Dump Station - Time to Learn and to Stop "Winging" It

Hello, all...and thanks for your time and consideration. 

Over the last couple of years as part-time travel trailer enthusiasts, we've gotten about 5,000 miles, 6 full-time weeks in our camper, and  about a dozen weekends under our belts. 

(For reference...21' Winnebago Micro Minnie TT and primarily state park camping in PA and along the east coast from FLA to ME.) 

I still feel like I'm "winging it" at the dump station and need to get my head wrapped around a few things.

A) We have a persistent and light-to-moderate amount of gray/black water working past the shut-off valves and intruding into the effluent sewer pipe.  I feel badly having that initial small "rush" of waste fly out the moment I remove the end cap...I do my best to catch it in the Rhino Flex tube, but never get it all.  I've learned about the supplemental, twist-on (bayonet), shut-off values that some folks seem to have had luck with.  If I'm using one of those to overcome poor gray/black seals elsewhere, then that device pretty much has to stay on the discharge tube all the time, correct?  Would you recommend a few dabs of super-glue or epoxy to keep it in place and from vibrating off while in travel?  Something else involving carefully drilled holes and cotter pins?  Etc? 

B) I'm still confounded by the hook-shaped hoses on the tall, springy arms at the dump station.  I suppose they're designed that way so that you can point the dirty tube opening away from yourself, hook the U-shaped nozzle around the edge (and actually toward your body), and rinse out the sewer tube while minimizing spray/splash that goes toward you? 

Anyone else struggle with these and prefer a basic, straight hose segment instead of the U-shaped, hook-thingy?  Insights that might make them easier to use?  Have I completely missed the point with these? 

C) To be honest, I've done my end-of-season tank cleaning by coming home from camping, filling the gray/black tanks to about 80% full, and going back to a nearby state park in order to do a final clean-out dump. 

The whole concept of a "black tank flush" just hasn't worked out for me. 

My black tank flush is on the entire opposite side of the RV from the valves and output tube.  No state park that I've ever been to has had a (threaded) hose long enough to go under the entire TT and to thread onto the black tank flush.  I'd bring my own black-water, flush-out hose, but most of the dump stations have only the hook-shaped "rinsers" and not a threaded place to screw a hose onto. 

I'd try one of the "end of effluent pipe" flush-out products (where you re-fill your black tank from outside the TT at the dump station, then let it all rush back out again to clean it), but again...most of the dump stations I've used have only a hook-shaped "rinser" and not the threaded hose that you need to maintain pressure when using one of those products. 

What am I missing?  Is there a better way, or have I been doing OK given the facilities available? 


Thanks, all...I appreciate any input you are able to give. 

Happy and safe travels to all. 

steelmooch said:

A) We have a persistent and light-to-moderate amount of gray/black water working past the shut-off valves and intruding into the effluent sewer pipe.  I feel badly having that initial small "rush" of waste fly out the moment I remove the end cap...I do my best to catch it in the Rhino Flex tube, but never get it all.  I've learned about the supplemental, twist-on (bayonet), shut-off values that some folks seem to have had luck with.  If I'm using one of those to overcome poor gray/black seals elsewhere, then that device pretty much has to stay on the discharge tube all the time, correct?  Would you recommend a few dabs of super-glue or epoxy to keep it in place and from vibrating off while in travel?  Something else involving carefully drilled holes and cotter pins?  Etc?

Click to expand...

It wasn't my idea - I read it on this site - but after installing the twist-on valve, I drilled a pilot hole and installed a small screw behind the tab so it could not fall off.

steelmooch said:

B) I'm still confounded by the hook-shaped hoses on the tall, springy arms at the dump station.  I suppose they're designed that way so that you can point the dirty tube opening away from yourself, hook the U-shaped nozzle around the edge (and actually toward your body), and rinse out the sewer tube while minimizing spray/splash that goes toward you?

Click to expand...

I've actually only encountered straight ones but I suppose the concept with the "hook" is to hold the sewer hose straight up in the air...and keep your mouth closed!

steelmooch said:

C) To be honest, I've done my end-of-season tank cleaning by coming home from camping, filling the gray/black tanks to about 80% full, and going back to a nearby state park in order to do a final clean-out dump. ... What am I missing?  Is there a better way, or have I been doing OK given the facilities available?

