Tailgate clearance needed while towing a TT

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Texdan25

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2014
Posts
58
Location
Spring Branch Tx
I would like to haul my golf cart in my truck bed (Chevy 2500 HD with 6-1/2 bed) while towing my travel trailer and the only way I can do it is for the tailgate to be down as the back wheels sit on it appx. 8".  I currently have about 2" clearance between the tailgate and electric tongue jack.  If I change out my 12" shank with an 18" one I will then have about 8" of clearance.  Would this be enough to be able to make 90 degree turns without hitting the jack?  Any other ideas?  A hitch extender won't work as it reduces the hitch towing capacity.  Thanks.
 
I don't think that's enough, but you have to measure.  Put the extended shank ball in (or simulate it with a board and a nail) and put a cord with a loop on one end over the ball location.  Holding the cord at the 8" clearance point, pull it taut an swing to the side.  That's equivalent to the position of the trailer jack post.  If during the side-swing the 8" distance point intersects with the tailgate, the distance is too short. 

How much clearance distance do you have now, with 12" shank and tailgate up?  How close does the jack post come to the back of the truck in a turn? I'll bet its fairly close at a sharp angle.
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
I don't think that's enough, but you have to measure.  Put the extended shank ball in (or simulate it with a board and a nail) and put a cord with a loop on one end over the ball location.  Holding the cord at the 8" clearance point, pull it taut an swing to the side.  That's equivalent to the position of the trailer jack post.  If during the side-swing the 8" distance point intersects with the tailgate, the distance is too short. 

How much clearance distance do you have now, with 12" shank and tailgate up?  How close does the jack post come to the back of the truck in a turn? I'll bet its fairly close at a sharp angle.
Thanks Gary.  Not quite following you with the board and nail simulation.  Are you saying that I put the WD hitch on the truck?  And where does the nail come into play?  I don't know my current clearance, will have to go hook up the trailer and measure?  I do a pretty good jackknife when trying to back it into my driveway when preparing for a trip.
 
I was suggesting that you make a simulated 18" shank ball mount using a 2.5"x2.5" board or piece of scrap metal. The nail is to establish the point where the hitch ball would normally be and give you a place for the loop on the measuring cord.  The simulator board is for use if you don't already have the 18" shank ball mount on hand to try.  If you have the 18" ball mount, just put it on the truck and place the cord loop over the ball. No need for board or nail.

The whole idea of the cord is to give a way to measure where the hitch post would be without hooking up the trailer and actually making a sharp turn. The looped cord simulates the trailer tongue, with the loop as the ball coupler and 8" point on the cord as the jack post location.
Yes, hook up the trailer and measure. However, you know bout what the distance is: it's the width of the tailgate when down, plus 2". Probably around 20-22" total.  You are proposing to replace that with a mere 8" clearance and that probably is not enough.
 
Thanks Gary.  I doubt if it will be enough but saw a few posts from other folks who used the 18" shank with tailgate down and said it worked for them.  Only true test I would think is to get a shank and try it out but I'm gonna try what you suggest first.  Appreciate the feedback!
 
lavarock1210 said:
The design might work but it would be too lightweight for my application as I need to drive my golf cart onto the truck using ramps so even using support bars instead of cables I don't think these are made for that kind of load.  Plus the rear wheels would be setting on it appx. 8 inches.  I wonder if there are stronger ones made of the same design?
 
Texdan25 said:
Thanks Gary.  I doubt if it will be enough but saw a few posts from other folks who used the 18" shank with tailgate down and said it worked for them.  Only true test I would think is to get a shank and try it out but I'm gonna try what you suggest first.  Appreciate the feedback!
Well, I tried the 'stick and string' test, actually modified it a little and just did my measuring from the ball with the hitch installed using a stick and nail.  Anyhow the best I could tell I would be able to turn appx. 70 degrees (eyeball guess) before hitting the tailgate.  I don't know what my max turning degree currently is, I doubt if anyone turns 90 degrees with a bumper pull?
 
Texdan25 said:
The design might work but it would be too lightweight for my application as I need to drive my golf cart onto the truck using ramps so even using support bars instead of cables I don't think these are made for that kind of load.  Plus the rear wheels would be setting on it appx. 8 inches.  I wonder if there are stronger ones made of the same design?

Sorry I did not notice what the tailgate was made from.  The one I have on my truck is an all steel tailgate and I am sure it could handle the golf cart.

Here is a steel one.

https://www.carid.com/custom-flow/elite-series-5th-wheel-tailgate.html
 
I have been considering the same thing for a while.  I may try laying a small platform in the bed of my truck to raise the golf cart up.  My plan will be to get the bumper of the cart to be higher than the tailgate.  I'm still researching golf carts that will fit with Ram Boxes (48" max width).
 
lavarock1210 said:
Sorry I did not notice what the tailgate was made from.  The one I have on my truck is an all steel tailgate and I am sure it could handle the golf cart.

