Tailgate clearance needed while towing a TT

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Well here's an update:

Bought an 18" extended shank and hooked up the trailer to test in our storage unit area.  It gave me about 6" of clearance between the tailgate and trailer jack.  Was able to make a 90 degree turn and still had appx. 2" of clearance with the jack but propane tank cover was right against the tailgate.  I then had a brainstorm (for me anyhow).  I removed the tanks and there's plenty of clearance.  2nd 'brainstorm' is that since the jack is easily removable with 3 bolts why do I need a longer shank, why not just use the regular 12" shank, load the golf cart, hook up the trailer, and unbolt and lay down the jack and remove the tanks leaving a wide open space on the front of the trailer?  Thinking about buying a manual jack that could just swing up so that I don't have to remove/install the power jack each time.  Anyone think of any 'negatives' for doing this approach?
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
Tank covers are cosmetic - do you have enough clearance with the tanks in place but cover removed?
No, tanks were right against the cover.  But very easy to remove and re-install.  Biggest concern now is the jack with my normal 12" shank.  Also will be buying a winch as I'm not crazy about driving a golf cart up the ramps.  900# plus another 200# for me.  Any tips on installing a winch in the front of the truck bed?  I'm thinking a 2x8/10/12 running across the front of bed with winch bolted on but gotta figure out how to attach the board to the front tie-downs (or whatever they are called).  Any ideas?
 
The winch should work fine.  Is there clearance to bolt the board or metal mounting bracket to the bed?  (Clearance to reach between cab and bed to attach bolts.)  Remember this is adding weight to the truck, but with the 2500, you should have enough payload.

DOWN SIDE  With tanks removed, you can not run the refrigerator while traveling.
The swing back jack worked fine on my pop up with 200 # tongue wt.  Fairly easy to turn, but not as convenient as the electric!
 
grashley said:
The winch should work fine.  Is there clearance to bolt the board or metal mounting bracket to the bed?  (Clearance to reach between cab and bed to attach bolts.)  Remember this is adding weight to the truck, but with the 2500, you should have enough payload.

DOWN SIDE  With tanks removed, you can not run the refrigerator while traveling.
The swing back jack worked fine on my pop up with 200 # tongue wt.  Fairly easy to turn, but not as convenient as the electric!
I didn't think of that, I will have to check the clearance but good idea. And payload is not a concern. No big deal about the frig. as we don't do that anyhow.  As for jacks I know some TT's are sold with manual jacks but I don't know what their tongue weights are, I'm wondering if a 6-800 TW would be able to be raised manually?  Most manual jacks I am seeing have a 1000# capacity and 10" lift, not sure how much lift I need so gotta check my power jack.  Definitely not as convenient but if it works and buys me clearance I could live with that as we only take our golf cart 1-2 times per year when we go to the beach.  Thanks for the comments!
 
10" lift, barely ok for the beach but not most of these campgrounds I end up in.  I wouldn't feel that comfortable with those weigh numbers either. If it were me, I would simply bolt and unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the electric jack, put a nice electric plug on it, and worry about getting that golf cart secured.

I also came across this winch idea, looks interesting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MK8Idd6kqAc

 
SpencerPJ said:
10" lift, barely ok for the beach but not most of these campgrounds I end up in.  I wouldn't feel that comfortable with those weigh numbers either. If it were me, I would simply bolt and unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the electric jack, put a nice electric plug on it, and worry about getting that golf cart secured.

I also came across this winch idea, looks interesting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MK8Idd6kqAc
Thanks for the comments.  I don't have a sliding back window so that winch idea wouldn't work, but I figure if I put a winch on the cart and not the truck I could put a chain across the front of the bed to hook on to but I'm still leaning toward putting the winch in the truck bed.  Then have to figure out what to tie on to on the front of the cart (EZGO S4 gasser), don't know if the brush guard is strong enough?
As for the jack, still not sure what to do, never thought about installing a plug, was figuring I could just leave wiring attached and lay the jack across the front of the TT.  But will look into that option too.  Thanks for ideas.
 
A couple times a year, you might just get a manual come along.  A winch much better, but $$.
 
SpencerPJ said:
A couple times a year, you might just get a manual come along.  A winch much better, but $$.
I was thinking of that too or perhaps a boat winch, they are rated for 1500#.  Would still have to figure out how to mount it and not sure if it would work winching a golf cart up the ramps.
 
Texdan25 said:
Would still have to figure out how to mount it and not sure if it would work winching a golf cart up the ramps.
Do the rails still have those 2"x3" holes in them?  Maybe the front slots, put wood in each side, then take a landscape timber and throw it across.  That should be solid enough to pull a rolling golf cart into the bed.  Seems a come along or winch would work better than the boat winch for the leverage, but a younger healthy man, a boat winch would work too.  ;)  A come along could have other uses in life as well  :) 
 
SpencerPJ said:
Do the rails still have those 2"x3" holes in them?  Maybe the front slots, put wood in each side, then take a landscape timber and throw it across.  That should be solid enough to pull a rolling golf cart into the bed.  Seems a come along or winch would work better than the boat winch for the leverage, but a younger healthy man, a boat winch would work too.  ;)  A come along could have other uses in life as well  :)
Hey, that might just work Spencer!  Didn't think of that spot but should have since I built a wooden kayak rack a while back to insert into those holes (have since broken down and bought a real one).  Will have to go dicker with that and see if it would work.

Still don't know which way to go for a winch, not sure of you're definition of 'younger healthy man', I'm 65 and in decent shape though.  Have a boat and winching can be a pain for sure, again don't know how much it would take to winch up a 900# golf cart.  I actually think I have a come-along somewhere so might be able to play with that too.  Thanks for the tips!
 
A Quick look at e trailer.com shows MANY manual tongue jacks  with capacities up to 8,000# !!!  Prices from $30 to ridiculous.  Many, but not all are swivel style.  I saw 15" lift on a 3000# swivel jack.

Like Spencer said, a simple plug similar to a 4 wire flat trailer plug would work well for disconnecting the power jack for safer remote storage.  Very simple to connect / disconnect.

I love the idea of a board across the top of the bed, attached to the stake bed holes!  :)
 
Texdan25 said:
not sure of you're definition of 'younger healthy man', I'm 65 and in decent shape though.
:D :D :D
You sound capable and determined to make this work, and it will  :))
Once you find a combination that works, post a picture if you can. 
 
I've had another thought, if I use a come along to get the cart up the ramps why not just use a chain across the front of the bed attached to the 2 tie downs and attach the come along to the middle of the chain?  Sounds easy peasy to me?
 
I've got a buddy with a winch on the front of his 4x4 truck.  Also has a ladder rack in the bed.  He attached a snatch block to the front of the ladder rack, runs the winch line up through the pulley, over the top of the truck(another snatch block above the back of the cab) and down to pull his 4 wheeler up ramps into the  bed of his truck.
 

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