Frank B
Well-known member
We have a 23' lightweight 5th that came with manual leveling legs on the front. The trailer is light, so it has not been an issue cranking it by hand, but I'm getting lazy. I was investigating having an electric motor installed, but got to thinking of the single-purpose nature of such a device, and the cost of having one installed. Then I had an idea. Buy a high-torque cordless drill, and let that do the work.
First, I had to find a gear-driven cordless drill with enough torque to do the job. Fortunately, there are several two-speed models on the market from the major manufacturers, with anywhere from 300 inch pounds of torque, to somewhat close to 600 inch pounds. I tried the Ridgid (Home Depot house brand) for starters, as this 18 volt cordless with two batteries was on sale for $99 (competitors from Milwaukee, Makita, Bosch, etc. go for $300 and up).
Now it was a matter of manufacturing a shaft that would fit my trailer leg mechanism and fit it with a hex end that the drill chuck would not slip on. I went to our local low-volume metal sales outlet, and for $15 got a thick-walled piece of tubing and a piece of 3/8" hex. With a bit of grinding on the points of the hex, I got the hex to go into the end of the pipe, as well as into the end of the drill. A bit of welding, and PRESTO!
The torque of this drill is amazing. It winds that trailer up and down without hardly slowing down. In fact, I'll have to be careful not to damage the mechanism if and when I reach the 'stops' in it's travel.
So, now I not only have a powered set of front legs, I have a good cordless drill to boot.
Frank.
First, I had to find a gear-driven cordless drill with enough torque to do the job. Fortunately, there are several two-speed models on the market from the major manufacturers, with anywhere from 300 inch pounds of torque, to somewhat close to 600 inch pounds. I tried the Ridgid (Home Depot house brand) for starters, as this 18 volt cordless with two batteries was on sale for $99 (competitors from Milwaukee, Makita, Bosch, etc. go for $300 and up).
Now it was a matter of manufacturing a shaft that would fit my trailer leg mechanism and fit it with a hex end that the drill chuck would not slip on. I went to our local low-volume metal sales outlet, and for $15 got a thick-walled piece of tubing and a piece of 3/8" hex. With a bit of grinding on the points of the hex, I got the hex to go into the end of the pipe, as well as into the end of the drill. A bit of welding, and PRESTO!
The torque of this drill is amazing. It winds that trailer up and down without hardly slowing down. In fact, I'll have to be careful not to damage the mechanism if and when I reach the 'stops' in it's travel.
So, now I not only have a powered set of front legs, I have a good cordless drill to boot.
Frank.