Negotiating price new rv 20 to 30% msrp?

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nakamuru

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I read some posts on here people were able to negotiate new rvs down to 20 to 30% off MSRP. Whoa that's a lot! Not sure the comparison to cars as my parents did that for me (11 years ago) . Back then I did my research and saw the prices aiming for and went in with my dad to negotiate but when I started talking the dealer got upset and told us basically to leave lol. I didnt do anything rude but just compare with another dealership. Etc..  Anyways that kind of traumatized me cause a). Not much of a expert in dealing b) I do look really young (still look same I did 11 year ago . I think its parents and asian genes). So they dont take me serious.

Anyways back to the 20 to 35% off new rv. So if questions I have are:

1).  If I see a camp trailer at 20k some people are able to get it too 12k? (Which is 35%). I'm guessing if maybe the rv is new but older?

2). Or in guessing if the camper is higher priced then more percentage can be taken off?

3). Is there way to deal with prices online as I just dont trust dealers after my first encounter. Guy was real *******. I will look at the rv in person first and make sure it's too my liking.

4). What is usually the average percentage off the MSRP people usually get for 20k camper budget?




 
Do not negotiate and do not worry about % off MSRP
MSRP IN the RV world is pretty much whatever the dealer says he wants it to be. You can find identical units with different MSRP's at different dealers.
The way to do your shopping is shop before you go. KNow what the dealer has in stock and what you are willing to pay for it.
Arrange your own financing if necessary

GO into the dealer with your name, address and phone number on a nice piece of paper.
Introduce yourself by first name and look the unit over.
Be nice but state you are just looking.
If you like the unit tell the salesman the following. I am willing to buy the unit for $------- out the door price. If you say yes I am prepared to close the deal today. If you say no I am leaving. Here is my name etc while you go  and talk to whom ever you need to. If the answer is No then I am leaving.
IF yes when he returns then close deal. But be carefully of sneaky fees remember you said "OUT THE DOOR". If he jerks you around leave.
If he says no then leave. He may try to get  you to negotiate. DO NOT! YOU cannot win the game.
If your price is reasonable he will call you before you get home. IF he does not the in a day or 2 CALL him and ask why your offer was not accepted. You can then raise your offer a bit if you want to BUT you are not under the pressure you were at the dealer.

NOW to the real question Why are you buying new when used  is MUCH better bang for the buck. There are lots of units out there bought new just sitting after the first year of use because the owner has lost interest. divorced, lost job  on and on.
NEW units sometimes have defects in them that are not evident at first purchase and are in the shop for long periods getting fixed. These are usually taken care of the first year under warranty
 
darsben said:
Do not negotiate and do not worry about % off MSRP
MSRP IN the RV world is pretty much whatever the dealer says he wants it to be. You can find identical units with different MSRP's at different dealers.
The way to do your shopping is shop before you go. KNow what the dealer has in stock and what you are willing to pay for it.
Arrange your own financing if necessary

NOW to the real question Why are you buying new when used  is MUCH better bang for the buck.
Click to expand...
I think darsben is confusing sticker price with MSRP. MSRP is set by the manufacturer. The ?list? price is the MSRP plus whatever adders the dealer thinks they can get away wit - prep, transportation, etc. Ignore those items completely. They have nothing to do with the price. We would investigate to find MSRP (google is your friend), then offer 35% off. If dealer countered at anything less than 30% off, we just walked. BTW, our last travel trailer was bought off a small dealer?s lot, advertised and sold at 33% off. No haggling needed. We were happy with the deal.

As to used vs. new, we have bought both. For an inexperienced RV owner, you can get some real dogs buying used. If you do not feel confident that you know a good unit when you find it, you can many times find a competent RV inspector to give it the once over. Water damage is insidious, not always obvious, and can ruin your unit in less than a year. To find an inspector, ask here for recommendations, giving the unit?s location. Water issues are the primary thing to watch for in used travel trailers.
 
If your 11 years older now,, you should be over being intimidated by anyone.. If not you need the practice to get over it.>>>Dan
 
You will find most negotiate down around that 35% off MSRP. I had 3 dealers with the same unit I was looking to purchase and got 3 different prices. 28% off to 36% off. I went for the 36% and had to travel from SE PA to outside Detroit. It was a nice experience, we were able to make the purchase Friday night, stay in the dealers lot overnight, go over the unit extensively Saturday morning and head back home. Saved roughly 5K.
 
