Am I on the right track?

  Based on your post - sounds like you've done your research....and WELCOME to the RV world.  Its kinda addictive

  Used:  Leaks are your biggest concern.  Can be very hard to find, can be very damaging and very expensive to fix.  Maintenance is the key to avoiding them after you have the trailer.

  Fiberglass sided units show delamination from the outside.  Inside is spots and inconsistencies.  Peeling wallpaper.  You can find the studs typically by tapping the wall.....push on the studs pretty hard, see if there is give.  Make sure the floor doesn't have soft spots.  Etc, etc. 

  Good luck - welcome to the camping club.  Hope you LOVE what you end up with.

-Kyle

AndrewZ said:

Arch, a 3/4 ton is definitely in my future. Without getting too off-topic or starting the diesel vs gas debate, do you think a 3/4 ton gasser will do the trick? I ask because the HP/Torque numbers on the gas engines in the 3/4 and 1 tons aren't too much greater than my 5.7.

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IMHO the difference between gas and diesel is more about getting the right tool for the right job. If you are going to be towing something and driving in the mountains then a diesel is best. Otherwise a gasser will do just fine.

SeilerBird said:

IMHO the difference between gas and diesel is more about getting the right tool for the right job. If you are going to be towing something and driving in the mountains then a diesel is best. Otherwise a gasser will do just fine.

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Awesome. I'm still kicking this one around.  I definitely want to get back out to NM, CO and UT, so I may need the diesel. 

AndrewZ said:

Arch, a 3/4 ton is definitely in my future. Without getting too off-topic or starting the diesel vs gas debate, do you think a 3/4 ton gasser will do the trick? I ask because the HP/Torque numbers on the gas engines in the 3/4 and 1 tons aren't too much greater than my 5.7.

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Going up the mountain with gas or diesel is no problem.

Coming down the mountain is where the diesel pays for itself because of the braking effect with the diesel.  I have a gas motorhome and would love to have a diesel for just that reason.

  I wouldn't give up my diesel.  I just love driving this truck.  But gonna say, for occasional trips to the Rockies a gasser will get you through.  Look at the cost/performance and decide....

-Kyle

Chakara said:

  Based on your post - sounds like you've done your research....and WELCOME to the RV world.  Its kinda addictive

  Used:  Leaks are your biggest concern.  Can be very hard to find, can be very damaging and very expensive to fix.  Maintenance is the key to avoiding them after you have the trailer.

  Fiberglass sided units show delamination from the outside.  Inside is spots and inconsistencies.  Peeling wallpaper.  You can find the studs typically by tapping the wall.....push on the studs pretty hard, see if there is give.  Make sure the floor doesn't have soft spots.  Etc, etc. 

  Good luck - welcome to the camping club.  Hope you LOVE what you end up with.

-Kyle

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Kyle, thanks a lot. I'm learning more each day and I really appreciate the help you and all the other members have provided. 

A diesel RV costs more than a gasser but it worth more money on trade in so it is a wash. Diesel maintenance costs more than gasser maintenance but the diesel goes longer between maintenance trips so it is a wash. Diesel gets better gas mileage than a gasser but diesel fuel is more expensive so it is a wash. It really comes down to the right tool for the right job. I have owned and driven both and I don't have a favorite.

AndrewZ said:

Arch, a 3/4 ton is definitely in my future. Without getting too off-topic or starting the diesel vs gas debate, do you think a 3/4 ton gasser will do the trick? I ask because the HP/Torque numbers on the gas engines in the 3/4 and 1 tons aren't too much greater than my 5.7.

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We have a gas truck and apart from having to go into 4 wheel low on a 14% hill it does just fine. Even then it pulled the trailer up that hill no problem.
Coming downhill Steve uses the gears for engine braking and it works a treat and isn't screaming which some folks say it can do.
We love ours and it saved us a lot of money.

Do you think a 3/4 ton gasser will do the trick? I ask because the HP/Torque numbers on the gas engines in the 3/4 and 1 tons aren't too much greater than my 5.7. 

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The engine is not the critical factor.  Heck, a 1 hp engine will do fine with the right gearing.  At worst you may be slower than you like on steep grades.
The diesel advantage is that it produces its max rated hp at relatively low rpms, while the gas engine has to rev up high to reach its rating. That means more engine rpms & noise than many people will tolerate and weaker acceleration from a standing stop or low speed. It also gets better fuel economy under heavy loads, primarily because of its higher compression ratio and the somewhat higher energy content of diesel fuel.

