fixing my unglued frameless window

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KylerLaird

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Apr 16, 2019
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13
Today I went for a short drive and quickly noticed one of my rear windows flapping in the breeze.  I pulled over and got it shut using what I had on hand.

At home, I pulled it apart and found that an aluminum extrusion full of something like mounting tape had come detached from the window.  I thought I'd just chisel it out and replace it but that is no small chore.

I welcome suggestions.
 

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Thanks, Gary.  I'm hoping to avoid replacing the entire window.  It's just the piece that attaches to the bottom that pulls it toward the frame that detached.

I got the bulk of the adhesive out.  Heat helped a bit in the end.  I'm thinking that it might have been butyl tape.  Given the cross-section of the extrusion, it must be kind of thick.  (I tried some outdoor mounting tape and it didn't even fill the channel.)

I'm tempted to mount some screw anchors to the window with glass adhesive and drill corresponding holes in the extrusion.  But for now, I'm contemplating my next move...
 
The crank that operates the arms that slide in the extrusion is called a "torque operator."

https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome_Product_Details.aspx?ProductID=6390&Return=305

Now to find information about the extrusion and how to mount it...
 
I had a frame type vent window that cranked and the glass was frameless even though the window as a whole was not. The glass was bonded to a top metal bar with something like Sikaflex glass adhesive, and the crank torqued that top bar.  I repaired one with more Sikaflex and another using epoxy. Neither came out again.
 
I'm confused. You said it was flapping in the breeze. Was it whole unit or just the movable part of the window?
In your second picture is that the inside retaining ring? Or is it the whole bottom (or top) of the window unit?
 
The second picture is the extrusion that sticks to the bottom of the window.  You can see some sticky residue on the left side.  Underneath and perpendicular is the channel where the rollers on the torque operator arms slide.

I ordered 3/8"x1/8" glazing tape.  I plan to try it tomorrow.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ITO1AN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

The window hinge remains intact.  I thought it might pull off if I rotated it high enough but that's apparently not how it works.
 
Okay. That is what I thought.

I just replaced a Hehr Frameless on my Fleetwood due to it getting shattered my my neighbor. The production drawing that FW sent to me uses a EPDM compression seal that is ridged, about 1/2 inch wide by about 3/16 thick on the outside as well as the sealing ring.  Similar to https://www.trimlok.com/rubber-extrusion/epdm-seal/ribbed

Their drawing says to apply a coat of sealant on the outside of the cut out, a non-wick type. There was nothing on mine that is visible.

I have also read of FW having the holes cut too large then shoving the window into it, only to fail later. Gee, wonder why. If they have done it I'm sure other manufactures have too. That was my first thought when I saw your post. Also the sealing ring not being tightened down properly all the way around allowing the window to fall.  Mine had two small rubber like pieces mounted to the bottom which I took as shims, and putting them on the new window it centered fine.

Why I'm sure every RV manufacture has their own ideas on how to mount the window, it would seem they would follow the window manufactures guideline. IIRC Hehr never says anything about caulking anything.

You might read http://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/flush-mount-window-issue-beware-415033.html about one mans issue.

I know I'm talking about FW bt for the most part it should apply to all.
 
I'm guessing it is probably a butyl based sealant, as it is in many window installations.

I give you big credit for using a RAM mount to secure the loose window temporarily.  Ingenious, and a perfect solution.  Nice!
 
The tape (referenced earlier) seems to work!  I took a short drive and the window seems to be tight.

Here's the essence of what I did.
[list type=decimal]
[*]Lay tape in channel in extrusion.  (sticky side toward extrusion)

[*]Mount extrusion to torque operator arms (rollers in T-slot).

[*]Fully retract torque operator (so that extrusion is away from window).

[*]Pull protective covering from tape.

[*]Pull (with suction cup) or push (from outside) window toward frame.

[*]Extend torque operator, pushing extrusion against window.

[*]Once firmly attached, extend torque operator and allow window to open.

[*]Clamp overnight.

[*]Remove clamps.

[*]Test.
[/list]
 

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Ug.  That didn't work.  It came off on the drive.  Back to the RAM mount...

This tape seemed more like foam.  What was on it seemed more like putty.

Still looking...
 
I bought some Sikaflex when I was buying adhesive tape.  I decided to try that today.  It's *tons* messier.  Oy.

I'm hopeful that it might hold, though.  Sticky stuff.
 
Sikaflex is as strong as it is messy.  I think I'm done with this chore.  I expect that the window would break before that bond does.
 
KylerLaird said:
Sikaflex is as strong as it is messy.  I think I'm done with this chore.  I expect that the window would break before that bond does.

Sounds like we need to test that statement ;D ;D

Glad you got it fixed.

And thanks for sharing the do's and don'ts
 

KylerLaird, I’m having the very same window issue in my 2016 jamboree. Can you give an update and which SikaFlex you ended up using? If it worked for you, I’ll buy and try. If it didn’t work, I know which product not to use​

 

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