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Author Topic: Water damage repairs Keystone Mountaineer 30FDK, suggestions/guidance?  (Read 247 times)

Edwinok

  • Posts: 2
As the title states I am searching for suggestions on how to go about repairing water damage my unit (2007 Keys. Mountaineer) that I recently bought. The roof had been and is patched and seems to be from a close visual check to be water tight. There are 2-3 spots that had been patched and they are hollow/not solid underneath...which I expected maybe a couple more non patched areas that were hollow rotted wood underneath. (White rubber) The most damage was at the antenna.

The second exterior issue was with the front end of the unit as one of the patched areas was where the Filon meets the rubber membrane which had leaked at that location, and the corner metal  angle channel that joins the front to the sides and filon. The filon is delaminated from the wood frame underneath and before today’s trip to the hardware store the caulking at the channels which is what I believe to be the last of the active leaking.

The interior damage is mostly panelling that had been water logged  one or two ceiling panels at the antenna crank and the panels at the front at the kitchen wall. The unknown is whether or not any of the framing of the roof or front wall is rotten and needs replaced.

So my thought is that I will need to sooner than later remove and replace exsisting damaged materials on roof...remove rotted roof paneling replace etc new rubber and sealant etc.

Would also like to remove the filon (without cracking it) on the front dry everything out spray for mold and reattach gluing the filon back to the ribbing and seal it all back up.

My thought is to start with everything exterior first then replace things inside after.

Today  was my initial and most thorough so far “inspection and assessment” of the damages so not all ideas and issues are completely together. I am assuming I should get the nose or front done first then tackle the roof or i might have to pull the nose down do the repairs and only button it up til I get to the top then go right into the roof so I can join them together easier.

I am seeking guidance and suggestions any information or insight would be much appreciated! There are a few pictures I will add along I am ready and willing to give any more facts or photos of my unit! Thanks again in advance!

Tried to add photos but wouldn’t do it for some reason so google link here

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1oaY8axKiUmjXcR2gs_xqiWMHcR1Q4eQx
« Last Edit: April 09, 2019, 01:07:43 AM by Edwinok »

Gary RV_Wizard

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No magic - this just takes basic construction skills and time. If you want to do a top quality job, strip off the roof membrane (EPDM rubber) and replace a much as the substrate and framing as needed.  Removing and rebonding the front or rear caps is going to be more challenging because of the formed curves - you will probably have to make some sort of jig and some tools to force the filon skin onto its frame for gluing.   That's mostly a matter for your creativity.
Gary
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Gary Brinck
Summers: Black Mountain, NC
Home: Ocala National Forest, FL

Edwinok

  • Posts: 2
Thanks, do you know of any decent filon alternatives should the current filon crack or tear? I had a crazy or maybe not so crazy idea of using wood and prepping it sort of like a boat. I was looking at alternatives to the rubber sheet for the roof. Both of them are spray or roll on? Roof replacements one is rv flex armor and the other is simply rv armor. From the explainations they give, all the channeling vents ac etc is removed all the old rubber sheet is removed channeling is screwed back in new vents are screwed in any damaged substrate is replaced...taped off at the channeling and the roof is applied 3/16 thick down to the channeling.

Gary RV_Wizard

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You can get a new roof coverings of your choice, e.g. EPDM, TPO, PVC, fiberglass, or aluminum.  Take your pick.

I've not heard of paint-on products that were applied over the wood substrate, but apparently RV Armor does that (successfully?).   Plenty of elastomeric coatings available that would go over the existing EPDO membrane, though.

If you have to strip the whole roof to repair the substrate, not sure there is much advantage to a paint-on product. Applying a glue and a new membrane of some sort isn't all that hard once the roof has been stripped.  However, if you only plan to repair soft spots, the paint on products probably save time & effort.
Gary
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Gary Brinck
Summers: Black Mountain, NC
Home: Ocala National Forest, FL