Gary RV_Wizard said:

The engine is not the critical factor.  Heck, a 1 hp engine will do fine with the right gearing.  At worst you may be slower than you like on steep grades.
The diesel advantage is that it produces its max rated hp at relatively low rpms, while the gas engine has to rev up high to reach its rating. That means more engine rpms & noise than many people will tolerate and weaker acceleration from a standing stop or low speed. It also gets better fuel economy under heavy loads, primarily because of its higher compression ratio and the somewhat higher energy content of diesel fuel.

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Yes sir, I understand all that.  I was more asking about the differences between the gas engines in the 1/2 tons vs those available in the 3/4 - 1 tons since they're not that far off from each other.  Anyway, based on the feedback from folks here, it doesn't sound like it'll be a problem, so I won't give it another thought.   

jackiemac said:

We have a gas truck and apart from having to go into 4 wheel low on a 14% hill it does just fine. Even then it pulled the trailer up that hill no problem.
Coming downhill Steve uses the gears for engine braking and it works a treat and isn't screaming which some folks say it can do.
We love ours and it saved us a lot of money.

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Ah great! This is just the kind of information I'm looking for.  Thanks!

AndrewZ said:

Ah great! This is just the kind of information I'm looking for.  Thanks!

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We tow a 10,000lbs trailer for info.

jackiemac said:

We tow a 10,000lbs trailer for info.

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Ok great. That really puts my mind at ease. Mind if I ask what year/make/model truck you have?

AndrewZ said:

Ok great. That really puts my mind at ease. Mind if I ask what year/make/model truck you have?

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You can find what Toys most people have by looking at the signature...See Attached picture

What Bob said  ;D

jackiemac said:

What Bob said  ;D

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Duh!  :-[ That's the exact truck I'm looking at though!

AndrewZ said:

Duh!  :-[ That's the exact truck I'm looking at though!

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Well we really love ours. Bought it for several thousand dollars cheaper at Denis Dillon in Idaho and drove it back to our trailer in Vegas.

They sell lots of trucks to out of state folks and even pick you up at the airport!

Pretty much any truck can ?pull? heavy trailers. Yes, acceleration will be slower but that is what the transmission is for. Stopping can be an issue . Bigger trucks have much beefier brake systems. Diesels (Ram Cummins in particular) have great exhaust brakes as well.
A light truck is going to be affected by the wind on the side of the trailer much more than a heavier truck.

The big thing though is load capacity. Look at the yellow boardered sticker on the drivers doorpost for the capacity of YOUR truck. Your truck was weighed at the last stop in the factory and this sticker printed. It takes in to consideration all the options on your truck.

A travel trailer is going to load down your truck behind the rear axel with 10-12% of the GVWR of the trailer.

So, knowing your trucks load capacity and subtracting your dog, gear, tools and your weight over 150 leaves you with the number available for the trailer. Multiply by 10 and you have the approximate max GVWR your trailer can weigh.

I drove a Ram 1500 hemi for 13 years and towed a few trailers a bit over my weight class. Scary. Driving slow. Never on highway. Always worried if I could stop in time... never a problem with the go part.

I now have a 3 year old Ram 3500 Cummins. Those trailers I worried about? I hardly notice them.

Lynx is right about the CCC, it took us a while to get the right truck to carry the weight. Ours is good in the wind with our set up.

Lynx0849 said:

So, knowing your trucks load capacity and subtracting your dog, gear, tools and your weight over 150 leaves you with the number available for the trailer. Multiply by 10 and you have the approximate max GVWR your trailer can weigh.

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Thanks very much for the detailed reply. That clears things up a lot. So if I have this right, it should be something like this:
                                   
                              Load Capacity =  1672 lbs
                      Bodyweight (196-150) =  46 lbs
                                                Dog  =  60 lbs
                                                Stuff  = - 300lbs 
                                                                1266 x 10 = 12,660 lbs available max trailer GVWR

The weight of the tools/gear/food, represented as "Stuff" in the equation, is just a hypothetical, as I have no idea how how crap I'll be carrying. I'm more concerned that I understood your explanation. If I'm way off, please let me know.