I sort of agree with Darsben.  I used the same technique to do a recent car purchase.  We had to have a car and as our old car was totaled in an accident.  We got our desired list down to a 2014 or earlier Honda CRV or a Chevrolet Equinox.  I used the USAA buying service to research cars.  USAA is basically True Car with a minor discount.  One dealer called and talked me into going to see one of his cars.  We had already decided what the most we were willing to pay based on researching car values and since I had never driven an Equinox I wanted to try one.  After the test drive, I made an out the door offer.  Of course, the salesman took it away and came back about $1,500 higher.  I agreed to go up another $500 but dealer would not drop.  The next day I sent e-mails to three dealers on three different cars.  I asked for an out the door price.  The responses were almost equal and were within $300 of each other.  All were below the price I had offered the day before.  We chose one from Courtesy Chevrolet in Phoenix.  The reason I mention the dealer is the surprises at the end.  After the test drive and completing the paperwork, we were told they miscalculated the sales tax and the price was actually $35.00 less.  We are happy with the car and the price.  I used the same thing when I bought my DP.  I made an out the door offer and would have walked away if it was not accepted.  As far as I am concerned, out the door is the only price to talk about.
 
Yes, the MSRP and sticker price are two different things and as stated above, the factory sets the former and the dealer sets the latter -- usually, as you cited, something along the lines of 20-30% less than MSRP to show "what a KILLER deal they're giving you!" But in my experience, that discounted sticker price will be pretty consistent from dealer to dealer. I think the best approach you can take is just know what you're willing to spend, TOTAL, and shop and compare and shop and compare and shop and compare. Of course, the internet is your friend in this process. You might find three pretty similar (or maybe even identical) RVs at three different dealers. Tell each one that you're shopping but ready to buy when you find the right deal, and get their "very best price" on the unit(s) they have on site, to compare. Don't get into a discussion with them about what you're looking for -- you already found it by this point and all they are trying to do there is find in-roads to sell you with. So that's the number you go with for your comparison and choice. But yes, be ready to also be sold, or attempted to be sold, lots of other extras -- some of which may seem worthwhile to you and some of which probably won't. Being ready to BUY and ready to WALK AWAY are two very good techniques and "weapons" you have. Dealers of course have to make a profit and I'm guessing that they usually won't turn down an offer that's close to the current street price. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
Quick Rookie Follow Up, I went to Newmar site, and I do not see anything about MSRP. 

Questions:

Do you contact Newmar and ask and them what is the MSRP, then add the prices for the options and use this as the figure of MSRP for that unit you are purchasing?

-or-

When you go to NADA Blue Book on line

https://www.nadaguides.com/RVs/2019/Canyon-Star/M-3723-Ford-320hp/6587699/Values

Is the "Suggested List Price" the MSRP of the unit?


Also when purchasing used I had read when finding the NADA price for "USED" RV prices, select "NO" options and you should be paying USED somewhere in the "Low" to "Average" price but closer to "Low" 

Am interested in the board feedback from those who have buying knowledge.
 
MSRP = Manufacturers SUGGESTED Retail Price.

RVs are not required to have the same standardized window sticker pricing as for cars & lt Trucks, so dealers may make up their own "suggested" or "list" price and include dealer-add-ons (e.g. paint protection), prep/make-ready, or other nebulous charges.

If you identify a particular model & option configuration, some manufacturers will generate an MSRP price if you inquire. Others may just give a base or "starting at" MSRP for the model and tell you to contact a dealer.
 
Thanks Gary.  I have a PPL near where I live down here in South Texas and we are going out to walk the lots today and look at some of the used ones, there is nothing on their current inventory that really jumps out at me as a gotta have it but just want to look at some used anyway.  Someone mentioned, and I did review, the link on PPL of what actually sold and at what price over the past year and that also helps give me a better idea of what is fair pricing.  We have kind of done a 180 flip in our way of thinking and am leaning more towards a used Diesel.  Reading the posts definitely sheds a light on how you are instantly in a situation where you are going to lose alot of cash on the resale when you buy new.  I am not looking to low ball and steal a RV, just wanting not to drastically over pay.
 
A consignment sale is a private sale, even if a dealer like PPL is involved as the sales agent.  Private sale prices tend to be the low side vs dealer prices, both actual and "asking".  Except for some very popular models, I would assume that the PPL sale price is probably low-retail.  Maybe even less if the condition is mediocre or worse. The condition, perceived or actual, can drive as much as a 10% swing in price. More in extreme cases.
 
darsben said:
Do not negotiate and do not worry about % off MSRP
MSRP IN the RV world is pretty much whatever the dealer says he wants it to be. You can find identical units with different MSRP's at different dealers.
The way to do your shopping is shop before you go. KNow what the dealer has in stock and what you are willing to pay for it.
Arrange your own financing if necessary

GO into the dealer with your name, address and phone number on a nice piece of paper.
Introduce yourself by first name and look the unit over.
Be nice but state you are just looking.
If you like the unit tell the salesman the following. I am willing to buy the unit for $------- out the door price. If you say yes I am prepared to close the deal today. If you say no I am leaving. Here is my name etc while you go  and talk to whom ever you need to. If the answer is No then I am leaving.
IF yes when he returns then close deal. But be carefully of sneaky fees remember you said "OUT THE DOOR". If he jerks you around leave.
If he says no then leave. He may try to get  you to negotiate. DO NOT! YOU cannot win the game.
If your price is reasonable he will call you before you get home. IF he does not the in a day or 2 CALL him and ask why your offer was not accepted. You can then raise your offer a bit if you want to BUT you are not under the pressure you were at the dealer.