Here is a steel one.

https://www.carid.com/custom-flow/elite-series-5th-wheel-tailgate.html
That looks a lot stronger but no info on the website.  Trying to contact them now.  So have you ever put a load on yours and if so how much? Thanks.
 
OBX said:
I have been considering the same thing for a while.  I may try laying a small platform in the bed of my truck to raise the golf cart up.  My plan will be to get the bumper of the cart to be higher than the tailgate.  I'm still researching golf carts that will fit with Ram Boxes (48" max width).
You might want to look into this:  https://www.rizerback.com/  . We talked with them and they said it would move the rear tire forward about 8".  But doesn't look like a golf cart would work very well, they are made mainly for ATV's.
 
lavarock1210 said:
Sorry I did not notice what the tailgate was made from.  The one I have on my truck is an all steel tailgate and I am sure it could handle the golf cart.

Here is a steel one.

https://www.carid.com/custom-flow/elite-series-5th-wheel-tailgate.html
Well, I 'chatted' with Carid and found out the steel tailgate is rated for 200# which is 100# higher than the other lightweight ones.  Not sure how much weight would actually be put on it while driving up the ramp and how much with the 2 rear tires sitting on the ramp.  Gotta do more research!  Update:  just for grins I tried to pick up the rear of the golf cart, no go.  However I was able to pick up the front.  I'm guessing then engine weight is more toward the back, plus it has the back seats and platform and don't know how much they weigh.
 
Here is a crazy, off the wall idea.  Can you remove the tailgate and secure a pair of ramps in the bed of the truck with a 10" overhang.  Run the golf cart onto those ramps.  The extra 2" gives room for a tie down point.  There is no full length tailgate to interfere with turns.  Hopefully, the ramp extension will miss the jack.
 
grashley said:
Here is a crazy, off the wall idea.  Can you remove the tailgate and secure a pair of ramps in the bed of the truck with a 10" overhang.  Run the golf cart onto those ramps.  The extra 2" gives room for a tie down point.  There is no full length tailgate to interfere with turns.  Hopefully, the ramp extension will miss the jack.
'
Great minds think alike!  A while back I made a rack out of 2x8x86" long and secured them to the front bed tie downs.  I also had cross boards to sturdy it up.  I then ran the cart onto the truck.  The wheels hung off the back about 10" and gave me plenty of clearance but it just didn't look safe having that much of the cart hanging off the back on boards.  I suppose I could put 4x4's under them and sitting on the bumper but my wife nixed the whole idea.  Wish I had taken a picture before disassembling the whole thing.
 
Texdan25 said:
'
Great minds think alike!  A while back I made a rack out of 2x8x86" long and secured them to the front bed tie downs.  I also had cross boards to sturdy it up.  I then ran the cart onto the truck.  The wheels hung off the back about 10" and gave me plenty of clearance but it just didn't look safe having that much of the cart hanging off the back on boards.  I suppose I could put 4x4's under them and sitting on the bumper but my wife nixed the whole idea.  Wish I had taken a picture before disassembling the whole thing.

If your boards run all the way up to the front of the bed and you could bolt them down to the bed, back the cart, rear end 1st, then all the weight or most of the weight would be  on the boards in the front of the bed, and the light end would be on the overhang of 10".
 
Texdan25 said:
Well, I 'chatted' with Carid and found out the steel tailgate is rated for 200# which is 100# higher than the other lightweight ones.  Not sure how much weight would actually be put on it while driving up the ramp and how much with the 2 rear tires sitting on the ramp.  Gotta do more research!  Update:  just for grins I tried to pick up the rear of the golf cart, no go.  However I was able to pick up the front.  I'm guessing then engine weight is more toward the back, plus it has the back seats and platform and don't know how much they weigh.

What is the weight rating of the factory tailgate?  From looking at the tailgate system it appears to me the limiting factor would be the steel cables.  The 5 th wheel tailgate uses the same cables that the factory tailgate used.
 
Rene T said:
If your boards run all the way up to the front of the bed and you could bolt them down to the bed, back the cart, rear end 1st, then all the weight or most of the weight would be  on the boards in the front of the bed, and the light end would be on the overhang of 10".

Definitely need to consider this as an option.
 
lavarock1210 said:
What is the weight rating of the factory tailgate?  From looking at the tailgate system it appears to me the limiting factor would be the steel cables.  The 5 th wheel tailgate uses the same cables that the factory tailgate used.
  Not sure the weight of the factory tailgate.  I would not use the factory cables but instead would by the bars from DG industries.
 
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