Finding what model water Heater I have?

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J

Jey

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Mar 16, 2019
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Hello everyone,

I have my water heater out of my trailer right now and I can?t seem to locate a model number on it. Am I missing something?


I?m attaching a photo of a heater that looks just like mine only mine doesn?t have the rubber piece (I?ve circled in red) that houses the heating element. So I have no idea where the heck my heating element is
 

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Probably an Atwood.  There are generally only two brands,  Atwood or Dometic.
 
Sure looks like a SUBURBAN SW6DE 6

https://basicrv.com/product/new-suburban-sw6de-6-gallon-dsi-electric-ignitionlp-lp-and-gas-rv-motorhome-trailer-water-heater/

 
The picture looks like a Suburban SW6DE, the model without the electric heating element (circled), but with DSI spark ignition propane would be the Suburnan SW6D.  The SW6D is propane only, the SW6DE is propane or electric fired.
 
donn said:
Probably an Atwood.  There are generally only two brands,  Atwood or Dometic.
Click to expand...

Should be Atwood and Suburban not Dometic I believe.

While it's out, remove the drain plug which takes a 1-1/16" socket. Inspect the anode and flush out the tank at the same time.  If the anode is eroded away so that you're seeing a 1/8" metal rod, it needs to be replaced. 
 
There are generally only two brands,  Atwood or Dometic.
Click to expand...
To clarify, Atwood is the Dometic brand. The other major RV water heater brand is Suburban, but back in the day there were a few others, e.g. Mor-Flo and American Standard. Those last two later became the Suburban brand, so may look similar.
 
I think you have a Suburban that is propane only, thus the lack of the black thing covering an electric heating element.
 
Yes that looks like the same one minus the rubber grommet for the element.

I don?t want to be a propane only setup so I need to purchase something else.

I?ve been researching some tankless options but that might be beyond my experience level
 
Jey, Isaac-1's answer in reply 3 had your answer. The heater has no element,  it is propane only.
 
I agree it does NOT look like an Atwood.  (On my atwood the heating element would not be in that photo at all) 

NOTE: Some older propane only units the drain plug is may have been replaced (By a prior owner) by a heat element.. called a Hot or hott rod as I recall.
 
John From Detroit said:
I agree it does NOT look like an Atwood.  (On my atwood the heating element would not be in that photo at all) 

NOTE: Some older propane only units the drain plug is may have been replaced (By a prior owner) by a heat element.. called a Hot or hott rod as I recall.
Click to expand...

Yes and when they did that, their tank was not protected from corrosion because there was no sacrificial anode.  I suppose if you had access to a chunk of zinc or magnesium, could could cut off chunks and put them in the tank.
 
I saw that hot rodd thing on amazon but it had pretty poor reviews on it.


My main concern is going from a propane only to electric I?m sure there are several things in the electrical department that I would need to modify or add.


There is a circuit in the breaker box labeled ?ANT/W HTR? it?s a 15amp breaker. I don?t know if that would suffice for the new electric heater, as I have no idea what it?s responsible for considering my water heater is propane not electric.




 
Jey said:
I saw that hot rodd thing on amazon but it had pretty poor reviews on it.


My main concern is going from a propane only to electric I?m sure there are several things in the electrical department that I would need to modify or add.


There is a circuit in the breaker box labeled ?ANT/W HTR? it?s a 15amp breaker. I don?t know if that would suffice for the new electric heater, as I have no idea what it?s responsible for considering my water heater is propane not electric.
Click to expand...

The Ant/W HTR on the breaker throws me a bit. The Antenna would likely use a 12 volt signal booster. I would check and see if anything is connected to the breaker. If so see if you can trace the wire.

Are you planning on replacing the W-heater with a propane/Electric?
 
I'm still on board with the, don't replace it just because.  We have propane only, mostly long weekend campers, often run to the showerhouse with swimsuit rather than mess with in camper shower.  Camper showers can be water hogs and fill gray tanks quickly.  You have a pretty small trailer, keep your spending down unless necessary.  Propane water heaters work fine and propane is pretty efficient.  You can always change out later, if and when you finish the project, use the camper, and decide it is the right one.  The Anode, just replace it and carry on  :))  (holy cow, now I sound like I'm talking to one of my 'now adult' daughters, lol)  Just kidding, do what's best.  I do see people dump lots of money into projects, and well... you know, it didn't pan out as expected, and the water hog thing, I have 2 daughters that based on what the did / do in shower house and our home bathroom, if they are camping with wife and I, aint no way they are taking a shower in our camper and depleting the water reserve needed for the toilet  ;)
 
I would have to agree with SpencerPJ . If the Gas heater is still working I would also put it back in the camper. The gas will end up doing most of the work.
 
Sorry I didn?t explain better, My concern for changing it goes beyond the propane situation. If I decided to keep this setup I would need to find a way to fix the rust. There?s a spot on the face of the heater that is so rusted it?s soft and feels like I could break through it with my hand. The threading for the anode rod hole is also severely rusted.

(If you haven?t seen my other thread this is a pretty severely water damaged unit that we are rebuilding)

I?ve attached some photos yo give you an idea of the rust. I could continue to use it for a while but I?m concerned about the rust, I do live in FL near the beach so salty air is a constant.


I just thought if I had to change it anyways might as well have the setup I want
 

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That being the case, a replacement may be in order just for the peace of mind.

Not to mention you at a good point to add the AC line if you have room on the AC panel.
 
The surface rust is no biggy.  Internal rust, could lead to a leak, but possibly easy to clean out, some of the electronics may not work if this has been sitting in a damp environment for a long time.  Wondering if you tried it prior to removal? I'm not trying to talk you out of fixing things, well, correctly as you are.  I'm happy you have the right concerns, especially safety concerns.  If you are concerned, I would replace now, because as Giz says, it is indeed a whole lot easier now.
 
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