NOW to the real question Why are you buying new when used  is MUCH better bang for the buck. There are lots of units out there bought new just sitting after the first year of use because the owner has lost interest. divorced, lost job  on and on.
NEW units sometimes have defects in them that are not evident at first purchase and are in the shop for long periods getting fixed. These are usually taken care of the first year under warranty
Click to expand...

When you mean arrange your own financing do you mean getting financing from the banks separately? I will be paying directly with non financing as I really don't like debt and don't buy until I know I can afford something while having backup. I used to be in debt in my college years and it was one of worst times in my life. Credit card companies are evil lol..

As for negotiating and finding prices etc, Is there any place (online or locally) I can find brokerages who are able to do all th dealing (I know I will have to pay them but I'm just really not into the price or researching due to working too much at moment).
 
UTTransplant said:
I think darsben is confusing sticker price with MSRP. MSRP is set by the manufacturer. The ?list? price is the MSRP plus whatever adders the dealer thinks they can get away wit - prep, transportation, etc. Ignore those items completely. They have nothing to do with the price. We would investigate to find MSRP (google is your friend), then offer 35% off. If dealer countered at anything less than 30% off, we just walked. BTW, our last travel trailer was bought off a small dealer?s lot, advertised and sold at 33% off. No haggling needed. We were happy with the deal.

As to used vs. new, we have bought both. For an inexperienced RV owner, you can get some real dogs buying used. If you do not feel confident that you know a good unit when you find it, you can many times find a competent RV inspector to give it the once over. Water damage is insidious, not always obvious, and can ruin your unit in less than a year. To find an inspector, ask here for recommendations, giving the unit?s location. Water issues are the primary thing to watch for in used travel trailers.
Click to expand...


So you are saying you walked into a lot and went directly to one you were interested and asked for 33% off and ended the deal instantly? That would be great to experience that lol. 

I did hear lot about water issues where you can't see it and later the camper (for instance on a truck) collapses.  Where would one find a rv inspector? Yelp?
 
nakamuru said:
When you mean arrange your own financing do you mean getting financing from the banks separately? I will be paying directly with non financing as I really don't like debt and don't buy until I know I can afford something while having backup. I used to be in debt in my college years and it was one of worst times in my life. Credit card companies are evil lol..

As for negotiating and finding prices etc, Is there any place (online or locally) I can find brokerages who are able to do all th dealing (I know I will have to pay them but I'm just really not into the price or researching due to working too much at moment).
Click to expand...
Oh no! I do hope you will reconsider.

You're of course right - being in out-of-control debt is horrible! BUT, you don't need to be out of control. Paying cash on a depreciating secured purchase such as a car or RV is actually losing you money. Instead arrange to finance, at say 5% and put the 'cash' into a high yield account at say 15-20% - that way you can offset the depreciation of the liability (the RV). Your cash is growing while your RV is depreciating. so that when you come to sell you will not sell at a loss - maybe you'll even come out on top. If you buy cash you are losing whatever amount the RV is depreciating by PLUS what you could have been making with your cash in a high yield account.

Don't let one bad experience keep robbing you even now that you are out of debt. Be in control and make your money work for you, not against you. And while you do that you will be getting a better credit rating which will save you thousands when you need a mortgage or a loan for a business venture.

When I was a realtor, the only clients I had that struggled to get a mortgage were ones who had never managed credit because it meant they had no credit rating. THe banks couldn't trust them with a loan because they hadn't proven themselves. It cost them dearly in rates and family issues.

As for credit cards, just pay off your balance EVERY month and you'll be fine. Credit card companies don't want you to get behind on your payments - that is why the charges are high - to discourage you. they make their money from the stores. While you collect miles. We never pay to fly, and we have to fly a lot. We just make sure we never spend more than we have and we are benefiting from the system, not under it. Hope this helps.
 
This thread has a "Best By" date that came and went a few years ago.
 
X-Roughneck said:
Quick Rookie Follow Up, I went to Newmar site, and I do not see anything about MSRP.

Questions:

Do you contact Newmar and ask and them what is the MSRP, then add the prices for the options and use this as the figure of MSRP for that unit you are purchasing?

-or-

When you go to NADA Blue Book on line

2019 Canyon Star M-3723 Ford 320hp Prices

2019 Canyon Star M-3723 Ford 320hp Prices and Used Values | J.D. Power
www.nadaguides.com

Is the "Suggested List Price" the MSRP of the unit?
Click to expand...
If considering a new Newmar, contact the Dealer and ask for a "Build Sheet" for the Model and Floor Plan you're considering. It will contain all of the prices for the unit and options. Got ours for 27.5% off (including special orders). Been lead to believe it's difficult to get that much off a Newmar at this time. All 2022 production is booked.
Good luck
 
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