ISL exhaust manifold leak

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catblaster said:
  Why have a v8 in a jeep if it cant be heard and felt!!

I couldn't agree more!!!

Best mod I ever did to my JK was put my 6.2 LS in it.

Mike
 
:)) :)) :))  mine is just a stock 350 with th350 trans. however I do have one sitting on the stand that needs to be broke in..350 stroked to 383 w 40 overbore .....should make about 400 conservatively but his is DW's jeep and she needs to stay between the ditches.
  Made a mistake earlier, the new headers are Hedman's not Doug Thorley, Made in the USA !!

    WE dont care how the factory did it !!
 
You guys are makin' me cry.  I gave up all my toys when we went full time.  The Jeep we tow is basically stock, and likely to stay that way(may add a bit of lift after a winter in the desert).
Gone are the 92" Shovelhead Tour Glide, and the '61 F-100 302/C6, as well as my wife's '85 FXEF and our '87 Tour Glide.
I find myself with lots of time on my hands now, as I own nothing that breaks down on a regular basis(although this didn't keep me from having to put a clutch in my Jeep last summer).
 
I examined the exhaust manifold leak more closely and it looks to me like the cause of the leak is part of the gasket is missing on the #4 exhaust port. I can see a gap at that location and can feel the pressure of the exhaust.
Going forward I will have the shop remove the manifold. Check for cracks and decide if I should install the new 2 piece manifold. Can someone tell me how the 2 piece manifold stays together? The 2 pieces slide easily together and apart. What keeps them together and not leaking at the coupling? Also when the shop resurfaces the manifold how do they keep the 2 pieces aligned and after resurfacing how do I make sure the 2 pieces are aligned when installing?
 
The gasket failing around cyl. #4 was the way mine leaked the first time back in 2007 when we first purchased the coach.  Actually I think it was already gone when we bought it but it was not disclosed.  It had 55k miles on it at that time and I noticed the exhaust leak on the first trip out.

I'm surprised that yours doesn't have the 2-piece manifold from the factory as I thought all of them did.  They are merely a slip fit and self align when securing to the head at time of installation.  As far as resurfacing, you can have a machine shop use a milling machine to flatten it back out but I merely use my flat belt sander as it work fast and is just as accurate enough for the task at hand, even though I also have a mill in my shop.  I applied some bluing and ran it across the belt sander until it was flat and bluing removed, then put it in the surface place and checked with a .002" feeler gauge to ensure each section was flat.  Lastly I installed new OEM gaskets using OEM fasteners and torqued to the proper value.  I also installed anti-seize on all of the fasteners to ensure it will come apart if/when it needs to next time. 

Mike
 
Thanks Mike, I didn't mean to imply I didn't have the 2 piece manifold - I do have the 2 piece manifold and I'm pretty sure it came that way from the factory as Cummins shows it as a 2 piece on their website. Why doesn't it leak exhaust gasses at the coupling of the 2 pieces? Also did you use any type of adhesive on the gaskets?
 
timjet said:
Thanks Mike, I didn't mean to imply I didn't have the 2 piece manifold - I do have the 2 piece manifold and I'm pretty sure it came that way from the factory as Cummins shows it as a 2 piece on their website. Why doesn't it leak exhaust gasses at the coupling of the 2 pieces? Also did you use any type of adhesive on the gaskets?

You're welcome, I must have read that wrong then.

For the expansion seam, the way I view it is that the direction of exhaust flow it is flowing over the seam rather than up to it, I hope that makes sense.  Plus I'm sure it expands and seals off a bit once up to operating temperature.  As for adhesive on the gaskets themselves, I did not use any.  I put them on dry right out of the package, the only exception was the use of anti-seize on the fasteners themselves.

Mike
 
I took the coach to PatRicks on Tuesday and they got to it on Wednesday. I was there to watch and answer any questions they may have had. Everything went smoothly. The manifold bolts came out without issue. The mechanic had to remove the pipe from the exhaust side of the turbo that runs to the muffler to facilitate removal of the turbo and hence the manifold. The work took 5 hrs which I thought was fair. The mechanic, Steve, was very knowledgable of diesel engines. There were a dozen or so motor homes on the property so they know motor homes.
Once removed the manifold looked OK. It appeared the leak was do to a failed gasket as I suspected. However I decided to replace the manifold with a new one. The old one could have had a hairline crack that we couldn't see and I felt with the cost of labor it just made sense to replace it.

Upon reassembly the mechanic said the fitting that connects the turbo exhaust to the long pipe that leads to the muffler is leaking exhaust gases and needs to be replaced. He suggested I find an exhaust shop that will weld a new fitting on the existing pipe. He felt that would be cheaper than replacing the entire pipe.
Comments?

Lastly, the coolant line that runs from the top of the turbo (return coolant line, I think) to the expansion tank (tank where you top off coolant with the sight gauge) was damaged due to the exhaust manifold leak. The mechanic felt that it's probably OK, but a failure of that hose could drain coolant and likely would damage or ruin the turbo, so I will replace it. My plan is to remove the hose and take it to a hydraulic shop to make up a new one with the proper fittings. My question and perhaps Mike can answer this; when I remove that hose from the turbo will coolant be under pressure and do I need to plug the fitting at the turbo. Same question for the fitting at the expansion tank.
 
Glad things went smoothly, the fasteners came out without issue and the mechanic did a good job for you.

I'm surprised a heavy truck shop didn't address the exhaust leak/fitting for you as that would have been the time to repair it.  I don't know if I would take it to a regular muffler shop as they are more used to working on passenger vehicles compared to heavy Class 8 trucks/RV's but some may be able to help you.  I would call around and inquire.

The coolant hose will lose a small amount of coolant when you replace it but do it when the system is cold so it won't be under pressure, then just top off the coolant afterwards and especially keep an eye out for an air pocket that could result but being on the way back to the surge tank it is quite unlikely.  IF it were on the side feeding the turbo that would be a different story.


Mike
 
timjet said:
I took the coach to PatRicks on Tuesday and they got to it on Wednesday. I was there to watch and answer any questions they may have had. Everything went smoothly. The manifold bolts came out without issue. The mechanic had to remove the pipe from the exhaust side of the turbo that runs to the muffler to facilitate removal of the turbo and hence the manifold. The work took 5 hrs which I thought was fair. The mechanic, Steve, was very knowledgable of diesel engines. There were a dozen or so motor homes on the property so they know motor homes.

Glad That things went well with PatRicks.  I feel they treat you fairly there and I recommend them to people in Central Florida.
 
Bobtop46 said:
Glad That things went well with PatRicks.  I feel they treat you fairly there and I recommend them to people in Central Florida.
Yes, Bob it went very well. Thanks for that recommendation. They also do other related RV maintenance like house items. I do most of that myself, but if I ever get stuck I know where to go.
 
Thanks Mike, the mechanic said they send out all their muffler work, apparently they aren't set up for that, not sure why, they seem to do most everything else there.

Concerning the coolant, I am assuming it's the return line from the turbo. It is on the top of the turbo and the hose goes to the top of the expansion tank. No sure they call it an expansion tank, but it's the tank you refill the system at.
 

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