toad lighting/wiring question

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baadpuppy

baadpuppy

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Jul 22, 2007
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ESVA
I've got a 1998 toyota corolla ce manual, with the roadmaster xl brackets installed.  I have the roadmaster tracker towbar on order, as the cheap towbar I got just won't fit to the xl brackets without lots of fabrication.  Hopefully the towbar will arrive soon.

I'm in the process of trying to purchase a class A motorhome, and would drive the toyota to go get it then tow the toyota with the motorhome to get home.

I've got some cheap mag-mount tail/turn lights from rvtoyoutlet that I can use to make sure I have lighting, but long term I want something cleaner and less likely to scratch my paint.

I've seen references to being able to install hi power diodes and perhaps other "stuff" to make this work.  I can imagine how to do that having a bit of a background in electronics.  What I was wondering was if anyone made a kit that just plugged in and worked without having to do all the engineering?  For example, the rear wiring harness in my toyota has a connector point that could have something installed between the two connectors and have access to all the rear lighting circuits.  Does such a beast exist?  Or am I stuck buying a generic kit and engineering it myself?

Thanks!
jim
 
Use of diodes is one way and is the approach I use.  These diode kits are usually available at RV and Trailer supply stores.  The second approach is to add an additional light bulb in the tail light assembly and wire direct to the second light bulb.  These kits are also available at the same suppliers mentioned above.  Instructions for installing is usually on the package.
 
The diodes are not difficult to install and in any case, you will have to run a cable from the front of the vehicle to the trunk compartment to activate the tail/brake/stop lights so there is always some "engineering" involved.  If you have the room, the separate bulb solution is the best and easiest to wire, but using diodes is the most common.  The diode kits come with instructions and schematics.  I don't know of any device that would just plug into the existing wiring harness.
 
I recently had a set installed along with the base plate on our Jeep.  Total cost 80 bucks for the kit with the diodes,  and 180 for the installation of base plate and including wiring up the brake buddy.  Wasn't worth the effort for me to attempt it and cause damage. Works like a charm.  Now my have to wind up selling it all.  If health don't improve soon.
 
How do you get the power from the motor home to the toad lights without wires?
 
Ned,

I have no idea how I came up with that. Must have had a real brain fart or was thinking of something else when I replied  :-[  I removed the post that made no sense.
 
For example, the rear wiring harness in my toyota has a connector point that could have something installed between the two connectors and have access to all the rear lighting circuits.  Does such a beast exist?
Click to expand...
Very unlikely. At best, you would have access to the individual wires at that point for tapping into. From there you would run the wires to the diodes and the front connector on the Toyota for plugging the coach into. Having access to the wiring harness connector would save you from having to run individual wires from the front connector to the rear lights.
 
I have always just run the wires from the front connector on the car to the lights on the back.  I just feel better doing it that way rather than searching out the vehicle wiring at the front of the toad.  Also makes for easier troubleshooting if there is ever a problem with the lights.
 
He didn't say but I suspect the connector he's referring to is in the rear of the car, so cable needs to be run in any event.
 
Wonder why they give you 30 or so feet of wiring, in the kit, if you're not supposed to use it.. I'd suppose you'd have to tap into the lines more than once without a direct line.
 
What I was envisioning was something along the lines of the trailer wiring kits you can get for cars/trucks these days.  Basically, you locate the rear lighting harness connecter in the rear of the vehicle, unplug it, plug in the wiring kit between the two connectors, then route your wiring out to your hitch area.  No splicing or cutting needed.  I like the idea of being able to disconnect and return the vehicle to stock condition with minimum effort.

You have all confirmed what my own searching had determined... such a thing doesn't exist for a toad.

So, I'll go the tried and true route and just use a kit and route the wires back to the rear of the vehicle.

Any recommendation on *which* kit?

Just to clarify, I haven't actually physically found that connector in my car, just saw it in the wiring diagram.  I usually don't pop panels until I start doing the actual work.  The service manual indicates this connector is in the trunk area.  :D

Thanks again to everyone,
jim
 
The diode kit will depend on how your tail/stop/directional lights are wired and if the stop/directional lamps are a single bulb or dual bulb/filaments.  The kits describe how the diodes are to be wired for each case.  Any hitch shop or RV store should have the kits.  The rest is just wire, a socket to mount on the front of the towed, and the appropriate cable to connect to the motorhome.
 
There are several different kits, at least where I bought mine  At a RV/hitch dealer.  they installed and I'm happy.
 
Just to clarify, I haven't actually physically found that connector in my car, just saw it in the wiring diagram.
Click to expand...
My mistake - I understood you to mean you had found a connector under the dash or some other convenient place :-\ In some cases you can find the under-dash wires that run to the rear lights thru the door sills/rocker panels, or however they do it. That would be my first choice, but not always possible. Then you have to run the 5-conductor cable from the front to the rear yourself. 
 
Karl said:
My mistake - I understood you to mean you had found a connector under the dash or some other convenient place :-\ In some cases you can find the under-dash wires that run to the rear lights thru the door sills/rocker panels, or however they do it. That would be my first choice, but not always possible. Then you have to run the 5-conductor cable from the front to the rear yourself. 
Click to expand...

Well, finally got that done.  Karl, you were right, there was a connector under the dash in the driver side kick plate that provided access to all the wires I need.  Dad had some 12V diodes laying around, and I found some 4 conductor 18 gauge wire and got all the interior wiring finished today.  The wire bundle is routed through the firewall and coiled up under the hood where it won't come loose.

Tuesday, the connector I ordered should be here, and I can finish routing to the final location once I figure out where that'll be.

Thanks again for all the helpful advice everyone.  :)
jim
 
good job on the DIY install!!!! always nice to DIY

but a little caution for all who are reading this thread:

On many newer cars if doing diodes inline with the factory OEM wiring, it might be advised to connect directly at the lights. I say this because many cars are being built with additional modules and circuits downstream of the factory fuse/relay boxes example rear park lamp modules on fords). On some of the new autos messing with the wiring can send false trouble codes, or mess with other systems in the auto. if you dont know whats downstream of the wire in question it would be good practice to connect @ the light

a 1998 toyota is prolly no problem, however a 2006 ford,nissan, etc.........these cars have some bells and whistles.

Happy Towing!

Steve
 
Good advice Steve.  If not sure it doesn't cost too much time or money to install the diodes and connect right at the tail lights.
 
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