Advice about trailer hitch extension

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PapaJerry69

Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2019
Posts
21
Location
Southeast Virginia
With my current setup, the tailgate of the truck cannot open completely because it will strike the tongue jack.  The device I saw was a Curtis 8" tube extender.  With all other considerations for weight distribution in the positive before adding this, will this extension cause any problems? I'm currently carrying 700 lbs on ball (12% of trailer weight) using weight distribution hitch.

Thanks in advance.
Jerry
 
The use of an extension de-ratres your hitch a bit. How much I do not know but that would be my only major concern.  A 1000 tongue weight rated hitch can quickly become a 500 or 250 pound rated hitch due to torque.

That said. the most likely outcome is success.. Oh, what about a different tailgate. one with as 5th wheel "Notch" in it would that hit the jack????s  You know hte ----____---- type
 
No way would I use an extender for that circumstance.  I only would use one to extend a lighter load beyond a spare tire, like for a bike rack on the back of a Jeep etc. 
 
They make longer shanks for that reason. Depending on make of your weight distribution hitch you should be able to purchase a longer shank such as Draw-Tite Reese 3214 Reese Weight Distributing Hitch Bar - 14"
 
I had two problems with opening my tail gate:  First, like the OP's problem, my tailgate hits the power tongue jack motor and second when the tail gate is opened all the way it will hit the hitch ball lock on the trailer tongue.  Here is what solved those for me:  I found that if I run the tongue jack down and lift the trailer tongue just a little the tailgate now misses the jack motor.  I don't open my tailgate often when hitched up so this is no problem.  On the second problem, there are two posts on the truck that serve the following purposes; the lower post, on each side where the tailgate closes, is where the cables connect that stop the tailgate from opening any further than level with the truck bed.  The top post on each side is where the tailgate latches latch when closed.  If you open the tailgate and lift it a little to get slack in the cables, you can then detach the cables from the lower post and attach them to the upper post.  That does not interfere with the latching of the tailgate.  Now when you open the tailgate the cables stop it a few degrees before it is level with the truck bed and before it hits the trailer tongue ball latch on my rig.  I leave the cables in this position all the time.  Works for me!  My truck is a Ram but I think this will work on most if not all pickups.
 
Does the trailer sit level? Can you lower the ball? Maybe just remove the tailgate>
 
As Don C said, get a longer shank. Simple. My Andersen came with a long shank with two holes. I called to make sure and using the ?long? hole does not de-rate the 14,000# hitch. Tailgate clears the electric jack just fine.
 
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