Low hot water flow

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Bjwinspect

Bjwinspect

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2018
Posts
76
Location
Lynchburg Va
We hit the road today, going from Virginia to Florida.. first night at KOA off of 95 in South Carolina.

I have low hot water flow at all fixtures.  I turned the bypass valve for the heater and got full water flow, but cold.   
I am pretty sure the pipes are fully clean with no debis. 
One thing I did notice when I winterized in December was that I turned the valve to bypass, but still got antifreeze in the water heater.    Tonight at tuened it back and fort several times with no change, either low flow hot, or full flow cold, think this valve may be messed up?  Anyone have any ideas?
 
You probably have a check valve at the output (hot) port of the water heater that is bad.
 
lynnmor said:
You probably have a check valve at the output (hot) port of the water heater that is bad.
Click to expand...

That will be the top pipe. Some manufactures also install one in the inlet pipe to the heater so check both locations.
When you get to FL, remove the top check valve and using a small screwdriver and a hammer, knock out the internals then reinstall it. That will be a temporary fix. You'll need to swap it out with a new one if you intend to winterize the rig ever again.
Check valves are cheap and do not need to be purchased at a RV store. Keep in kind also that there should be a arrow on the side of the check valve no matter what style you get, the arrow must be pointing away from the tank.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-2-in-Brass-FPT-x-MPT-Service-Check-Valve-1-2-SCV/203804502
 
Thanks. I did not know it had these, it looks like I have 2 of them.  (Picture]  Not sure if I am going to be able to find one available immediately.  Think there is any chance if I removed what I have that I could unstick it, or open it up?

I guess the main reason for these is when using antifreeze and bypassing the tank?  Maybe it could be temporarily substituted with a pipe nipple?
 

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Yes, a pipe nipple will work, but even easier as Rene said, just gut the inside of the check valve. The upper one is the most likely culprit, so start with that one.
 
Sorry for asking question that had just had a answer given.. I missed that part when first reading the post..  I will try and gut it later today
 
Thanks for the help.. I pulled the parts out of the upper backflow valve..  have full water pressure.  Wife can wash her hair tonight and everyone is happy  ;) 
 
This is why I like reading this forum!  I never knew about that check valve.  Hopefully I'll remember this thread if I ever encounter the same problem.  Really knowledgeable people who are willing to help!!!  Thank you!
 
Another option to replacing the check valve, particularly if you camp in high mineral content water areas frequently, is to replace the check valve with a standard inline shut off valve. Just remember to shut it off when you turn the bypass on.
 
Good idea,  A inline valve is going to be much more durable than the check valve.. probably will also have less restriction and allow more water flow than the check valve
 
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