Good-morning, I'm looking to purchase a new Micro Minnie 2100BH. My concern is whether my '16 4Runner has the right specs to tow comfortably. The plan would be to purchase the anti sway, braking and weight distribution system to help out. Looking for advice as to whether this is a wise decision or I should look at Minnie Drop's instead. The last thing I want is to be under powered and overweight. Thank-you!
Towing a Micro Minnie 2100BH with '16 4Runner
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grashley
Well-known member
Welcome to the Forum!
First, I looked up the campers on the Winnie web site. The 2100BH is 7000# GVWR (max wt it is designed to carry) which means a hitch wt of 700# - 850#. The Minnie Drop 190BH was 4000# GVWR, for a hitch wt of 400# - 500#.
Salesmen tout the dry wt, but nobody goes camping in an empty camper. When you add all the stuff needed to use the camper, you will be much closer to GVWR. Anything less is a safety margin.
Published hitch wt is totally useless. The real hitch wt MUST be at least 10% of the actual camper wt, not dry wt. Any less will lead to horrid sway issues.
Will the 4Runner handle either one? Open the driver door and look at a yellow banner placard, which will say in part, the maximum weight of passengers and cargo shall not exceed xxxx. This is the max Payload for THAT SUV as it left the factory. It is exactly what it says.
Add up the weight of all passengers, pets, car seats, snacks, and toys to be carried in the 4Runner. Add 80# for a WD hitch. Subtract this from the max payload, and that is the most hitch wt it can handle.
The brake controller is an absolute requirement! The anti sway WD hitch will really help, if not required by the weights.
I am not looking at published tow capacity, as it is not much help. Since you are looking at a BH, I assume this is for a family with kids, so this method of calculating capacity is much better than tow capacity. The weight of everything mentioned above, except 300# of passengers must be deducted from tow capacity, as well as the weight of all factory options.
Keep reading and asking questions!
First, I looked up the campers on the Winnie web site. The 2100BH is 7000# GVWR (max wt it is designed to carry) which means a hitch wt of 700# - 850#. The Minnie Drop 190BH was 4000# GVWR, for a hitch wt of 400# - 500#.
Salesmen tout the dry wt, but nobody goes camping in an empty camper. When you add all the stuff needed to use the camper, you will be much closer to GVWR. Anything less is a safety margin.
Published hitch wt is totally useless. The real hitch wt MUST be at least 10% of the actual camper wt, not dry wt. Any less will lead to horrid sway issues.
Will the 4Runner handle either one? Open the driver door and look at a yellow banner placard, which will say in part, the maximum weight of passengers and cargo shall not exceed xxxx. This is the max Payload for THAT SUV as it left the factory. It is exactly what it says.
Add up the weight of all passengers, pets, car seats, snacks, and toys to be carried in the 4Runner. Add 80# for a WD hitch. Subtract this from the max payload, and that is the most hitch wt it can handle.
The brake controller is an absolute requirement! The anti sway WD hitch will really help, if not required by the weights.
I am not looking at published tow capacity, as it is not much help. Since you are looking at a BH, I assume this is for a family with kids, so this method of calculating capacity is much better than tow capacity. The weight of everything mentioned above, except 300# of passengers must be deducted from tow capacity, as well as the weight of all factory options.
Keep reading and asking questions!
IBTripping
Well-known member
grashley is spot on. Using the info on the driver's door is critical. Let me add that the 4Runner is a unibody construction vehicle. In the best case, it will have a towing capacity of about 5,000 lbs "if it is properly equipped." Therefore, a 7,000 lb trailer will grossly exceed the maximum towing capacity of your Toyota 4Runner. Trying to tow such a heavy and high profile trailer down the interstate would be dangerous and downright scary.
Back2PA
Well-known member
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- Jul 26, 2015
- Posts
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IBTripping said:
A quick search shows that these numbers are exactly correct, 5K max towing
grashley
Well-known member
Here is why to NEVER believe the salesman!
http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,90933.0.html
Also, consider a gently used camper. It will cost less and it should have all of the factory defects already fixed. If you choose to buy new, BEFORE WRITING A CHECK inspect every nook and cranny. Verify all appliances work - on both propane and electric if applicable. Make sure all sinks drain and the gray and black tanks drain properly. etc. etc. We have Pre Delivery Checklists in the library such as this
http://www.rvforum.net/joomla/index.php/15-checklists/69-pre-delivery-checklist-for-trailers
They are much more responsive to correcting those issues if it must be done to make a sale. Once you own it and take it off the lot, those same repairs may take a month or longer. They have no incentive to provide prompt service.
http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,90933.0.html
Also, consider a gently used camper. It will cost less and it should have all of the factory defects already fixed. If you choose to buy new, BEFORE WRITING A CHECK inspect every nook and cranny. Verify all appliances work - on both propane and electric if applicable. Make sure all sinks drain and the gray and black tanks drain properly. etc. etc. We have Pre Delivery Checklists in the library such as this
http://www.rvforum.net/joomla/index.php/15-checklists/69-pre-delivery-checklist-for-trailers
They are much more responsive to correcting those issues if it must be done to make a sale. Once you own it and take it off the lot, those same repairs may take a month or longer. They have no incentive to provide prompt service.
grashley
Well-known member
winona said:
