fridge won't lite

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flyingmike

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Jul 7, 2019
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Took my fridge to get check.  They fixed it and said it ran well.  I reinstalled and it won't lite.  Went through the process bleeding air out of system.  Tried repeatedly to light it to no avail.  Am wondering if the changeover valve on the tanks could be bad. 
 
Does the stove or any other gas appliances light? if so, it is mot the changeover regulator. If not, it likely is, but it might also be the valve on the tank. Is it open? If so, close it, wait a few minutes and then open it very slowly.

What refrigerator is it? Is the refrigerator getting any 12 volt power? Are there any lights on the control panel or inside? Will it eun on 120 Volt?

Joel
 
Yes it has 12 volts and the stove does lite.  It's a dometic.  Leave fridge on all the time and the original problem was it wouldn't relite during the week.  Have a friend that works at a rv place took there and they replaced a sensor and said it works fine.  Put it back in and it won't lite up.
 
Welcome to the forum. Hope you don't mind, I went into your posts and added spaces and capital letters between your sentences. It just makes it easier to read.

What model is it? Does it work on electric 110 Volt AC?
 
There is an inline valve where the gas line connects to the fridge. Plus the 12v wiring there.  If it works in the shop, there is something messed up with your installation.
 
If my Dometic refer sits for a while I have to go outside, pull the cover, bleed out the propane line at the gas valve in the refer.  Somehow the propane is leaking out and being replaced with air.

 
I'm having the same issue with my Thor Sprinter 24SS.  I have an induction stove and am unable to bleed the fridge lines.  This is another item I will need to add to my pre-trip checklist.  Does anyone have a better solution?  Add a bleeder valve on the supply line?
 
Yikes, I always need to turn on my propane stove to get the propane close to refer.  I guess if I were you, based on how easy, loosen up connection with wrench on the rear of refer (that will probably develop a leak over time), or install bleeder close by.  Do be cautious, you don't want a leak back there.
 
It will take several start sequences to get gas to the fridge valve with air in the service line. You could start the water heater to expedite the process. Once gas gets to the valve, ignition should continue if your systems are working properly.

Adding a bleeder valve could be done but with extreme caution and positive venting to the exterior of the RV and used with other precautions. I would not recommend installing a bleeder valve.

How many ignition attempts does it take for the fridge to lite after sitting?
 
A couple possible solutions:

1.  Don't turn off the gas at the bottle, thus keeping gas in the lines.

2. Find out how air is getting in and fix it. The system is supposed to be airtight, so you have a leak somewhere.

3. Check the fridge gas valve for a port you could bleed. They often have one for use in a pressure check
 
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