Batteries, Charging, Hard/Slow Start

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AnRVAndADog

AnRVAndADog

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Joined
Sep 18, 2018
Posts
380
Location
Port Richey, FL
2004 Winnebago Adventurer 33V:

About a week ago we went driving for a few hours and the RV was hard to start, slow, but eventually started (Hard starting is not normal for this RV). When we got back I parked it, plugged it in and it sat for a week. Yesterday I decided I needed to run the engine (and generator) for a while. Engine was very hard/slow to start. Selected Battery Boost, engine started but still a bit slow to turn over. Chassis battery is maintenance-free (see pic). After checking the Owner's Manual I have some questions:

Solar Charging does NOT charge the chassis battery, correct?

Is 12.5v on the chassis battery low?

Is 14.4v on the chassis battery okay?

Do I need to replace the chassis battery?  Any suggestions?

Thanks.


edit by staff - changed message icon to topic solved
 

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12 .5 volts should be enough to start the engine, as long as the battery isn't heavily sulfated. The other voltage indications indicate that your batteries were being charged when you took those pictures. My 1st reaction was that you probably need to replace the chassis battery, but since you said the engine was still slow to turn over, even when using the battery boost, and the date on the chassis battery is 12/17, I'd start looking for a corroded/bad connection between the battery and the starter.

Kev
 
The real test is to take the battery to a battery dealer with a load tester that they can clip onto it and see how many cranking amps it is supplying.    You can take the whole coach, as they should be able to test it while it is mounted in the coach as long as the terminals are accessible.
 
Unless you or a previous owner added a device to charge the chassis battery while on shore power, it will gradually discharge. Another check is with the engine running, the chassis battery voltage should be around 14.4 volts give or take a tenth of a volt or so. How old are the batteries?
 
Your readings are showing the bulk charge from the solar or the converter or battery charger. Disconnect the batteries and wait an hour or so and check the voltage.
 
John Canfield said:
Unless you or a previous owner added a device to charge the chassis battery while on shore power, it will gradually discharge. Another check is with the engine running, the chassis battery voltage should be around 14.4 volts give or take a tenth of a volt or so. How old are the batteries?
Click to expand...

Don't know how old the coach batteries are but they look reasonably new.

Chassis battery has a sticker showing 12/17 (December 2017)??? If that's what that sticker means... However about 6 months ago I had the RV in the shop and that battery discharged to about zero. Had to put a charger on it to start the engine. I think I remember that those maintenance-free batteries can't handle a complete discharge and if they have one they're toast?

I think I'm going to just have it replaced next week when I get the AC replaced.

Chassis battery recommendations?
 
Isaac-1 said:
The real test is to take the battery to a battery dealer with a load tester that they can clip onto it and see how many cranking amps it is supplying.    You can take the whole coach, as they should be able to test it while it is mounted in the coach as long as the terminals are accessible.
Click to expand...

I already know it's not providing enough cranking amps because it won't turn over the engine, with Boost on the engine starts.
 
Kevin Means said:
12 .5 volts should be enough to start the engine, as long as the battery isn't heavily sulfated. The other voltage indications indicate that your batteries were being charged when you took those pictures. My 1st reaction was that you probably need to replace the chassis battery, but since you said the engine was still slow to turn over, even when using the battery boost, and the date on the chassis battery is 12/17, I'd start looking for a corroded/bad connection between the battery and the starter.
Click to expand...

I'm not a mechanic... (Big surprise...) When I'm not driving this beautiful beast around I drive a 2014 Mustang GT. I turn the key, it leaps into start and says, "What took ya so long, boy?!" So, when it takes a second or two that seems slow to me.
 
John Canfield said:
Unless you or a previous owner added a device to charge the chassis battery while on shore power, it will gradually discharge.
Click to expand...

My 1st thought was to duplicate the Winnebago-supplied solar charging that I have on the coach batteries, which evidently works super-great. That seemed like a great upgrade idea. But that's no longer available and after messing around on web sites all I got was confused.
 
The little 10 watt Winnebago solar panel is basically useless. You want something like a Trik-L-Start or Xantrex Echo~Charge to divert a little charge voltage from the house batteries to the chassis batteries.
 
John Canfield said:
The little 10 watt Winnebago solar panel is basically useless. You want something like a Trik-L-Start or Xantrex Echo~Charge to divert a little charge voltage from the house batteries to the chassis batteries.
Click to expand...

Useless? So what's keeping the house batteries charged up? The shore power line?
 
Yes, shore power through the converter/charger keeps the coach batteries up.  If you are talking about the small panel on top of the AC cover, it is merely a trickle.  More a marketing device. 

On my Adventurer there was a trickle charger connected to chassis battery, powered by shore power. 
 
John Canfield said:
The little 10 watt Winnebago solar panel is basically useless. You want something like a Trik-L-Start or Xantrex Echo~Charge to divert a little charge voltage from the house batteries to the chassis batteries.
Click to expand...

Trik-L-Start looks fantastic! I might even be able to install it myself, in the battery compartment. Next I'll hook up a smart charger to bring it up to full charge and look check to see if it can hold a charge...

Thanks!
 
AnRVAndADog said:
Useless? So what's keeping the house batteries charged up? The shore power line?
Click to expand...

When plugged into shore power your converter should also be charging/maintaining the house batteries. The 10 watt solar provides very little if anything to the house battery. The 10 watts is a drop in the bucket.
 
PancakeBill said:
Yes, shore power through the converter/charger keeps the coach batteries up.  If you are talking about the small panel on top of the AC cover, it is merely a trickle.  More a marketing device.
Click to expand...

Marketing device?! (Dammit...) I'm trying to get my confidence back up in this RV... I thought THAT was charging the house batteries...

PancakeBill said:
On my Adventurer there was a trickle charger connected to chassis battery, powered by shore power.
Click to expand...

Don't have that on mine. But I will get the trickle thing ASAP. In my case I'm either on Generator/Engine or Shorepower 99.99% of the time so challenging the house batteries isn't an issue. Using a trickle charge from house batteries to maintain the chassis battery is perfect for me.

 
Depending how long your park on shore power your chassis battery could show some loss. However it would surprise me if it was enough to cause a dragging starter. I would be more incline to check and clean ALL the cables running to the starter.

First remove the ground cable from the battery and secure it away from the battery. Then remove, clean and reinstall each of the positive cables. Then do the same for the Ground cable.
 
AnRVAndADog said:
Trik-L-Start looks fantastic! I might even be able to install it myself, in the battery compartment. Next I'll hook up a smart charger to bring it up to full charge and look check to see if it can hold a charge...

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Some where around 2002 to 2004 Winnebago started installing the Trik-L-Start as standard equipment in the higher end rigs.  You may already have one installed. 
 
Kevin Means said:
12 .5 volts should be enough to start the engine, as long as the battery isn't heavily sulfated. The other voltage indications indicate that your batteries were being charged when you took those pictures. My 1st reaction was that you probably need to replace the chassis battery, but since you said the engine was still slow to turn over, even when using the battery boost, and the date on the chassis battery is 12/17, I'd start looking for a corroded/bad connection between the battery and the starter.

Kev
Click to expand...
Kevin hit the nail on the head.  12.5V on the chassis battery should be more than enough to start the engine.  In fact 12.2V should be able to start the engine. 

Corrosion or bad connection at the battery or on the way to the starting would cause your problem.  You could have a bad battery as well.
 
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