I just bought a toy hauler. A 2009 Funseeker. Great camper. After the first use the Dometic 2652 fridge will not power on. None of the lights on the interior eyebrow board will turn on. (Auto and Gas). I replaced the control board on the back of the fridge. no dice. So I replaced the electronic eyebrow board. Still no dice. I have confirmed I have both 12 volt power and 120Volt power. So what next?
Dometic 2652 will not power on
- Thread starter gregp229
- Start date
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darsben
Well-known member
A service manual is at
https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/TO/tobiz777/2013-11-06_000553_rv_newdometicrefrigeratormanual.pdf
and more info at http://www.dave78chieftain.com/RVFridgeLibrary/Dometic/RM2612_tips.pdf.
Sorry I cannot be of much more help.
The only thing is if the 12 volt voltage is really low the fridge will not work
https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/TO/tobiz777/2013-11-06_000553_rv_newdometicrefrigeratormanual.pdf
and more info at http://www.dave78chieftain.com/RVFridgeLibrary/Dometic/RM2612_tips.pdf.
Sorry I cannot be of much more help.
The only thing is if the 12 volt voltage is really low the fridge will not work
Rene T
Site Team
Probably the worst thing you've done is to just throw parts into it hoping it fixes your problem. This is the right place to come with a issue.
It wasn't actually just throwing parts although it feels like that now. I did research, and the probability was, I had it right. Only it wasn't. Twice. I am 99% confident I have it narrowed down to the therma fuse, which I found on this forum in another thread. I tested it and it is not passing electricity. Another one is on the way.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
If the thermofuse is open, your next problem is to determine why. Except for the unlikely possibility of the fuse itself failing, odds are it simply did its job and opened when the boiler perc tube got excessively hot. If so, the new one will go open as well as soon as the boiler heats up enough. The purpose of the thermofuse is to prevent fires caused by overheated boilers. The cooling unit boiler overheats if the coolant has leaked out and no longer circulates properly.
Lou Schneider
Site Team
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2005
- Posts
- 13,231
Do you see any yellow deposits around the coils on the back of the refrigerator or smell ammonia? Those are the signs of a leak, although it's possible for the leak to be where you can't see the residue.
It's possible for the boiler to run dry and overheat without a leak if the refrigerator was operated off-level so the refrigerant was unable to flow back to the boiler. In this case replacing the thermofuse may let the refrigerator start working again. Working means producing cold, not just lighting the flame or turning on the controls.
But even if it does start working, there's a good chance that letting the boiler run dry has produced dry flakes that will plug up the cooling system and make the boiler run overheat and fail again.
It's possible for the boiler to run dry and overheat without a leak if the refrigerator was operated off-level so the refrigerant was unable to flow back to the boiler. In this case replacing the thermofuse may let the refrigerator start working again. Working means producing cold, not just lighting the flame or turning on the controls.
But even if it does start working, there's a good chance that letting the boiler run dry has produced dry flakes that will plug up the cooling system and make the boiler run overheat and fail again.
Update: I replaced the thermofuse and closely monitored throughout the weekend. The refrigerator got good and cold. It managed to freeze ice cubes in the freezer and stuff in the fridge was also cold. The only thing I can think of that caused the fuse to fail in the first place is it was extremely hot when we left for camping. I do not see any yellow residue anywhere, so hopefully I am out of the woods on this one. (pun intended, sort of 
)
)
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
The presence of the yellow powder is conclusive proof of a leak, but unfortunately the lack of the yellow proves nothing at all. Only a relative small percentage of cooling unit leak failures ever show the yellow dust.
Usually, if there was a leak-induced thermal fuse failure, the problem repeats quickly, like within a few hours. Hopefully yours is ok.
Usually, if there was a leak-induced thermal fuse failure, the problem repeats quickly, like within a few hours. Hopefully yours is ok.
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