Suncruiser Fresh Water Leak

Hello All,

We are camped at Great Outdoors in Titusville Fl for the winter and Just finishing our first year traveling.  I noted water dripping and have been trying to locate the problem without success.  My rig is a 2016 Itasca Suncruiser 38Q.  I?ve made an appt at the on site RV Repair facility (2wks out) and thought I would pulse those with more experience than me for some possible ideas while waiting.  I?m a reasonably good trouble shooter and I?m very concerned that even if they can find it, not sure how it can be fixed.

I?ve attached 3 pics to help understand my issue for anyone interested and has the time to look this over.  (First time with pics, so I hope I've done this right!)  The drip is clean water.  I think I?ve narrowed down that the leak is in my fresh water supply.  I?ve disconnected the supply hose and turned on my water pump.  It pulses a couple of seconds every 11 min or so.  When I  crawl underneath, I can see wetness seeping from overlapped sheeting rear of the back axle, center of rig, and just above the forward gas tank area.  The water then drips down the side (forward end) of the gas tank on the waste dump control side.  The only other wet location is in the dump area on an upper pocket area on the forward side as if water is running down from the center of the rig to that side although I can not see a path for the water, just a pocket filled with water.

Things I?ve checked: All plumbing visible from outside panels, all connections in the dump area, water pump and water heater connections, checked all faucet feeds, removed vents from shower base to view  water feed lines from shower and, everything appears dry.  I am unable to see the lines that cross over the rig from side to side where I suspect the leak is due to waste tanks.  There does not appear to be any fittings there from schematic, just tubing which I guess might be cracked but I'm unable to view.

As I said earlier, I?ve got an appt in two weeks,  the leak isn?t major, but I?m pulling what little hair I have left trying to figure this out. 

I?ve called Winnebago Tech support and they suggested draining the system and pressurizing  the lines and listen for leaks but I?m not sure I have the volume in my pump that would allow that without turning off and on (noisy)  and not sure I could hear anything while parked outside.  To be honest, I?m a bit nervous pressurizing the lines as well. 

Would appreciate any ideas or suggestions
Thanks
Dave


edit by staff - changed message icon to topic solved

When they said to drain the system and then pressurize it I think they mean using air. Pressurize it to maybe 50/60 PSI then go around listening for air leaking. A water leak can flow quite a distance before it is seen whereas leaking air does not flow.

Rene T said:

When they said to drain the system and then pressurize it I think they mean using air. Pressurize it to maybe 50/60 PSI then go around listening for air leaking. A water leak can flow quite a distance before it is seen whereas leaking air does not flow.

Click to expand...

Tracing a water leak with air is very effective. I would add not just draining the system but blow out the lines then pressurize.

Thank you both for responding.  I'm going to give the drain, blow out and pressurize a try.  Will let you know how I make out.
Dave

DaveRB55 said:

Thank you both for responding.  I'm going to give the drain, blow out and pressurize a try.  Will let you know how I make out.
Dave

Click to expand...

Make sure you shut off the electric power to your hot water heater element. If you don't, you stand a good chance of burning it out.

Thanks for the warning.  Silly question but do I need to drain the hot water tank or will that blow out when I hook up the air and open the faucets?

^^ not sure ^^

I had an annoying fresh water leak and finally tracked it down to a weeping fresh water tank drain valve. Having dealt with leaks with our various sailboats, water can travel a long way before it makes an appearance.

DaveRB55 said:

Thanks for the warning.  Silly question but do I need to drain the hot water tank or will that blow out when I hook up the air and open the faucets?

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It will blow out water until the level of the water drops below the outlet of the WH tank.

Back Again,

I disconnected water lines, blew out water and closed off each faucet.  No sound from below that I could find.  I have a single control shower handle and I could hear a slight spitting noise behind it that stopped when I removed air.  I began to remove the two screws from the face place and it felt like the unit was going to fall down the back of the shower.  Is this normal?  I would think it would be supported by a bracket.  Also the unit has to be tied to shower hose up above right?   

Just a little nervous moving forward and thought I would check before proceeding.  Any comments?

I would assume nothing with an RV, except if they could cut a corner, they probably did.

Maybe remove facet handle, attached a thin wire or strong string, then proceed.  Problem is, if it is not mounted, you'll have a heck of a time getting that trim kit back on.  I couldn't imagine it would be hanging back there with Pex attached.

Wow, it pretty much is just handing there. Not sure how anyone would ever replace it without tearing up the shower hole but I should be able to get it back together.  The little spittle of air I heard stopped...nothing I did to stop it.  Also poked a flashlight in and everything looked dry in back of the shower faucet.  I'm beginning to wonder if I have a leak.  My compressor is a 150 that i can regulate down to pressurize the system.  (50 psi).  I shut the pump off and after 25 min, the high pressure gauge has only moved 5 psi.  Seems awful small compared to the morning puddle of water I have and the constant drip.  The water pump was pretty much kicking on every 11 min or so for a short burst.  Not sure what else to try.

The little spittle of air
moved 5 psi

Those statements would say to me leak. A very small leak..In shifting the facet around you may have temporary stop the leak. The Pex may have shifted when you were removing the cover.

I'm re-attaching your picture with some arrows

Red Arrow - What is this? does it have water running in it?
Blue Arrow - What does the yellow line represent? And does it have water running in it?
Green Arrows - Likely leak spots.

