How Hot is Too Hot
- Thread starter OhioBill
- Start date
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
johnaye
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2016
- Posts
- 273
I know nothing about your unit, but for me, anything outside of the normal range is a cause for worry,
Back2PA
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2015
- Posts
- 5,766
My Cat 350 ran at about 200-205. Under extreme conditions (wide open long hill climb in 110 degree temps) I'd see 210. I don't recall what temp a good coolant mix boils but I'd start getting very uncomfortable at 215-220.
If you have a rear radiator you'd want to drop a gear to increase fan speed climbing hills
If you have a rear radiator you'd want to drop a gear to increase fan speed climbing hills
Kevin Means
Site Team
I believe the "hot" mark on our Tour's engine temp gauge is at 240 degrees. Our coach has a DEF system, and I believe they run a few degrees hotter than non-DEF equipped engines. Our engine normally runs at about 195-200 degrees, but it's not unusual at all to see 210. Last summer, when we started up the grade on I-8 west of El Centro, the air temp was 112 degrees. We were towing and the engine hit 221 degrees. I manually downshifted one gear and the temp dropped to 214 within 30 seconds, and stayed there until we got to the top of the grade.
Kev
Kev
John Canfield
Site Team
Diesels of your era will run much cooler (probably below 200F) than later engines due to emission requirements of the later engines My Cummins ISL will creep up 15 or 20 degrees on a long steep grade at high altitudes, I have to work the gears to keep the engine RPMs at or above 2,000 for max cooling effectiveness.
I'm not sure if your engine has On Board Diagnostics, I suspect it does though - if the ECM isn't setting a check engine light (service code) I wouldn't worry about it.
I'm not sure if your engine has On Board Diagnostics, I suspect it does though - if the ECM isn't setting a check engine light (service code) I wouldn't worry about it.
Utclmjmpr
Well-known member
The area you have to watch if you have a rear radiator,(and you probably have) is the cleanliness of the radiator. Rear types are very sensitive to crud buildup.>>>Dan
John Canfield
Site Team
^^ Absolutely correct! ^^
John Canfield
Site Team
I've watched Freightliner factory service clean rear radiators before, they use a heated high volume low pressure pressure sprayer. I have no idea what they use for a cleaning solution.
Ray-IN
Well-known member
I use air conditioner foaming cleaner, you may also use Simple Green.OhioBill said:
8Muddypaws
Well-known member
I wouldn?t use simple green on aluminum. Any good auto parts store will have a radiator cleaning solution safe for aluminum. It will be a bit more than the dollar store stuff but well worth not etching your radiator and charge air cooler.
John Canfield
Site Team
I've used Simple Green on my side radiator for years but I pressure wash (carefully I might add) it soon after application. I'm not sure if this is an urban myth or has some merit. Aluminum will naturally oxidize:8Muddypaws said:
[...Aluminum oxide appears as a powdery white or dull gray coating. As oxidation occurs, it hardens and creates a protective layer over the newly exposed areas of corroded aluminum. The aluminum corrosion process is actually halted by oxidation ? the metal won't continue to deteriorate unless the aluminum oxide is removed....]
I have lots of different types and alloys of aluminum stock, I should set up a simple test and soak different alloys in a full strength Simple Green. When I weld (TIG process) aluminum, you can watch the hard oxidized coating burn away to reveal pure aluminum which then can be welded.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Per the company's FAQ page, Simple Green is safe enough on aluminum if rinsed thoroughly with 10 minutes or so. They also make a non-acidic formula especially for aluminum and plastics (Extreme Simple Green). It's probably not even a concern unless you wash it often. OTOH, Dawn and similar degreaser/detergents work well enough.
8Muddypaws
Well-known member
I’ll stick with Dawn from now on. (Hey! I’m a poet now!)
My pressure washer broke. It sprays the first time you pull the trigger but once you release it it won’t spray again until you kill & restart the engine.
My pressure washer broke. It sprays the first time you pull the trigger but once you release it it won’t spray again until you kill & restart the engine.
John Canfield
Site Team
There's also degreasers at auto parts stores which would probably cut through oils and road grime faster than Dawn or Joy (and better than Simple Green.)8Muddypaws said:
It must be the pump, if the frame and engine are in good shape you probably can buy a replacement pump.
I replaced the pump on my Karcher pressure washer (2500 psi and a 5 hp Honda) a couple of years ago and the suction feature is broken again, I think that pump is going south. It's 20 years old so I treated myself to a belt driven Pressure Pro 4000 psi & 11.7 hp Honda pressure washer (aluminum frame), just used it yesterday for the first time. What a beast.
