G-Forest-River-RVs/rvs-for-sale?type=Class%20C%7C198069&make=Forest%20River%7C2251946&model=PRISM%7C764831325&year=2015%3A2016


Before making an offer, ask what the "out-the-door" price would be, i.e. any prep or make-ready fees, "dealer fee", state vehicle fees, taxes, etc.  Some dealers add on substantial fees that mask a low asking price. The best way to get everything on the table is to ask them to quote the total cost to get buy the RV, aka  to get it "out the door".

These responses are so very helpful! Thank you so much!!!

You don't say if this is from a dealer or a private party, if it is from a private party I would suggest making your offer in writing over an email or similar, preferably after having viewed the coach, and explain in your offer why you are offering this amount, this can include things like noting the age of the tires / batteries, issues with the condition, etc.  Often private sellers will think their RV is in better shape than it actually is, sometimes they are selling because it has been sitting an not being used so they just don't notice these things.  As to pricing, I agree about making a low offer, just don't make it insultingly low if it is a private seller.  For example when I bought my current coach from a private seller the asking price was $25,000, I offered $19,000 including links to 2 others of the same model with asking prices of $17,000 and $18,000, including a note that I liked theirs better with its upgrades, and being a year or two newer, they countered at $20,500 which is what we settled on. 

Ike

when I bought my C , I could have spent less for the same model.  The big difference was, the previous owner took excellent care of it.
even building a cover for it,putting in electric and a dump station to keep the tanks extra clean. The stove and microwave had never been used.  They always cooked outside.  Though I did have a few issues with it, the tech said god this thing is in great shape.  So condition is everything.

Not knowing the condition of your I guess we really can't help with the price . If its from a dealer I certainly would want a really good guarantee...

  Before you even think of an offer, go look closely at the unit, NO HURRY,..( inside & out)  Then drive it,, no talk of price at this point! Let the owner/dealer "sell" the unit, you don't have to respond, just let him talk himself down. ( By being quiet you are not agreeing or disagreeing with anything, and your not talking yourself into the sale) Then some minor negotiating can be done, but nothing final until you think and discuss the deal with your mate ( At a different place)to determine if he/she agrees... You can always return and carry on where you left it and you will be better armed with knowledge.>>>Dan

Utclmjmpr said:

  Before you even think of an offer, go look closely at the unit, NO HURRY,.. Then drive it,, no talk of price at this point! Let the owner/dealer "sell" the unit, you don't have to respond, just let him talk himself down. ( By being quiet you are not agreeing or disagreeing with anything, and your not talking yourself into the sale) Then some minor negotiating can be done, but nothing final until you think and discuss the deal with your mate ( At a different place)to determine if he/she agrees... You can always return and carry on where you left it and you will be better armed with knowledge.>>>Dan

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A good strategy and to build on this, you might have a certified RV inspector or RV repairman go over it as Gary had suggested.  A good inspector will not only be thorough but will write down and discuss with you any components that have failed or questionable and rough estimate of cost to repair.  Armed with that info if you then decide to go through with buying, you can use the report in the negotiation.

When walking onto a sales lot, most sales people will "feel you out" ( What you are interested in, whats your budget,, finance or cash,,how many decision makers are involved,,where have you been looking,,& so & so. If he does not have in stock what you are looking for, he knows he has to "steer" you onto something else.. If you don't have two dimes to rub together he's not interested in wasting his time.. If you need financing he knows to adjust his figures..If there are two or more decision makers and you are by your self he does NOT WANT A ONE LEGGER.. ( He can't close without all decision makers present) ( If its a very busy lot his time is very valuable, he won't waste it) Within 5 minutes he will have you cataloged in his mind:: Buyer,,dreamer,, tire kicker,,one legger,,serious,, not serious,,knowledgeable or not,, bullshitter,, and so forth... He will adjust his approach accordingly. ( Don;t be surprised if he disappears)                              VOLUME TWO when I get more time.
                                                                      12 year sales team manager specializing in one on one sales
                                                                                              >>>Dan