DaveRB55 said:

Wow, it pretty much is just handing there. Not sure how anyone would ever replace it without tearing up the shower hole but I should be able to get it back together.  The little spittle of air I heard stopped...nothing I did to stop it.  Also poked a flashlight in and everything looked dry in back of the shower faucet.  I'm beginning to wonder if I have a leak.  My compressor is a 150 that i can regulate down to pressurize the system.  (50 psi).  I shut the pump off and after 25 min, the high pressure gauge has only moved 5 psi.  Seems awful small compared to the morning puddle of water I have and the constant drip.  The water pump was pretty much kicking on every 11 min or so for a short burst.  Not sure what else to try.

Click to expand...

While you had the valve assembly out, did you try try tighten up the fittings a little. You should be able to tighten them as tight as you can only using your hands. No wrenches.

Is it possible that it leaks only when the shower valve is opened?  If you pressurized and no hissing, and the leak was after the valve, maybe leaking on backside of shower head?  Just thinking outload... 

Thank you to everyone for your assistance.  Gizmo, I agree with your pointers on probable leaks.  When I removed the screws with the shower faucet faceplate, the housing was just hanging.  I had to hold on to the faucet stem as I was nervous I would push it in.  I don't think it would fall as it was connected to the upper shower connection but I was being extra careful.  Honestly don't know how someone would replace or repair.  Looked like the cutout with just barely big enough.  I could see no evidence of water anywhere behind the shower.

On the picture, Gizmo sent the two lines coming down from the shower actually go toward the outside wall first then bends towards the back of the rig. There is a space gap under the shower and I can see the lines going across, again no wetness.  From what I can tell the leak seems to be below the floor in the gap area where the storage tanks are.  As I can see lots of areas on either side of the tanks (all dry) the area where tubes go across above the drive train can not be seen. 

There are sheet panels that sit on the chassis rails that forms the floor for the tanks.  Are those removed to find leaks?  I have an appointment with the RV service center here in 2 wks but I'm wondering now if I should look for a Winnebago approved repair center.  How is the technician going to troubleshoot this any further?  Do they have scope snakes to probe areas for problems like this?   

Again thank you all for your support, Got everything back together but the leak persists.  Any further comments are welcome.

Dave

The repair tech will likely use an endoscope to locate the leak. Depending on the location of the leak things may have to be removed.
You may want to invest in a endoscope $20 will buy a decent one. Mine connects to my phone and works fairly well.

DaveRB55 said:

....There are sheet panels that sit on the chassis rails that forms the floor for the tanks.  Are those removed to find leaks?  .....

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Yup, that's basically the plan. You start taking things apart until the problem is found.

As far as taking your unit to a Winnebago dealer, unless you are familiar with the quality of their service department I would stick with the mobile RV service tech - since he has a two week wait list, I'm going to guess he's good. My rule of thumb about RV dealer service is I assume they are incompetent unless proven otherwise. The exception is Winnebago factory service - I've used them many times going back to 2006 and they are about as good as you will find with perhaps the exception of an extraordinarily good small shop.

Gizmo100 said:

The repair tech will likely use an endoscope to locate the leak. Depending on the location of the leak things may have to be removed.
You may want to invest in a endoscope $20 will buy a decent one. Mine connects to my phone and works fairly well.

Click to expand...

I was just going to suggest buying an endoscope.

Buy an Endoscope...great idea, thank you.  Ordered one this morning!  This thing is driving me nuts.  As I was removing my air compressor connection and re-attaching water, my wife started a load of wash and I saw faster water dripping than I have.  Puddle was about 2 ft wide.  This morning, she is doing another load and the puddle is about 5 inches round with very little drip.  Go Figure?  Can't wait to snake things out.  Thanks again

Keep up posted...Things like this keep me from sleeping at night ;D

Hello Everyone,

My apologies for not getting back on this issue, we had some travel away from the motorhome for most of Feb.  I did purchase the scope to find the leak.  its a very useful tool although somewhat difficult to view as things are magnified quite a bit.  I did determine the leak was indeed coming from the back of the shower water control.  There was no way I could access the back of it as the shower opening was way too small.  Through a permanent resident, I was recommended to use Coastal RV in Cocoa Beach.  Speaking with the mechanic Doug, he felt sure he could get in there until he saw it!  The shower was obviously installed and then the walls built around it.  The walls had to be removed to get to the plumbing.  One of the fittings had been cross threaded and then backed off and reinstalled.  Doug got the whole job done in one day and you can not tell it was ever removed.  Coastal was very helpful and sympathetic to the fact we were full timers.  He set me up for an am appointment within a day and had me in and out.  I was not impressed with the on-site RV repair facility.  They put me out 2 wks, with a week of estimated work with no facilities to continue to live in.    Coastal RV is not the most updated facility but the mechanics know their stuff and were very efficient.  I would go back in a heartbeat and recommend you give them a try if in this area. 

One thing I was worried about is buckling in the floor after all the water dries.  Doug warned me this could occur.  It has been a month and and sure enough I'm seeing some flexing in my floor around the leak area so I need to have this checked out.  Yes, I will be going back to Coastal RV.

Thanks again for everyone's input and assistance.
Dave