Click to expand...

Most of our camping is with full hooks up but we  have been enjoying state parks more and more lately. Two different years our last outing of the year was at a state park and I just felt I could not get things clean enough for winter storage. Our solution was to always camp with full hookups for the last outing.

You do flush the black tank first, then close the black valve and dump the grey tank, right? 

If you want to get the remaining residue out of the hose, raise a section of the hose near the outlet to create a low spot in the hose while leaving the end in the sewer opening.

Then raise the open end at the RV and fill the sewer hose with water.  Remove what's creating the low spot so the water stored in the hose can whoosh into the drain, cleaning the entire diameter of the hose.  Otherwise you're only cleaning a narrow path, just what the relatively small flow from the water can reach.

I?ve spilt a bit of waste a time or two. Most, if not all, dump stations have hose. Just wash everything down as good as you can.

Excellent topic

I did pickup a flush back attachment for my black-water .... the idea is to be able to blow clean water back in through the out-let..... I'm not 100% convinced, but I will give it a try this summer and make sure the DH is standing by with a camera....

If the pipe comes straight out of the black tank, the back-flush adapter should work well. I used one on my two prior TT's. I found it especially helpful for those times when the flow stopped and I thought to myself "no way that's empty". Turn on the hose for 30 seconds and it will bust up the clog at the outlet nicely!

A) Just fix the valves so they work.  You didn't say if you have cable operated or direct pull.  Cable operated valves can spring back if not installed right.  Get a clear cap that has 4 lugs and a garden hose fitting so that you can drain slowly if the valves leak.  Carry some disposable pads to catch drips.  Don't be gluing additional fittings on the end.

B) The hoses at dump stations are designed to splash anything and everything within a 50 foot radius.  I have no good advice on using things that never were designed work in the first place.  Consider using the outside shower for cleanup.

C) Use a campground with full hookups to do a proper flush, you don't need to do a complete flush very often if you keep a fair amount of water in the black tank.  Consider using a down the toilet wand to flush the black tank using either water from your bath faucet or a a hose from outside.  Those add on flushers that attach to the sewer outlet may not do very much.

Those hook-shaped hoses are there to prevent filling the potable water tank with the rinse hose. Yes, people really are that stupid.

The fittings that allow you to connect a garden hose to the sewer cap do nothing as far as rinsing the black tank. Water will drain back out through the sewer hose long before any water actually reaches the black tank.

After dumping, I'll occasionally fill the black tank halfway with fresh water and let it slosh around on the way home. Even after flushing the tank using the built-in system, it's surprising how much additional "stuff" comes out.

HappyWanderer said:

The fittings that allow you to connect a garden hose to the sewer cap do nothing as far as rinsing the black tank. Water will drain back out through the sewer hose long before any water actually reaches the black tank.

Click to expand...

I have a cap with the water hose connector. I think what he is alluding to is with the small cap you can release a small amount of leaked waste as opposed to twisting the entire sewer cap off and having mass amounts of poop and corn and whatever else is in there gushing out on your new white tennis shoes.

Thanks, everyone, for your insights and feedback.    Great forum. 

Oldgator73 said:

I have a cap with the water hose connector. I think what he is alluding to is with the small cap you can release a small amount of leaked waste as opposed to twisting the entire sewer cap off and having mass amounts of poop and corn and whatever else is in there gushing out on your new white tennis shoes.

Click to expand...

YOU are correct!

A.  I have the same issue.  Slow gray tank valve leak.  I have a gate valve installed on the end with a screw to keep in place, as Joe described, and a cap on it.  That totally cured the problem.

B.  No comment

C.  My black tank wash is near the valves, as is the outside shower.  I have a hose instead of a shower, with quick connects on both.  I make sure there is water in the fresh tank and pump is on when I pack up, then use the pump and fresh water tank contents to rinse the black tank.
Open pipe end gate valve, then black valve.  When flow slows, close black valve and turn on flush water.  Run at least 2 or 3 minutes (10 - 15 gal), turn water off and open black valve.  When flow slows, close black valve, open gray valve (if anything remains) and turn on black flush for 1  - 2 minutes to add water to black tank.  Close gray tank, close and cap pipe end valve, cap hose ends and store stinky slinky.